4.6 engine "build"

Dec 16, 2019
18
1
13
17
Alberta
Planning out my first ever major car build. I've got a 96 GT with a very tired engine and some money I'm itchin to spend on this car :D. I'm lucky to have all the resources needed to make this build easy, starting with pulling the engine. I've had some header issues with the bolts connecting the exhaust snapping (I've heard this is a common issue) so i'm planning to do LTs while I've got the engine out. I'm thinking of going with EngineTech's 4.6 rebuild kit they make for this motor which has pistons, gaskets, seals, bearings, timing chain etc.Pretty much a perfect refresh kit for the engine. Doing a Pi swap, as most do to help the engine breathe better and then I'm thinking of going for a hotter cam. Comp cams Xtreme energy stage 2 seems like a good cam to drop in while still being somewhat considerate price-wise.I figure that since I'm gonna be rebuilding the engine anyways I might as well be doing the upgrades I want now, with the engine out. Should I consider taking in the heads and block for machine work? Bore the cylinders and port the heads?I'm not planning forced induction or some ridiculous 500+ hp. Is it worth it? 300whp is probably a bold goal for this engine and I'd be happy to be in that 270-290 range at the crank. Does this sound balanced to you guys? Is there anywhere that I should or shouldn't be spending some money on? Any input is greatly appreciated thanks!!!
 
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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
613
75
38
Massachusetts
Hi,
This is a long winded response... have a couple questions..car close to bone stock? And No, 300RWHP is not a ridiculous goal at all. You should match the cars handling & stopping abilities. Keep everything balanced proportional to speed, no fear of the twisties.
If it’s a 5 speed it’s likely a T-45, stock clutch ok for 300Ft/lbs, not much beyond that, Input shaft weak. Replace that & it’s good for >400Ft/Lns.
I’ve worked on 4.6’s with >/= 300K, ILL maintained yet they ran very strong. Heads are generally what’s in need of attention, not the short block. Pick up a Haynes shop manual(if you don’t have one).
Are you basing necessity of a rebuild on miles, upper/lower engine noise, smoky exhaust, lack of power, sludge under valve-covers? There’s some tests to yielding insight of the health of your answers ill explain, based on your reply..
PI SWAP......
The 96’s-98’s 4.6L platform is strong, with a PI swap alone, average gains are from stock’s lacking 210-215BHP to 265-275 pBHP, Decent stainless Kooks, MAC, BBK 1-5/8” L.T. Headers should nail the 300BHP mark with a good CPU tune. (BAMA’s/SCT WIFI tuner w/free ‘tunes for life’ is convenient & a hard to beat deal (A.Muscle), or a local dynotune will cost more, to gain a few extra HP)..
Going to #19 to #24lb by Ford /Accel injectors, with an injector calibrated PRO-M or BBK MAF will add another 10-15HP, from a stock 65mm T.Body to a BBK, Accufab or SVE 75-78mm T.Body (90 degree plenum or straight flange type(s) both world) is good for another 12-15BHP. There’s 280-290RWHP, with a free flowingB exhaust w/high flow Cat’s, good Tune, you should hit 300RWHP you were seeking with a BAMA tune making everything work together well & having a reliable GT that’s mild mannered in traffic, yet still zip through the 1,320 in the 12 second range.
A tune on a bone stock 96’ GT is good for 15-20RWHP. If you’re looking for an idle lope, there’s a few cams that’ll do that, & run with OE PI springs, have specs similar to the PI Cam(s), little more
Gains are mostly due to PI Cam(s) improves lift/duration & the PI Intake’s improved breathing abilities. 96’-98’ 4.6l’s running higher compression flattop pistons, 99’-04’’s run lower compression dished pistons.Unless you want to run 91+ octane fuel all the time, with a rebuild, you can correct this if, indeed it needs a rebuild.
I’d take the short block & allow them to boil it to clean all passagescheck for ring land grooves, bore bell mouthing, polish crank journals & hopefully go with OE size bearings (Michigan 77 bearings work great!)., reuse stock pistons & run new rings, hone the block with deck plates installed (mimics how the block/bores reacts to torqued heads. If you want the lower 9.5:1 compression ratio, , a set of dished pistons aren’t expensive, or even other aftermarket heads with larger chambers.
Note, Although RTV will allow the PI intake to fit, or running or gaskets, it’s only asking for issues.. PI paarts with PI, OE with OE.
Hop that helps!
-John
 
Dec 16, 2019
18
1
13
17
Alberta
Hi,
This is a long winded response... have a couple questions..car close to bone stock? And No, 300RWHP is not a ridiculous goal at all. You should match the cars handling & stopping abilities. Keep everything balanced proportional to speed, no fear of the twisties.
If it’s a 5 speed it’s likely a T-45, stock clutch ok for 300Ft/lbs, not much beyond that, Input shaft weak. Replace that & it’s good for >400Ft/Lns.
I’ve worked on 4.6’s with >/= 300K, ILL maintained yet they ran very strong. Heads are generally what’s in need of attention, not the short block. Pick up a Haynes shop manual(if you don’t have one).
Are you basing necessity of a rebuild on miles, upper/lower engine noise, smoky exhaust, lack of power, sludge under valve-covers? There’s some tests to yielding insight of the health of your answers ill explain, based on your reply..
PI SWAP......
The 96’s-98’s 4.6L platform is strong, with a PI swap alone, average gains are from stock’s lacking 210-215BHP to 265-275 pBHP, Decent stainless Kooks, MAC, BBK 1-5/8” L.T. Headers should nail the 300BHP mark with a good CPU tune. (BAMA’s/SCT WIFI tuner w/free ‘tunes for life’ is convenient & a hard to beat deal (A.Muscle), or a local dynotune will cost more, to gain a few extra HP)..
Going to #19 to #24lb by Ford /Accel injectors, with an injector calibrated PRO-M or BBK MAF will add another 10-15HP, from a stock 65mm T.Body to a BBK, Accufab or SVE 75-78mm T.Body (90 degree plenum or straight flange type(s) both world) is good for another 12-15BHP. There’s 280-290RWHP, with a free flowingB exhaust w/high flow Cat’s, good Tune, you should hit 300RWHP you were seeking with a BAMA tune making everything work together well & having a reliable GT that’s mild mannered in traffic, yet still zip through the 1,320 in the 12 second range.
A tune on a bone stock 96’ GT is good for 15-20RWHP. If you’re looking for an idle lope, there’s a few cams that’ll do that, & run with OE PI springs, have specs similar to the PI Cam(s), little more
Gains are mostly due to PI Cam(s) improves lift/duration & the PI Intake’s improved breathing abilities. 96’-98’ 4.6l’s running higher compression flattop pistons, 99’-04’’s run lower compression dished pistons.Unless you want to run 91+ octane fuel all the time, with a rebuild, you can correct this if, indeed it needs a rebuild.
I’d take the short block & allow them to boil it to clean all passagescheck for ring land grooves, bore bell mouthing, polish crank journals & hopefully go with OE size bearings (Michigan 77 bearings work great!)., reuse stock pistons & run new rings, hone the block with deck plates installed (mimics how the block/bores reacts to torqued heads. If you want the lower 9.5:1 compression ratio, , a set of dished pistons aren’t expensive, or even other aftermarket heads with larger chambers.
Note, Although RTV will allow the PI intake to fit, or running or gaskets, it’s only asking for issues.. PI paarts with PI, OE with OE.
Hop that helps!
-John
Thanks for the message! Probably should have included more info about the car. 5 speed t45 with 180k miles. Engine seems to be reasonably healthy but based on the condition on the rest of the car I have my concerns. Main reason I want to do the rebuild is to learn. I’ve gotten into cars this last year and want to learn about this sort of stuff (I’m still in high school) As far as upgrades go the car is essentially bone stock, save for a cold air intake and a sub . I’ve also got lowering springs I’ll be putting on the car to lower and stiffen up the ride a bit which should be a good start as far as suspension goes. I’ve got a flowmaster super 44 system, just need to order the LTs and the X pipe. I know a gear swap is popular so that might be something to do as well, 4.10 or 3.73 but that is probably a later project. I don’t want to get 10 different things started and end up finishing one or two of them. So for now my plan is to pull the engine, get the stock headers off (this won’t really be necessary since I’m Pi swapping) and then do the PI swap. Sounds like it might be worth leaving the bottom end alone I was mainly planning on doing it for the experience since I’ll have the engine out regardless.

once again this is where I’m Unsure of how far I should take things when i have the engine out. Like a mentioned 300 is the goal so stock internals should not be a concern. Just trying to decide if I should do full rebuild with cams, heads, pistons etc. Or just do the Pi swap and focus more of my budget towards some of the other things you mentioned (tune, MaF, injectors). This car is not relied upon for a daily driver so I’m fine having it apart all spring or summer if need be. So just to clarify, I SHOULD go for the dished pistons to keep a lower compression ratio? Or do I want to keep the flat NPi ones to bump it to 10.5:1. Thanks for the help!
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
613
75
38
Massachusetts
Hi, No prob’s!
Yes, I’m the grand scheme of things, your 4.6L motor is over midline lifespan @ 180K, not excessively. i’d built the top end (PI) after compression & leak down, fuel pressure/flow testing, pull off a valve cover & look for caked on grit, if nasty- may need a rebuild based on negligent maintenance. Save for a Rev-X Tuner (W/free unlimited tunes for each mod you add for life.. as long as you own the car) /Cool air intake combo(C&L racer is the best, IMO. Airaids are good for +25HP~35HP w/a tune, too). @ A. Muscle- prices drop if you buy both simultaneously)).
Consider this..Gears:
1) 86’-93’s share the same 8.8” rear end. Gears are hands down the best bang for the buck. Run FRPP (Ford Racing; at LMR). Changing them requires the gearset, an installation kit, axle bearings & seals, a shop that’s specific to rebuilding transaxles& differentials. Cost is about 500-700$ installed & it’ll feel like a entirely different vehicle. 2.73’s or 3.27’s to 3.73’s or 4.10’s- wow!
Your car has 5 ratios, 1-4 for performance, normal driving, RACING. 5th generally economical. The 96’-04’ T-45’s had an identical gear ratio spread, 3.37, 1.99, 1.33, 1.00, and.....0.67.- the ‘highway gear’.. Most don’t use 5th when racing, unless highly modified. It’s like a brick in the wind tunnel, taking lots of HP/TQ to overcome wind co-efficiencies. (Reverse is usually the same ratio as 1st; T-45’s run 3.22, I think).
Look at an old Muncie, Toploader, etc, note 4th gear is 1:1 as is 4th in T-45’s, yet UNLIKE the T-45 & most late 70’s & up cars, no highway gear.
I sent you a link below, verify your tire size after you plug in car info, then the 1st-5th gear T-45 ratios listed above, find a ratio that best suits you. it’ll show speed at 5,000 in 1st, or what RPM’s you’ll cross the 1/4 mile in in 4th, it may also be used backwards by plugging different gears in it & what difference you’ll see at redline in each gear. Old method of seeking the best Cam app, motor build HP/Tq @ RPM’s & ratio’s to land in the right gears to rev to redline at the finish.


2) The 96’s rear end should have a plate hanging off it, letter (E) means it's a 3.27 axle ratio, traction lock, limited slip differential. (1) - 2.73 conventional, ( A ) - 2.73 or 3.08 traction lock , ( C ) 3.27 traction lock, limited slip.
Math, just in case....

Formula: Engine RPM x Rear Tire diameter
———————————————— = Gear ratio
MPH X 336

2) Locate & Build another later model (99’-04’ 4.6L PI motor) like you were with this one.You'll be able to run a low octane tune as it’s already setup with lower Comp.dished pistons. They didn’t just make these for Mustangs, Trucks, Police Interceptor Crown Vic’s(P71 code, I think). State Police Int’s may have miles- but highway miles & were aggressively maintained. The shop takes care of their end, at the same time, run this this one & the biggest obstacle is adding the Bolt-on’ss, add gears, Cool air, headers, get tuned & find out if how the car feels, and how far away you are from where you think a good balance is....Cars going to need all the exhaust & other work, so it’s balanced. You’ll start at 250+ HP, not need PI stuff, already there. Cams & airbox was different- but they made changes within the motor may be different,
Shop will hot tank block, cold tank measure things up, buy bolt-on parts so they’re not wasted- reused when this motor drops in. Use your same CPU.. Re-ring it after a torque plate home, bearings, rank polishing.
Reaching MUCH further, Did you realize you can run a DOHC head on certain year SOHC blocks & make it into a 32V motor? Takes a Lots of research & learning-.... You wanted a project to get deeper into this subject, nothing will beat the research it’ll take to get you there, as a first project....that’d be my choice. You’ll need to do a lot of research, start with the 96’-04 shop manual, and have at it. Tremendous resources online at your disposal,
Too much..!or sound like better, or a future goal that you COULD plan if just sticking to the existing block the shop verifies & squares up, hopefully a re-ring hone & standard size bearings, no align boring or big end rod resizing. That’s a component I’d replace- rods, you get it back all machined to fit, you have all spec’s & are armed with an engine assembly book, check, recheck, assemble.
Hi about an aluminum block 5.4L Ford racing or an older Tekskid block, 4.6l, 5.4L, weighing about 60% of the Cast iron counterparts? FRPP’s 1,100-1,500 HP capable, your 4.6l’s cast steel block is capable of 500HP, with the right components. This all played into the more recent Coyote block, which can handle near twice the 440HP the first 5.0’s put out..
Lots of options, if you’re looking for remembrance in 20yrs...”you guys remember that swap in that GT this guy made...wow”, you’re doing it for the wrong reason.. You should consider a good Tech school & pursue this interest, it’s lucrative if in the right spot, jump into the Service, work in a spot you enjoy, retire at 38, schools paid for, travel, start your own shop.
Can’t beat it! BTW, your question regarding Pistons...the 4.6L in the 96’-98’s had plattop pistons w/reliefs, the 99’-04’ pistons were dished. The drawback being higher compression with the small chambered PI heads, and you’ll need to run 91+ octane to avoid detonation with that higher compression.so you want less compression to avoid that. Which means running dished pistons to drop the ratio. Or, as suggested, another motor- 99’04’, already PI motors, with 9.25-9.5:1 compression. You can RUN the motor, it’ll ping with any significant timing added, possible detonation.
Good reads below on the modular motors:
https://www.diyford.com/4-6l-5-4l-ford-rebuild-cheat-sheet-selecting-parts/
-Good luck, something to think on...
-John
 
Last edited:
Dec 16, 2019
18
1
13
17
Alberta
Hi, No prob’s!
Yes, I’m the grand scheme of things, your 4.6L motor is over midline lifespan @ 180K, not excessively. i’d built the top end (PI) after compression & leak down, fuel pressure/flow testing, pull off a valve cover & look for caked on grit, if nasty- may need a rebuild based on negligent maintenance. Save for a Rev-X Tuner (W/free unlimited tunes for each mod you add for life.. as long as you own the car) /Cool air intake combo(C&L racer is the best, IMO. Airaids are good for +25HP~35HP w/a tune, too). @ A. Muscle- prices drop if you buy both simultaneously)).
Consider this..Gears:
1) 86’-93’s share the same 8.8” rear end. Gears are hands down the best bang for the buck. Run FRPP (Ford Racing; at LMR). Changing them requires the gearset, an installation kit, axle bearings & seals, a shop that’s specific to rebuilding transaxles& differentials. Cost is about 500-700$ installed & it’ll feel like a entirely different vehicle. 2.73’s or 3.27’s to 3.73’s or 4.10’s- wow!
Your car has 5 ratios, 1-4 for performance, normal driving, RACING. 5th generally economical. The 96’-04’ T-45’s had an identical gear ratio spread, 3.37, 1.99, 1.33, 1.00, and.....0.67.- the ‘highway gear’.. Most don’t use 5th when racing, unless highly modified. It’s like a brick in the wind tunnel, taking lots of HP/TQ to overcome wind co-efficiencies. (Reverse is usually the same ratio as 1st; T-45’s run 3.22, I think).
Look at an old Muncie, Toploader, etc, note 4th gear is 1:1 as is 4th in T-45’s, yet UNLIKE the T-45 & most late 70’s & up cars, no highway gear.
I sent you a link below, verify your tire size after you plug in car info, then the 1st-5th gear T-45 ratios listed above, find a ratio that best suits you. it’ll show speed at 5,000 in 1st, or what RPM’s you’ll cross the 1/4 mile in in 4th, it may also be used backwards by plugging different gears in it & what difference you’ll see at redline in each gear. Old method of seeking the best Cam app, motor build HP/Tq @ RPM’s & ratio’s to land in the right gears to rev to redline at the finish.


2) The 96’s rear end should have a plate hanging off it, letter (E) means it's a 3.27 axle ratio, traction lock, limited slip differential. (1) - 2.73 conventional, ( A ) - 2.73 or 3.08 traction lock , ( C ) 3.27 traction lock, limited slip.
Math, just in case....

Formula: Engine RPM x Rear Tire diameter
———————————————— = Gear ratio
MPH X 336

2) Locate & Build another later model (99’-04’ 4.6L PI motor) like you were with this one.You'll be able to run a low octane tune as it’s already setup with lower Comp.dished pistons. They didn’t just make these for Mustangs, Trucks, Police Interceptor Crown Vic’s(P71 code, I think). State Police Int’s may have miles- but highway miles & were aggressively maintained. The shop takes care of their end, at the same time, run this this one & the biggest obstacle is adding the Bolt-on’ss, add gears, Cool air, headers, get tuned & find out if how the car feels, and how far away you are from where you think a good balance is....Cars going to need all the exhaust & other work, so it’s balanced. You’ll start at 250+ HP, not need PI stuff, already there. Cams & airbox was different- but they made changes within the motor may be different,
Shop will hot tank block, cold tank measure things up, buy bolt-on parts so they’re not wasted- reused when this motor drops in. Use your same CPU.. Re-ring it after a torque plate home, bearings, rank polishing.
Reaching MUCH further, Did you realize you can run a DOHC head on certain year SOHC blocks & make it into a 32V motor? Takes a Lots of research & learning-.... You wanted a project to get deeper into this subject, nothing will beat the research it’ll take to get you there, as a first project....that’d be my choice. You’ll need to do a lot of research, start with the 96’-04 shop manual, and have at it. Tremendous resources online at your disposal,
Too much..!or sound like better, or a future goal that you COULD plan if just sticking to the existing block the shop verifies & squares up, hopefully a re-ring hone & standard size bearings, no align boring or big end rod resizing. That’s a component I’d replace- rods, you get it back all machined to fit, you have all spec’s & are armed with an engine assembly book, check, recheck, assemble.
Hi about an aluminum block 5.4L Ford racing or an older Tekskid block, 4.6l, 5.4L, weighing about 60% of the Cast iron counterparts? FRPP’s 1,100-1,500 HP capable, your 4.6l’s cast steel block is capable of 500HP, with the right components. This all played into the more recent Coyote block, which can handle near twice the 440HP the first 5.0’s put out..
Lots of options, if you’re looking for remembrance in 20yrs...”you guys remember that swap in that GT this guy made...wow”, you’re doing it for the wrong reason.. You should consider a good Tech school & pursue this interest, it’s lucrative if in the right spot, jump into the Service, work in a spot you enjoy, retire at 38, schools paid for, travel, start your own shop.
Can’t beat it! BTW, your question regarding Pistons...the 4.6L in the 96’-98’s had plattop pistons w/reliefs, the 99’-04’ pistons were dished. The drawback being higher compression with the small chambered PI heads, and you’ll need to run 91+ octane to avoid detonation with that higher compression.so you want less compression to avoid that. Which means running dished pistons to drop the ratio. Or, as suggested, another motor- 99’04’, already PI motors, with 9.25-9.5:1 compression. You can RUN the motor, it’ll ping with any significant timing added, possible detonation.
Good reads below on the modular motors:
https://www.diyford.com/4-6l-5-4l-ford-rebuild-cheat-sheet-selecting-parts/
-Good luck, something to think on...
-John
whew that’s a lot of info for my 16 year old mind (and especially wallet) to take in lol. I did for a time consider going the route of the 2V 5.4.. build off a bigger engine and gain some decent torque.. main thing that turned me off of it is the lack of intake manifolds that fit and the adapter plates just seemed like such a bottleneck.. I don’t really trust myself with the experience or budget needed to take a swing at a more major swap, main reason I was thinking of doing a more basic top end build with the PI swap and maybe adding some cams and calling it a day. I’m into this car for around $1450 and overall the shell is pretty rough. No rust but the roof is pretty Effed up from the hood coming off and smacking it (courtesy of the previous owner). I’m more than happy with the vehicle regardless, it fit my budget great and it’s probably the cheapest GT to ever come up for sale in my area. Therefore I don’t want to put TOO much money under the hood as there are other things I want to work on as well. There are no tracks in my area so other than maybe some red light racing against some kids in straight-piped civics I won’t really be putting this car through he paces. Down the road when I’m out of school, have a steady job maybe I’ll revisit the car (if I still have it) I’m sure I’m not the only kid that’s planned a list of things they want to do and then realize what it would cost and realize there are other priorities in life. Either way I’m still gonna build this car up, maybe not to the 500hp potential I’ve seen these 2Vs reach but something fun, something I can look back on and say “I built that. That was my first car.” By the way here’s a picture of what it looks like at the moment. I started wrapping the car and ended up abandoning that project after I realized how much body work the car needs whether I paint it or wrap it. Anyways thanks for the info hopefully I’ll be able to start piecing the parts together for this build when I get back from holidays. Cheers.
 

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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
613
75
38
Massachusetts
Hi,
Pony’s Very nice! Bodywork?
Darker colors make it seem worse than it is. You’ll make yourself cuckoo... One thing at a time, don’t get overwhelmed...Get it mechanically right, then focus on the body.
Listen, I didn’t intend to confuse or mislead with high $$ builds or suggest that’s the only way to do it. This can absolutely be done on a shoestring, just need to get dirty is all- goes with the territory. What you do is 100% your call, my desire is to share my experience so you may best nail your goals, ‘best bang for the buck’.
So far it seems your smart & resourceful I get that funds are tight, much you can still do to make a huge difference & gain insight you’re looking for, experience and more self-satisfaction from completing a build yourself. Awesome!! And you WON’T ever forget it.
Going with a PI swap & basic bolt on’s listed, you’re in the neighborhood of 300 crank HP, gears will improve that largely.
As for a full rebuild, now-know preparation (machining) gets pricey-quick. Running some basics, I.E.; compression & leak down tests, accurate oil pressure readings & others while it’s still together will yield solid insight. If maintained reasonably, at 300K+ & still running strong.
(If desired) There’s also the possibility of finding a later model ex state police PI Crown Vic motor in good shape. May have been driven hard at times, but also aggressively maintained.
If it’s in good internal shape, economical having a shop do the basics so you can re-ring it, add new bearings, seals, rebuild. You can borrow the tools you need from automotive chain stores. Feel free to Post what you’d like to do, happy to help!
John
Have a fun & safe Happy New Year!!!
 
Last edited:
Dec 16, 2019
18
1
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17
Alberta
Thanks for the message John. I should’ve supplied better pictures regarding the bodywork, those are the ones I post to hide the damage :D the roof and door were damaged and poorly repaired. The good was in similar condition but I got a good condition hood from the junkyard. The plan is to change colours, something bright I’m not really one to have a murdered out car. My main appeal for rebuild is for the experience, I want to be a mechanic when I grow up so I want this car to be my learning platform. Do some interior work, exterior work and some engine work so when it’s all said and done I’ve got a cool little car to drive around and a lot more experience working with engines And cars in general.
 

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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
613
75
38
Massachusetts
Hi,
Have a clear pic.of where you’re going now. Question...Great career choice, your head’s screwed on tight for 16. A vocational High school with an automotive program would suit you. Any local ones? May not be too late to squeeze in. I did, Sophomore year & schedule was 1wk Academic, 1wk Shop. On Co-op & worked at a Dealership my entire Sr year.
Many Voke schools will go over the top for driven candidates to early Junior yr. transfers You’d have to dedicate yourself, 100%+, but it’s been done. Jump at that hard & fast if interested/feasible.. That being said, now the project. Have the technical manual yet?
I’ll help you in any way I can with this 4.6l build.
Best!
-John
 
Dec 16, 2019
18
1
13
17
Alberta
I have the hanes manual, not sure if that's the one. I'm in alberta and nearby is the SAIT trades school which could be a potential option. The other one (and the one I am leaning towards) Is the caterpillar think big program. My dad works at the caterpillar branch nearby as a saleman and has a lot of good things to day about it. You work a 3 week classroom, 3 week hands on schedule (I believe its for 2 years?) With both the program and room and board paid for. Oh, and you also get PAID for the hours you work during the program. You come out 2 years later, school 100% paid for with a certification for a heavy equipment mechanic. Those guys are making $120k a year right out of the gate at caterpillar! No student loans or debt plus the money already made from the program. Yes, it isn't automotive work but it's still the mechanical involvement that I enjoy. So that is one of the possibilities that I like, so long as I can convince my mom about it haha.
 
Dec 16, 2019
18
1
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17
Alberta
Placed my first "phase" order of parts last night. Seats, short throw shifter, rear seat delete (Both me, my brother and my dad are so tall the rear seats are more than useless) and then a few little pieces to get things rolling. Got some replacement cobra wheel caps for my current wheels, planning to sell them as they aren't really my style, not to mention my car isn't a cobra lol. Also got so lock rod clips, my driver side one is missing. The engine build will come, probably with summer as I will have more work space when a very special building finishes construction :). As the car is in meh condition I have a few things I want to do all around the car.

Interior is coming first, Easiest to do especially with my smaller work space at the moment.

Then once summer hits the engine is coming out for 2 reasons

1. It's gonna be rebuilt, plus new LT headers as the stock ones are toast, exhaust bolts snapped blah blah blah

2. I want to paint the car. As you can see in the pics above the roof needs some SERIOUS bodywork, not sure it ill do it myself or take it in. I'm friends with the manager of my local Fix Auto (my dad actually bought a WRX STI off him in the fall) so I might see if they could get it straight for me first. Having the engine out will be a good time for me to clean up and maybe paint the engine bay as well and I figure since I'll have everything out I should put it together right.

So in the end I'll hopefully end up doing some interior, exterior and Engine work by the end of it and come out knowing a lot more than before. I was reading a build on speed hunters that I absolutely LOVE http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/06/orange-no-pulp-different-kind-mustang/ I really like that colour and might do something like that myself.

anyways that's the first update. Parts will take a little while as I ship them to my buddy in the US and he brings them over to save me the 100s in shipping and duty fees there are here in Canada. He's back and forth from Montana so it's a big help.
 
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08GT500

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38
Massachusetts
Placed my first "phase" order of parts last night. Seats, short throw shifter, rear seat delete (Both me, my brother and my dad are so tall the rear seats are more than useless) and then a few little pieces to get things rolling. Got some replacement cobra wheel caps for my current wheels, planning to sell them as they aren't really my style, not to mention my car isn't a cobra lol. Also got so lock rod clips, my driver side one is missing. The engine build will come, probably with summer as I will have more work space when a very special building finishes construction :). As the car is in meh condition I have a few things I want to do all around the car.

Interior is coming first, Easiest to do especially with my smaller work space at the moment.

Then once summer hits the engine is coming out for 2 reasons

1. It's gonna be rebuilt, plus new LT headers as the stock ones are toast, exhaust bolts snapped blah blah blah

2. I want to paint the car. As you can see in the pics above the roof needs some SERIOUS bodywork, not sure it ill do it myself or take it in. I'm friends with the manager of my local Fix Auto (my dad actually bought a WRX STI off him in the fall) so I might see if they could get it straight for me first. Having the engine out will be a good time for me to clean up and maybe paint the engine bay as well and I figure since I'll have everything out I should put it together right.

So in the end I'll hopefully end up doing some interior, exterior and Engine work by the end of it and come out knowing a lot more than before. I was reading a build on speed hunters that I absolutely LOVE http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/06/orange-no-pulp-different-kind-mustang/ I really like that colour and might do something like that myself.

anyways that's the first update. Parts will take a little while as I ship them to my buddy in the US and he brings them over to save me the 100s in shipping and duty fees there are here in Canada. He's back and forth from Montana so it's a big help.
Hi, interesting article!
That color is one of my favorites (that & electric blue). lol. It has other names, Mopar’s color names the most illustrious..Vitamin C Orange..or Hugger Orange..Hemi Orange..then Chevy Orange...Pontiac GTO- Orbit Orange..lol.
Oh yeah! Clean & sand/prime & spray the bay so it looks good, perfect time to do it while the motor’s out.
Well, you’ve got to start somewhere & you are. It’s all things that have to be done. Bodywork isn’t really as difficult as you expect, but is time consuming. That’s cool that you have somebody from over the border cut costs.
CPU tuning is another to keep in mind (Longtube Headers alone will confuse the CPU as the O2 sensors are mounted further downstream from the motor than the stock ones are). That’s either a Dynotuner or buying a handheld Tuner from AM.
Could start a build thread on Stangnet if you wanted. Well- sounds good! Take lots of pic’s.
Ask any questions you like!
Good luck!!
-John