Brakes 5-Lug Conversion E-Brake - Sucks

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
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Oregon City
I did a 5 lug conversion years ago, but then slowly started following and replacing part with the LMR 5-lug conversion.

>I don't remember what cable runs to the rear calipers. Might be the 94 and new stuff, but not sure.
>Rear disc brakes with 11.65" rotors.
>New calipers
>New rear pads
>Adjustable e-brake cable (following the LMR channel method)
> tightened the adjustable cable until the rear brakes start to drag

Still when I pull the handle in the car it doesn't do much. Like, it is completely worthless.... What am I missing to make this thing work better?
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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Interested in the response here as well! I just did the conversion on mine..... bought the LMR cables that hook to the rear discs, but can not get the brake to grab and hold consistently.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Mar 2, 2015
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The handle has an automatic adjuster mechanism that people forget to lock out before doing the brake cables. It's a ratcheting mechanism. Easiest to do with the center console removed. You need to set the handle to the proper gear tooth in the e brake handle mechanism. There is a hole in the side that will line up so you can use a nail or small screw driver to lock it in place.

This is a sn95 brake handle and a fox handle. You can see the hole on the cam. You want as much tension on the spring as possible. It's hard to ratchet it back up once it's been released all the way down. The spring is strong. If I remember correctly there is a way to wedge a flat head down in there to carefully move the tooth wheel with the handle button pressed.

Screenshot_20211218-000312_Chrome.jpg


I wish I could remember the exact process. I installed a sn95 handle in my car when I went with cobra rear brakes and IRS. That way I used the whole sn95 system. Had to drill the cable bracket off a sn95 and bolt it in my transmission tunnel the same distance back as it was in the sn95. Now my cables all match without mismatching or needing special parts. There's a black metal box revised to the tunnel that the consol screws to. This box has to be ground down to clear the longer sn95 mounting pad. There is a write up here somewhere about cutting the sn95 handle mounting pad and rewelding the ear on so it's the same length and bolts in just like a fox handle. I didn't know about that when I did mine. I had to drill a hole further back to bolt mine in.

More than likely, you can crank that pawl down so you can get more pull on the cable. If you aren't getting the brake to hold there has to be slack. Check between the cable bracket in the tunnel and the hand brake cable.

Another thing to note is that if the rear calipers aren't bled and pumped up the distance between the pad and rotor will keep the e brake from working. Had this issue years ago with a car on stands. That little cam on the caliper only turns the caliper piston out a small amount.
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
3,089
2,336
143
Long Island, NY
The handle has an automatic adjuster mechanism that people forget to lock out before doing the brake cables. It's a ratcheting mechanism. Easiest to do with the center console removed. You need to set the handle to the proper gear tooth in the e brake handle mechanism. There is a hole in the side that will line up so you can use a nail or small screw driver to lock it in place.

This is a sn95 brake handle and a fox handle. You can see the hole on the cam. You want as much tension on the spring as possible. It's hard to ratchet it back up once it's been released all the way down. The spring is strong. If I remember correctly there is a way to wedge a flat head down in there to carefully move the tooth wheel with the handle button pressed.

Screenshot_20211218-000312_Chrome.jpg


I wish I could remember the exact process. I installed a sn95 handle in my car when I went with cobra rear brakes and IRS. That way I used the whole sn95 system. Had to drill the cable bracket off a sn95 and bolt it in my transmission tunnel the same distance back as it was in the sn95. Now my cables all match without mismatching or needing special parts. There's a black metal box revised to the tunnel that the consol screws to. This box has to be ground down to clear the longer sn95 mounting pad. There is a write up here somewhere about cutting the sn95 handle mounting pad and rewelding the ear on so it's the same length and bolts in just like a fox handle. I didn't know about that when I did mine. I had to drill a hole further back to bolt mine in.

More than likely, you can crank that pawl down so you can get more pull on the cable. If you aren't getting the brake to hold there has to be slack. Check between the cable bracket in the tunnel and the hand brake cable.

Another thing to note is that if the rear calipers aren't bled and pumped up the distance between the pad and rotor will keep the e brake from working. Had this issue years ago with a car on stands. That little cam on the caliper only turns the caliper piston out a small amount.
I have the threaded rod and nut adjustment on my ‘86. Would that also have that hole to “lock it out”. Or is the ‘86 a completely different set up?
 
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2000xp8

SN Certified Technician
Aug 8, 2003
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See if this helps. I have the ford part, but haven't installed it yet. It's only been in a box for a few years.
But my E brake hasn't really given me any trouble in stock form.

 

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
153
6
28
Oregon City
See if this helps. I have the ford part, but haven't installed it yet. It's only been in a box for a few years.
But my E brake hasn't really given me any trouble in stock form.


I’m confused what the difference is between his install and LMRs install?

Maybe I need to replace the parking brake cables going to the calipers?

E-Brake Install Here.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
3,089
2,336
143
Long Island, NY
is the 5 lug conversion E-brake cable the same as the factory mustang fox E-brake cable?
The connection on the wheel side is different from my understanding.
I bought the cable from LMR that were specific for going to rear disc, so I think I’m good there. Now I just have to figure out how to get it to grab tighter. It grabs, but not enough!!
Good luck with your project!!
 

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
153
6
28
Oregon City
The connection on the wheel side is different from my understanding.
I bought the cable from LMR that were specific for going to rear disc, so I think I’m good there. Now I just have to figure out how to get it to grab tighter. It grabs, but not enough!!
Good luck with your project!!

Do you have the part number for those cables? I only need the cables not the adjuster that connects to the E-brake handle.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
3,089
2,336
143
Long Island, NY

KRUISR

5 Year Member
Apr 16, 2015
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The link above are for cables that would use the fox routing (including the football guides).

I modified a handle from a 2000 V6 and bought cables for a '95 V6/V8. The reason I did that is I did not have to modify the spring, just the rear mounting pad moved forward an inch. I fabricated a tunnel bracket just like what SN's have for the front mount for the cables. All works great.

IMG_0551.JPG IMG_0443.JPG
 

Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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Feb 18, 2001
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So one issue might be tension in the cable. Put the rear on jackstands and adjust tension until the rear wheels drag and periodically start the engine and put it in gear to check.

After that, have someone pull the parking brake up while you position yourself under the car (engine off) and watch the levers on the calipers. When they pull the lever, watch to see that the levers move a proportional amount. Sometimes under full force, the cables can bend in such a way that doesn’t transmit all the motion to the lever on the caliper.

The LMR method is fine. I wish they would mention the oem bracket lock that is available vs welding the handle. The benefit of the oem lock is you can readjust tension if ever needed from inside the car, vs permanently locking it and having to crawl under the car.

FYI when I did my setup, I had to retighten the cable 3 times as it would stretch slightly and lose its effexticeness. I never park the car with the parking brake on in my garage, so the stretching was just from sitting in the relaxed position. After the final time, I could park my car on a slope and it would hold fine. First time….no way.

Also, just to add. Rear parking brake effectiveness also depends on the pads and rotors being properly bedded in. If they are new, they might slip a tad.

It is possible to get a really good parking brake with this setup. My 2003 GT would lock the rear wheels up if I gave it a good yank at 20mph. I used to park on some serious i inclines and forget to put the trans in gear and come back after 2 days and it was fine. I definitely trusted that brake and it was that effective the day I bought the car (new) until the day I sold it 5 years later.

My fox brake isn’t as good, but it does not need to be. Still, it works quite well.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
3,089
2,336
143
Long Island, NY
FYI when I did my setup, I had to retighten the cable 3 times as it would stretch slightly and lose its effexticeness. I never park the car with the parking brake on in my garage, so the stretching was just from sitting in the relaxed position. After the final time, I could park my car on a slope and it would hold fine. First time….no way.
Maybe this is what I’m dealing with right now? Because there have been times it did hold the car on the driveway!
 

nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
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I got my cables from oreillys,for a 93 cobra,they fit perfect with the 95 brackets I got from pic a part. Also from pic a part I got a e-brake small bracket that you screw into e brake handle piece and it fixed the self adjust thingie. My e brake hold my car on hills with no issues.
 
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Mustang5L5

Put lubricant all over the balls
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Feb 18, 2001
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That was with the original Ford branded cables (M-2809 and 2810-a) as well. They would hold and then a few weeks later wouldnt do Jack.

I do not know who builds the LMR cables, but it’s possible that they just have a lot of initial stretch.
 

nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
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The Oreilly ones I got still work great, and I'm sure I use it more then just about anyone here.( Daily driven 14+ years,and still going strong)
Also I used the guts out of a 95 proportion valve since there is no definitive adjustment for aftermarket ones,and Ford put the r&d into it already.
 

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
153
6
28
Oregon City
The Oreilly ones I got still work great, and I'm sure I use it more then just about anyone here.( Daily driven 14+ years,and still going strong)
Also I used the guts out of a 95 proportion valve since there is no definitive adjustment for aftermarket ones,and Ford put the r&d into it already.

Interesting. What’s the PN for the O’reilly ones?
 

nickyb

WAIT,you now have a pair?
10 Year Member
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Wish my memory was that good.I do remember walking in and ordering two cables,and when they came in they were from two different vendors. They looked exactly the same so they went in. Next time I'm in that Oreilleys I'll have them look up what I bought.
 

Swhitney

Active Member
Feb 11, 2019
153
6
28
Oregon City
So one issue might be tension in the cable. Put the rear on jackstands and adjust tension until the rear wheels drag and periodically start the engine and put it in gear to check.

After that, have someone pull the parking brake up while you position yourself under the car (engine off) and watch the levers on the calipers. When they pull the lever, watch to see that the levers move a proportional amount. Sometimes under full force, the cables can bend in such a way that doesn’t transmit all the motion to the lever on the caliper.

The LMR method is fine. I wish they would mention the oem bracket lock that is available vs welding the handle. The benefit of the oem lock is you can readjust tension if ever needed from inside the car, vs permanently locking it and having to crawl under the car.

FYI when I did my setup, I had to retighten the cable 3 times as it would stretch slightly and lose its effexticeness. I never park the car with the parking brake on in my garage, so the stretching was just from sitting in the relaxed position. After the final time, I could park my car on a slope and it would hold fine. First time….no way.

Also, just to add. Rear parking brake effectiveness also depends on the pads and rotors being properly bedded in. If they are new, they might slip a tad.

It is possible to get a really good parking brake with this setup. My 2003 GT would lock the rear wheels up if I gave it a good yank at 20mph. I used to park on some serious i inclines and forget to put the trans in gear and come back after 2 days and it was fine. I definitely trusted that brake and it was that effective the day I bought the car (new) until the day I sold it 5 years later.

My fox brake isn’t as good, but it does not need to be. Still, it works quite well.

I think you might be right. I plan on replacing the cables then doing as you said. When I tensioned the system the first time it seemed to be as you said. So this to me has to be something dumb.