Build Thread 429MII's Build Thread

Yeah.. bars fall just in front of perches I may have to fab something to connect the two. The back bars land mid wheel well each side.
I have my seat at full back and it seems that is where i would sit, so I may have to move the seat mounting back a little also. So that would mea
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n altering bar, which isn't out of the question.
 
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Thank you
No problem..thank you... I appreciate and weigh everyone's input on this project. We all have an interest in these cars, tastes and preferences will vary, but input is good. If I have a pic or can take one I will post it. I am trying to figure out taking nice pictures...I am not too good at it lol.

I have built cars before, but this is pretty out there.. as in no one else really does this to these cars.. except perhaps the original iteration (sudden death).


...Yesterday I took the gas pedal and clutch a brake pedal mock ups all back out in preparation for welding and finishing the tunnel. Then start with re-fabricating some of the mock up pieces. Some were made in a quick fashion to test fit and see if it all worked together. Now that I know it does, I can make it look decent.

Also, in regard to the roll bar situation, I discovered I will be able to tie in the roll bar mounts to the frame connectors after all... Although they sit a little ahead of the spring perch, they do sit directly above the frame connector, and that is firmly bolted to the perch, so it will be cohesive in the end. I will make the mount, gussets, and plates, and then weld those to the connectors under the floor so it will bolt through. I want the bar to remain bolt in, as the interior work is much easier to complete nicely since i am keeping a full interior including back seat.

Mark
 
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My crappy photo angle makes these look uneven, Not sure why, but they are level on the car.
Both sides are slightly different though, as the tunnel shape is different from side to side because of how the trans sits, and me not wanting to give up any interior space if I didn't have to.
 
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...So I actually got the roll bar mount plates to attach directly to the torque box support plate that the front leaf spring attaches to. In addition, it will bolt trough the floor, two plates and attach to the subframe connectors really tying all this area together.

I cut the front off the torque box plate on the floor inside the car and welded a 3/16 thick plate "extension" to the front of it which extends it forward so the roll bar mount plate sits on it. Next I will drill down through this plate, through the floor and out the bottom. Then I will drill plates to weld to the subframe below, and grade 8 bolts go through it all tying it all together.
 
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Worked on finishing accelerator linkage, firewall pass through and carb bracket etc, today, pics to follow. Not super interesting stuff lol...The original passthrough was self tappers, but I went with a tapped metal plate tacked on the firewall for a better set up.
 
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Boring stuff, but bracket I tabbed up for throttle, pretty tight but that's par for the course on this job
I like the stock type throttle cable because it has a built in return spring for a cleaner look. Also clips in to the stock pedal which I relocated which is nice. I get full throttle range the way it's set up so that is all good. Going to pull the engine back out today so I can get on to finishing up the firewall.
 
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plate welded in to extend original torque box plate. Roll bar bolts through it and through the floor into doubled up backing plates which will get welded from the underside to the subframe connectors which will tie it all together.
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Third bolt for now is tapped into subframe connector metal until I get plates attached on underside, then i can drill it through and cross bolt it.
 
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Wow! This pictures is a good summary how much work did go into this build.

No kidding right!?!

Engine mount plate is neat.

Was trying to imagine where the exhaust is going to go? still got a starter and steering in the way.

I think the cup is more than half full, and at least most of that big firewall hole is gone now.
Its gonna be awesome
 
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I know it's a tighter fit than one would expect, but given the engine setback it makes things kind of snug between the torque boxes.
I have since reinforced the firewall on the passenger side (pics to follow) and just about done fabbing the top inner cowl panel. I need to now clean and seal rust proof and paint all inside the cowl as I will have no access once all the panels are welded in.

Exhaust will poke its way out through the inner fenders on the right side with the exception of the front tube which angles forward then down and under. Then they come together outside the front torque box to the rocker side of the sub frame where the collector will sit. Drivers side similar, but front two pipes go down and out the bottom, and rear two out the inner fender well and all meet up the same way. My engine header tube calculations based on the engine sizing and cam timing formulas brings 2" primaries into a 3" collector with the primaries being 36" long (equal length). The length of the primaries is really lucky, because this gives me som room to snake them all around. The 2" tube is bigger than the calculator came out to, but since 1 7/8 pipe is not as common I just went with 2".
 
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