Engine 5.0 lifter tap until oil pressure gets up. Adjustment possible?

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I used trans fluid to 'clean' carbon from used engine when I worked at a junk yard back when I was a kid, dribbled it down the carb while at a high idle, smoked like a wet forest fire, I still don't know what 'woo wee' means but I never mixed gas with the trans fluid either.
Dumping it down the carb throat IS mixing it with gas
WooWee simply means it burns real good!
Type F won't burn with just a match
 
At 66 years old with HIgh blood pressure the hangovers are killer now and last 3 days... Not much alcohol consumed here anymore.... Enjoy your youth...
 
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Marvel mystery oil, it's still a mystery, like who took the bone from the watermelon and put it in the fruit salad.
 
Theres a technique to setting the preload in a pedestal mount type valvetrain but it isnt easy.

You take the setup and torque bolts to specs. Give time for lifters to bleed if already ran.

Using the valvecover edge mark the pushrods using a very sharpened pencil. The thinner the line the better in this instance.

Take rocker arm bolts and loosen them and stop when pushrods are at zero lash and draw another line............

Remove pushrod and measure the distance..........If within specs of .030" +/- .010" youre golden.....

If not get longer pushrods and the right thickness of shims under the pedestals to put it them in range..............

Good Luck
 
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That's an interesting way to go. My problem is properly determining the zero lash moment. It took multiple times and different " You'll be at zero lash when..." advice steps to get my 298 really close. But I still think that needs a little bit more.

You'd think there was a fool proof, everyone agrees "This is the way to find the Zero Lash. " method.
 
The zero lash is easy to determine with the engine running and the valve covers off or a modified vale cover (one the top has been cut off)
You loosen the rocker 5/8 nut and it starts clacking like F76k. You then start tightening the nut slowly.
As soon as the clacking stops that is zero lash. Than you can add the 3/4 turn down or whatever
 
You guys do know I would hope that to try to turn your conventional hyd. lifters into the anti pump up type is to only add 1/4 turn down?
That leaves the plunger in the lifter bore near the top. Where, at high rpm and high oil pressure and when the lifter would normally start to float...
It cant float much because the plunger is closer to the top already.
So you would see old budget hotrodders only go 1/4 turn down from zero lash
 
My 289 is at 3/4 after zero and I think it may need another 1/8th. But I didn't set it while running. " Rotate the push rod with oil on your fingers and slowly tighten until you just can't rotate it anymore."

I thought about using the cutout valve covers, but I didn't want to clean the engine bay after the job was done.
 
Yes the pushrods are easy to rotate with the engine running even with a gloved hand (they rotate and stop then rotate and stop)
The cutout valve covers is the way to keep your engine compartment clean (at least it helps)
If you have a high volume oil pump or big oil pressure it's worse for shooting oil over the fenders and on to the car in the next stall
In that case some people modify a set of valve covers and just cut 8 holes with a holesaw over where the valve adjusting nuts are
 
Pedestal mount and stud mounted rockers are two different types of rockers, stock pedestal mount are (for the most part) are usually not adjusted, stud mount are.
Have you done anything with this lifter tap?
Tried any of the suggestions?