362 Hp 306 Maf/inj/tb Combo

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 306N/A, May 1, 2013.

  1. Whats the best maf, inj size, t/b " parts/combo" to go with on a 362 hp n/a 306 89 stang... well 87 but converted to 89
  2. You're making that HP now???
  3. if your truely making 362HP out of a 306 now...

    id go with a set of 30lb injectors 90mm MAF and the biggest damn throttle body you can bolt to your intake...

    if you want to build a 362HP 306... id go carbed
  4. it made 362 on a dyno with a carb. now just put in car with the stocj maf and inj
    i know i have to upgrade maf but what make is best?
  5. Pro m is by far the best maf
    toolow91 likes this.
  6. Now is that bhp or rwhp?
  7. my tuner has always had good luck with the 90mm lightning maf... easy to find and pretty cheap.

    just curious what heads intake and what kinda compression you running to make that power out of a 306?
  8. 362 on a engine dyno with stock headers.. now its in the car with stock maf/ inj computer but have a cobra intake.. motor has stock bottom end afr 165 prob pistons scat rods small comp cam that the computer will read just said might need injectors .. so the engine is making thus power without a real power adder just good flowing combos.. so want a good upgrade maf that i wont have to do nothing to the computer... but ut does run good with the stock mass and inj but its prob only allowung 300 hp from that set up if im lucky
  9. and 91 octane fuel
  10. My 410 engine dyno is get 42s but you should probably get 36s
  11. Maybe I don't know what I'm talking about - it's OK if you say so too. but 362HP with the parts that you list sounds DARN good! You give me inspiration for my 306 equipped street car - if all said is true. I have the AFR165 Heads; not on yet.

    It's a good possibility if you are not careful, you could end up spending a boat load more money on parts and loosing HP in-the-same. I've seen that happen more than once...

    Choose your next moves carefully, is my advice. So far so good -asking around before you jump.

    Can't wait to hear responses....

    EDIT: IMO 362HP with the Carb on a 306 and basically heads is a combination to desire - some parts just work well together ...
  12. That is true.. i was impressed to, big trick is longer rods frees up power. shhh lol
    had to go efi cause i live to close to the dragway MTO is always pulling people over

    Anyone know if bbk mass air and 30 lb injectors would mess up my comuter?
  13. That # is reasonable an engine dyno. Considering the a drive train loss of 15% and the optimal conditions dynos usually provide. I had a stock bottom end 302 in my 95 dyno 306 on the rollers with H/C/I (AFR 165, Crower cam and Cobra Intake) and that was with no chip tuning. Assume the drivetrain loss of 15% 306*1.15=351.9 . A good 306 should make that no problem. 362*.85=307.7 Of course all is subjective to which dyno, conditions etc.

    I used a ford 65mm TB and the Pro-M77 with 24, Ford shorty headers.

    MY opinion, to optimize this, although you don't say which comp cam or your compression ratio (I can only assume its not the 274 or 282 and hopefully you bumped the compression up above 9). 24# and a Pro-M Meter

    I would also look at a 65mm TB and Good headers to bring out the RWHP potential.

    My opinion 30# are a on the large side and would require you to really tweek the fuel pressure (taking the injector out of its optimal range) or possibly do a some chip tuning.

    Oh yes....the old long rod trick. I have built chevy 302s with a 6.00 rod.

    Good article on rod length debate
    http://www.stahlheaders.com/Lit_Rod Length.htm
  14. in the car now it has mac eaqual length headers, cam, valve lift .544 .560 tapet lift .276 .280 compression i think is 9.5 -9.75 scat rods 5.400 length.. was dynoed with stock headers all the had at the shop when it dynoed
  15. Your math is off.
    A 15% loss cannot be put back on top of rwhp numbers, because 15% loss from a higher number is higher loss.
    Make sense?
    362 fwhp with a 15% loss factor is 362 - 54 = 308 rwhp (theoretical)
    But if you dyno'd 308 rwhp, and try to put 15% back on top, or 308 x 1.15, you get only 354 fwhp, because 15% of 308 is less than 15% of the 362 fwhp that was corrected for drivetrain losses.

    Don't get me wrong... I wasn't disagreeing with your post or getting smart. Just pointing out a common error in auto-math! lol :nice:

    If the car is getting an auto trans, then the correction goes up to 20%.
  16. I've got a Pro-M 80mm and 30lb injectors for my N/A 331. I can't imagine you ever needing anything bigger than that on any street driven 306.
  17. Yes, I knew that and completely screwed it up. Using such bad judgement I can't believe my :poo: has held together.:eek:
  18. that worked when there was no real aftermarket head support or in a stock head style class other wise the gains are negligible , I was just reading up on this as I had a stock crank with a eagle 5.4 rod motor with Ross pistons that I was considering re using in the next build but seems as if it will be silly when stroker kits are so cheap

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers