5.0 to GT40 upgrade. Which MAF, plugs and coil? Using A9L and 19lb injectors

LawsonP

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To be honest, that port wide open could be the source of all your issues. It’s letting unmetered air into the engine under load, which would make it lean under load and then rich at idle.
I will get that closed and sealed. Some part is missing there. Any photos of what should be there? I'll just RTV if necessary, but something more permanent would be great.
 
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Mustang5L5

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Normally that nipple is a tight press fit into the throttle body. I’ve sometimes used JBweld to secure loose ones

7EA3B850-F920-4788-9F78-8A3953DBF711.jpeg
 
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LawsonP

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Ok, the big
That is a 94-95 MAF. It works fine with a9x and 19# injectors. I run the same MAF.



However, this is not helping

23EEF67F-79F8-41D7-B659-C573BAC1637F.jpeg
Ok, the big hole has been remedied. I pulled that elbow and carefully removed all the rtv gasket. I cleaned the metal with carb cleaner and carefully sanded everything. I could not find a replacement elbow, so JB Weld was my solution. Very clean, well sealed. Should be permanent. The blue was an old quick fix that I had not recognized as an ongoing problem. Check that one off.
 

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LawsonP

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To be honest, that port wide open could be the source of all your issues. It’s letting unmetered air into the engine under load, which would make it lean under load and then rich at idle.
I know there are other gaps in the system, but I am encouraged that the unmetered air would cause rich idle and lean under load.
BBK/Edelbrock throttle body?
does it have the dreaded BBK whistle?
no whistle I’ve heard?
 

LawsonP

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So, any comments on the codes pulled? At this moment I have disconnected the battery and will go fill the tank and put some miles on and see how the mpg does.
 

Mustang5L5

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So, any comments on the codes pulled? At this moment I have disconnected the battery and will go fill the tank and put some miles on and see how the mpg does.

Typical codes seen on an EGR and smog delete car.



If this was my car, i'd repair that vac port on the throttle body, and then smoke test the entire system looking for additional vaccum leaks.

Once you are sure you've got them all, erase the codes, drive a bit and run them again. Most of the codes you have are not going to cause your issue. The EGR codes could, but vac leaks definitely will. Since we can see one big one, and you suspect you have more, i recommend you fix those first and then go to the next item on the list.

And code readers spitting out an engine ID of having 6 cylinders is common. Just ignore it.
 
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LawsonP

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Typical codes seen on an EGR and smog delete car.



If this was my car, i'd repair that vac port on the throttle body, and then smoke test the entire system looking for additional vaccum leaks.

Once you are sure you've got them all, erase the codes, drive a bit and run them again. Most of the codes you have are not going to cause your issue. The EGR codes could, but vac leaks definitely will. Since we can see one big one, and you suspect you have more, i recommend you fix those first and then go to the next item on the list.

And code readers spitting out an engine ID of having 6 cylinders is common. Just ignore it.
Thanks. I have JB weld fixed the throttle body leak. When it was running poorly I sprayed carb cleaner all over the top of the engine. Under the intake. Anywhere I could spray. There were no other leaks.

This afternoon I disconnected the battery and turned on the lights for about an hour. COMPLETE drain of any residual electrical. Probably overkill, but why not. I also filled the tank and I’m putting on some miles to check MPG in a few days.

It does feel like it’s running smoother and stronger.

Thanks for the 6 cyl comment. I wondered.

I read that all my error codes are considered soft codes and won’t affect the spark/fuel system.

I read about putting an EGR back on, but I think that would include an air pump, plus I recall my intake was not able to use EGR because of a missing or blocked hole. Over my head at the moment, but worth the effort? Guessing no.

I was going to have someone dyno the engine and fix codes, but kind of pricey for me. Others have suggested a added chip, but others say they are just preset, so doesn’t sound like a solution. The most reasonable thing I’ve read was using a clone computer to transfer all data to a new ECU and then use a computer to manually make changes, however I would not know what settings to target for improvement. Bear in mind this is an 89 block with ported GT40 heads, explorer intake, new cam. I wouldn’t know where to begin, which throws me back to the dyno people and their expertise. In the meantime I’m just trying to get all the components on the same page. Look for the obvious. Vacuum leaks. Sensors operating out of range. But I think they are all solid now.

I think some fine tuning is needed, but I’m afraid of what I might accidentally do wrong and blow up the engine! I have all the specs, the cam, the diameter of the throttle body and MAF. How much flow likely going through the ported heads. So I have some good info, just not the understanding of the system.

Well, I’ll see what a few days may show. Check codes again, mileage, and report back. Thanks for your contribution. I feel good I really sealed up that throttle body elbow.
 

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Mustang5L5

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Can’t respond as well as I’d like to on my phone. But I’ll type what I can.

Carb cleaner is an effective way to find vac leaks, but smoke test is a better method. If you suspect any leaks beyond this, I would recommend building a cheap smoke machine and trying that method. It is more effective.

Most of your codes are soft codes. The EGR codes are hard codes that do trigger the cel and will turn off the EGR function in the ECU. While the car does change how it runs, the ECU is properly compensating. If you don’t mind the cel, you can run this way.

Later explorer intakes lack the central EGR port. Early intakes have it. If you have a pic from the front of the intake I can identify it. EGR is separate from the air pump. Two different systems. So if you were to put it back on you do not need to add the air pump.

To properly delete the egr you will need a tune to shut off the cel. Off-the-shelf tunes may or may not have this. You’ll need to dig into the actual tune to see what it does but for the most part those tunes aren’t really worth it.


Edit: your explorer intake looks like the early model. If you really want to add the EGR you can just unbolt it and lift the upper up to see if it has the center EGR hole on both the upper and lower
 

KRUISR

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Edit: your explorer intake looks like the early model.
I agree the OP has the early internal EGR type Explorer intake. For those that don't know the quick way to identify, here is a pic off the internet of the later non-EGR style.

MVC-384F_JPG.jpg
Non-EGR type have the notch along the bottom just after the inlet as shown here.

IMG_0656.jpg
This is my EGR style where the inlet is level across with no notch, just like the OP.
 

LawsonP

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Can’t respond as well as I’d like to on my phone. But I’ll type what I can.

Carb cleaner is an effective way to find vac leaks, but smoke test is a better method. If you suspect any leaks beyond this, I would recommend building a cheap smoke machine and trying that method. It is more effective.

Most of your codes are soft codes. The EGR codes are hard codes that do trigger the cel and will turn off the EGR function in the ECU. While the car does change how it runs, the ECU is properly compensating. If you don’t mind the cel, you can run this way.

Later explorer intakes lack the central EGR port. Early intakes have it. If you have a pic from the front of the intake I can identify it. EGR is separate from the air pump. Two different systems. So if you were to put it back on you do not need to add the air pump.

To properly delete the egr you will need a tune to shut off the cel. Off-the-shelf tunes may or may not have this. You’ll need to dig into the actual tune to see what it does but for the most part those tunes aren’t really worth it.


Edit: your explorer intake looks like the early model. If you really want to add the EGR you can just unbolt it and lift the upper up to see if it has the center EGR hole on both the upper and lower
As I recall there is a hole in the intake manifold, but the upper intake did not have the hole, so this effectively closed of the EGR system. I was just curious if it's worth getting a different upper intake and putting the EGR back into the system. I recall there was some type of plate I used on the throttle body, but don't recall 100%. See photos of my intake below. Based on your photos it seems I don't have the notch. I guess I don't know exactly where the EGR connects and runs or what I am running. I just recall there was an opening in one and not the other. Perhaps it was the other way around and the intake was non EGR. If you have any idea, I'd appreciate the direction. Thanks.

I did get that leak on the intake sealed up well. I am now getting 12mpg, so much better than 8.3. The engine seems to run cleaner and stronger. At this point I would ask, what might I consider next? The EGR?
 

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LawsonP

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I agree the OP has the early internal EGR type Explorer intake. For those that don't know the quick way to identify, here is a pic off the internet of the later non-EGR style.

MVC-384F_JPG.jpg
Non-EGR type have the notch along the bottom just after the inlet as shown here.

IMG_0656.jpg
This is my EGR style where the inlet is level across with no notch, just like the OP.
I'm pretty sure I have the Early Explorer upper intake. Not sure about the lower, if there is a difference. So in my mind it would seem that I should be able to reconnect an EGR, but is that helpful? Useful? Seems to me I put some type of EGR block off plate on, but it's been so long ago I don't recall specifics. But if the upper and lower intake came from the same vehicle, then the "plumbing/venting" should exist to connect the EGR. I think I saw them on Ebay for like about $40 or so. Just not sure if it would be worth the effort or the cost. Curious your thoughts. Thanks. Oh, the attached photos were something I came across from when I was trying to understand the differences 7 years ago.
 

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Mustang5L5

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With the CEL on displaying a code for the EGR, then the function is turned off for the EGR. Only way it would affect how the vehicle runs now is if there is a vacuum leak as a result of the method used to delete it.

Outside of that, running the EGR is a different debate all together with varied opinions. With the stock ECU there is really nothing to gain by deleting it. Being that it already is, you can do your due dilligence in deciding if putting it back is the right thing for you to do.

The EGR and charcoal canister are the only two emmissions items I have functional on my car.
 
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KRUISR

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I'm pretty sure I have the Early Explorer upper intake. Not sure about the lower, if there is a difference.
If you have an EGR upper, it does not matter which lower you have, your car will run. If you have an non-EGR upper and an EGR lower, you will have an exhaust leak between the manifolds.

Looking at the lowers, the only visual difference is the port in the middle.

IMG_0363.JPG IMG_0650.JPG
 
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LawsonP

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If you have an EGR upper, it does not matter which lower you have, your car will run. If you have an non-EGR upper and an EGR lower, you will have an exhaust leak between the manifolds.

Looking at the lowers, the only visual difference is the port in the middle.

IMG_0363.JPG IMG_0650.JPG
I’ll see if I can find notes or photos of the build. I think I took a couple along the way. Seems I would have had a matching upper and lower from an explorer. The heads were ported GT40 heads, not GT40p. Then the 94 cobra throttle body and the 65mm explorer mass air. I have read EGR arguments and I recall there being no reason to remove it from the stock system. But with it gone, is it worth connecting back up? I do believe I recall that it would fund less.

OH YEAH!!! Something important I wanted to share. If I get on the engine I get one of two smells. 1. Was gas fumes with an almost spray paint kind of smell. I haven’t painted anything fresh, so not sure the source. 2. There was a very distinct smell of sulfur on heavy acceleration the other day. Happened only once so far, but smelled like a strike anywhere match. Now this is an open vehicle. So perhaps it was external from another vehicle, but not my initial impression. I’ll see if it happens again.
 

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If you have an EGR upper, it does not matter which lower you have, your car will run. If you have an non-EGR upper and an EGR lower, you will have an exhaust leak between the manifolds.

Looking at the lowers, the only visual difference is the port in the middle.

IMG_0363.JPG IMG_0650.JPG
There is another slight difference. Early internal EGR intakes have a provision for the air charge temperature sensor in the #5 intake runner just like the standard 5.0 lower intake. This provision was eliminated on the non-EGR intakes.

Explorer Intake vac line diagram.jpg LowInt.jpg
 

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A sulfur smell is often from a bad catalytic convertor. If you are running the stock cats and no smog air pump, that is a likely cause of that odor. A skunk and Taco Bell consumption are other likely olfactory offenders.
 
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