429 Swap?
- Thread starter Tayler Neudorf
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- 1968 mustang engine swap
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horse sence
15 Year Member
Way to much weight for the front end to handle with out a lot mods ,i would go with a 351 w or 351 c before i would do a 429.being from a ford truck it is probably a 460, same thing just more cubic inch
Thanks, I was originally planning on getting a 351w, but and being given the 429 from a friend. Any idea what would all need to be beefed up in the front end to support the 429?
horse sence
15 Year Member
A lot of structural work,the weight and torque would tear it up.you would need frame rail connectors for a start and you would probably have to modify the spring towers just to get it in there. You would probably have to modify the tranmission tunnel at the fire wall to get a big block automatic in ,the bell housing is a lot taller than a small block .Motor mounts are completely different so you would need to fab those. Exhaust manifolds /headers would probably be a problem also
Im new here. Sorry I couldnt stand all the misinformation in this post. Seems some people have no clue what is involved in this swap but continue to give bad info. I can tell you all you need to know about the swap. It is very simple and no major surgery or super duper bracing and crazy mods needed.
Bob
Bob
A 385 series engine will fit easily into a 67 and up mustang without shock tower mods but notching them will help plug changes greatly. A c6 will mate up perfect just make sure you get one from a 429/460 or a 400m. Headers are readily available from crites restoration, FPA has shorties. There are others. Crites has mounts and tranny mounts. If your gonna drag race it small block springs work good or moroso trick springs.
With aluminum heads waterpump and intake the weight wont be a big issue. Transmission tunnel mods are not needed with a c6. A c4 will give you lits more room but unless they are built pretty stout it wont live behind a built 460 very long.
Dont get me wrong its a tight fit but very easy swap. Go for it. Hope you have lots of money for back tires! Any other questions ask.
Bob
With aluminum heads waterpump and intake the weight wont be a big issue. Transmission tunnel mods are not needed with a c6. A c4 will give you lits more room but unless they are built pretty stout it wont live behind a built 460 very long.
Dont get me wrong its a tight fit but very easy swap. Go for it. Hope you have lots of money for back tires! Any other questions ask.
Bob
horse sence
15 Year Member
The problem with putting a 429 / 460 into a 67 with out strengthening the front is
The front end is not built to handle the weight much less any added horse power with out modifing the front end.
A 67 only has one torque box in the front and the other side is simply attached to the floor and the fire wall this causes the frame rail to lift in the front ,so you will need to ad the other torque box to ,you can see this by the door to fender gap on most 67s being wider at the bottom and tighter at the top ,i have had to put a lot of 67 on the frame straightener to fix this. You can ad the other torqur box to strengthen that frame rail .
The next problem is the spring towers ,they crack easily enough with a small block,the extra wright ads more leaverage to the towers and can cause them to lean in or crack with out reinforvement .
Body stress from the extra weight is also a problem it usually causes a crack at the top of the windshield post and on coupes will crack at the quarter behind the quarter window. Frame rail connectors will help stop this.
A small block with a C4 weighs in at around 610 lbs ,a 429/460 with a C6 wrighs in at around 825 pounds so around 215 lbs extra added to those towers a rails
To not reinforce it is a big mistake.
I havent built just one car ,i have built around 175 Mustangs from 64 -73 so i have seen what extra horse power a extra weight does to these cars
The front end is not built to handle the weight much less any added horse power with out modifing the front end.
A 67 only has one torque box in the front and the other side is simply attached to the floor and the fire wall this causes the frame rail to lift in the front ,so you will need to ad the other torque box to ,you can see this by the door to fender gap on most 67s being wider at the bottom and tighter at the top ,i have had to put a lot of 67 on the frame straightener to fix this. You can ad the other torqur box to strengthen that frame rail .
The next problem is the spring towers ,they crack easily enough with a small block,the extra wright ads more leaverage to the towers and can cause them to lean in or crack with out reinforvement .
Body stress from the extra weight is also a problem it usually causes a crack at the top of the windshield post and on coupes will crack at the quarter behind the quarter window. Frame rail connectors will help stop this.
A small block with a C4 weighs in at around 610 lbs ,a 429/460 with a C6 wrighs in at around 825 pounds so around 215 lbs extra added to those towers a rails
To not reinforce it is a big mistake.
I havent built just one car ,i have built around 175 Mustangs from 64 -73 so i have seen what extra horse power a extra weight does to these cars
I agree horse sence. It definately is a good idea to reinforce the front end and chassis. I have a 10 point cage that goes through the firewall and is tied into the shock towers as well. Also bolt in connectors that are welded. I was just trying to help the man with the swap not discourage him. There are thousands of mustangs of all years that have had this swap done. With aluminum parts a big block can be brought into stock small block weight range. Most guys that do this swap are not road racers and are not looking for maximum turning capabilities. They are drag racers. Like I said if anyone wants any input on the swap im happy to help. HAVE A NICE DAY.
BOB
BOB
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