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Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by marksolis01, Apr 23, 2013.
Sounds good, will start looking for here in abit. Thanks again
Ok, how swaping to a '06 crown vic police interspector...how much of a pain would that be??
Just got a call I can get a DOHC engine for $750.00, just thinking PCM would have to be changed out and what else if could tell tell me.
The Interceptor engine would likely have a lot of miles unless it was a chiefs car or something. A DOHC for 750? Lots of miles on that too but if you want to break it down and check internals I'd go with that.
The Cobra has 45K on mileage, how about the PCM or adapters for the tranny
That is nothing for a 4.6 in as far as miles. My old 96 GT had 240K hard miles on it and still ran strong until my son went into the trees with it. How much are they asking? The 06 Crown Vic should be a 2 valve motor so you would need the PCM for that engine. But it isn't too much of an upgrade over your old engine other than it is a PI engine. The older (96-04) were two valves also but in 99 they came out with "performance improved" engine with upgrades to the upper intake and cams. Just a note that in '05 Ford put 3 valve 4.6's in the Mustang and in the Explorer a year later. You would still need to make some upgrades to make it beast on the street...but it could be a good start.
He shouldn't need any PCM with the Crown Vic (or any 2V) engine. Just swapping the longblock in and use all of the old hardware. Firing order is still the same between the PI and NPI. Swap the fuel rails, wiring harness from the old engine, to the new....bolt it up and go.
One thing to worry about with an ex Police Car isn't mileage....it's time. These cars will spend hundreds, upon hundreds of hours at idle throughout their service time. Even though the mileage itself may be low, that's not to say the engine hasn't accumulated a lot of run time.
No Explorer engines near you Mark? You should be able to get yourself a running, low mileage example for somewhere in the $1,000-$1,500 range.
Gearbanger called around here didn't have any 4.6 from an explorer, only 4.0's in my area. What years had the 4.6, but have acces to some DOHC's whats your thoughts now that. Is cobra DOHC better then the PI's, but I'll keep looking today once its becomes daylight (6am).
Sent you a PM about a couple of motor sources.
Rereading I didn't make it clear I guess. Any PCM for the 2V would work so his old one would be fine.
Ok, found 2003 4.6 out of f150...any issues with this????
the explorer has 4.0, but the expendition has 4.6
How far are you willing to travel for an Explorer engine Mark?
I'm seeing 6 of them in under 200-miles of your location? All of which are 4.6L
http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=All States&userIMS=&userInterchange=F>?B&userSide=&userDate=2003&userDate2=2003&dbModel=18.104.22.168&userModel=Ford Explorer&dbPart=300.1&userPart=Engine&sessionID=600000000000000000134751547&userPreference=zip&userZip=77414&userLat=28.8997&userLong=-95.7887&userIntSelect=408922&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey=
200 miles is no problem, I didn't look at the 2003 and up. Will look them here I'm bit. Thanks for the help. Take the triton wasn't a good idea
The long block would be fine, but you'd still be on your own for an intake, throttle body, sensors and plumbing, as the truck intake is different than the car. It would add to the cost and complication. If the Explorer engine doesn't do it for you, stick to a later model passenger car engine. Crown Vic, Marquis, Lincoln Town car. They won't have the beneficial weight savings of an aluminum block like the Explorer does, but at least all of the components are in the right place compared to a truck.
Sounds good will stick to the explorer, thanks for all of the helpful information.
People have put push rod power in these cars but I can't see why you would waste your time and money. Maybe it' because I own both a Fox and a New Edge Mustang but the mod motors are easy to work on, operate smoother, and if you have the cash a ton of potential. Check out the latest issue of 5.0 Mustangs and Super Fords.. 3V swaps are getting more and more popular in the 96-04 GT Mustangs. There are so good kits and parts out there that make it easy.
In a few years when it comes time to replace the 2V in my 2000 GT (still low miles on it) I'm gonna go the 3V route and start with a built 3v. If you have the cash to drop into it there are swap kits that make it super easy....assuming u have the tools and how.
Of course if you have some disposable income a 03' 04' 4V swap would be cool too,
I read that magazine and hated it for once again ting on the 2V.
One thing that came to mind when reading was this: Why not support the one aftermarket company making decent heads for the 2V and get a set of Trickflow Twisted Wedge heads instead of going the 3V route? The heads flow like crazy, bolt on to your existing shortblock, require no wiring, throttle cable/cruise or other changes, uses the existing PI intake, the exhaust manifolds are the same etc etc?
Drop them in with a good cam, get a tune and perhaps some 24# injectors and you'd be making great power.
Or you could forgo the swap altogether, bolt on a blower and have a torque monster making north of 400rwHP on the stock 2V longblock.
If you're looking for 400-450 rwhp, here's what you do. (and trust me, I've been here and done ALL of this myself, and to me, there's no other option)
1. Go to www.car-part.com to look for junkyard motors in your area. You are looking for a 4.6 PI (performance improved) motor. The number 1 choice would be an aluminum block motor from an 02-05 Explorer or Expedition because they are ~100 pounds lighter. The number 2 choice is a motor from an 01+ Lincoln Towncar, Mercury Grand Marquis, or Ford Crown Vic. I'd avoid police cars. The number 3 choice is a motor from a 99+ F150. You can also get them out of 99-04 Mustang GTs, but they will be twice as much as the other choices here (even though they are EXACTLY the same).
2. Swap the motors. Whatever motor you get, you'll need to swap a few parts over from your current engine. These include: timing cover, oil pan, oil pan pickup tube, exhaust manifolds, valve covers (maybe), and intake system (elbow, throttle body, intake tube, MAF, and air box), and all accessories. If you get a car motor of any sort, you will use the intake manifold that came on that car. If you get a truck or SUV motor, you will need to find a PI intake manifold. Or, if you get a positive displacement blower, you won't need one at all. All of the electronics, wiring, ignition system, etc. will work %100.
3. Put an intercooled supercharger on it. Pick your flavor. There's a billion threads out there detailing the different types and pros/cons of each. If I were doing it all over again, I'd get the Tork Tech Terminator kit and swap on a ported Cobra/Lightning blower, but for someone who hasn't done a lot of work on these cars, that might be a little involved. If I were recommending one to someone who wanted a simple install, I'd say get the entire Tork Tech intercooled kit with their Magnuson blower. You will also need a fuel pump (an SVT Focus pump will be fine for 450 rwhp, and only about ~$100), injectors (03-04 Cobras, or 99-04 Lightnings would be perfect), and a MAF sensor (99-04 90mm Lightning).
4. If you so desire, do a couple of the other bolt-ons. Personally, I'd go with an offroad midpipe of your choosing (if you can get through inspections in your area), a catback of your choosing, a CAI, 75mm TB, and elbow. That's about it, though. Long tubes are nice, but expensive.
5. Get it tuned. You'll probably need an SCT X3 handheld tuner for this, and a decent dyno tuner. This setup will easily make 400 rwhp, and it's just a matter of swapping pulleys if you want more. And trust me, coming from someone who drives a 400 rwhp car on the street, it is a handfull. This setup will be a PLENTY of power on the street for 99%+ of people out there.
If you shop around and get some decent deals on used parts, this entire setup can be done for <$5000. Plus, it will behave completely like it did stock. Very easy to drive in the rain, 25+ mpg, etc. And with the right tires, gears, and driver, it is easily a mid-11 second car at the track.
Kewl, just found a aluminum bare (no rotating assembly) block today, has been balanced, and ready to go...it came out of a mustang (will get the cast #'s in the morning), Also found some cobra & '04 heads near me. all will cost me $600 to pick up, but found a ford crate motor 4.6 still in the block for $1200 (96-04), not to much information wil gather in the morning. I'm leaning more to the crate motor, seems to be an easier swap...only to the rotating assembly will run me $1500-$2200... Let me know