5 lug swap experts....Master cylinder Q????

[EPIK]

I am getting ready to do my 5 lug Cobra front brake swap on my notch & I was curious as to if i have to also change the master cylinder or booster to a 94-95 unit? I am staying with rear drum brakes btw....


Also, would you 5 lug swap experts suggest getting SN95 balljoints, or just running a spacer or washers on the stock fox balljoints? I have no idea if my car needs new balljoints, or if they have been replaced before, but I know the chassis has 172k miles on it.....


Thanks....

 

[snakebite01]

I am getting ready to do my 5 lug Cobra front brake swap on my notch & I was curious as to if i have to also change the master cylinder or booster to a 94-95 unit? I am staying with rear drum brakes btw....


Also, would you 5 lug swap experts suggest getting SN95 balljoints, or just running a spacer or washers on the stock fox balljoints? I have no idea if my car needs new balljoints, or if they have been replaced before, but I know the chassis has 172k miles on it.....


Thanks....

go with new ball joints.. it never hurts to replace them.. (i just had my ball joint brake on me and it wasn't a fun ride.. lol)

i would also upgrade the master cylinder since you will have a 13" rotor and a lot more pressure needed for them, also buy the summit proportioning valve!!!

 

[EPIK]

go with new ball joints.. it never hurts to replace them.. (i just had my ball joint brake on me and it wasn't a fun ride.. lol)

i would also upgrade the master cylinder since you will have a 13" rotor and a lot more pressure needed for them, also buy the summit proportioning valve!!!

So i need all that stuff to get these to work properly...I guess it would be a good idea to do the ball joints though....So will all brands (moog, auto zone, Napa etc.) of SN95 ball joints bolt up the same???

 

[Shakerhood]

IMHO the 93 Cobra MC and Booster are your best choice when upgrading your Brakes!

 

[snakebite01]

So i need all that stuff to get these to work properly...I guess it would be a good idea to do the ball joints though....So will all brands (moog, auto zone, Napa etc.) of SN95 ball joints bolt up the same???

yeah.. the proportioning valve is only $40.. the master cylinder you might be able to find in the junk yard for around $50. you could keep the stock master cylinder but your pedal effort is go to be a lot harder.. your better off just getting either the sn95 master cylinder or the 93-95 cobra master cylinder..either way your brakes will be a lot better than using the stocky.

 

[trbkrb]

FWIW, get the MOOG brand ball joints. Most people say they are much higher quality than the cheaper ones. As for the MC, a few guys on here have kept the stockers with Cobra fronts & rear drums. Their brakes worked OK, but it probably would be better to upgrade.

 

[EPIK]

Well i was hoping I was going to be able to get away without doing the MC swap, & getting new balljoints, but I guess I have to add it to the list... As far as the PV, do i really need it even with rear drums??? I am almost at my limit cash wise @ this point & Xmas is coming up so I need to stop buying $h!t 4 myself & focus on others....

 

[xherdlr]

SN 95 ball joints will work..

Kelly

 

[snakebite01]

FWIW, get the MOOG brand ball joints. Most people say they are much higher quality than the cheaper ones. As for the MC, a few guys on here have kept the stockers with Cobra fronts & rear drums. Their brakes worked OK, but it probably would be better to upgrade.

the moog brand is the ****!!! the quality is outstanding.. and it looks nice because it's gold on the bottom.. lmao

Well i was hoping I was going to be able to get away without doing the MC swap, & getting new balljoints, but I guess I have to add it to the list... As far as the PV, do i really need it even with rear drums??? I am almost at my limit cash wise @ this point & Xmas is coming up so I need to stop buying $h!t 4 myself & focus on others....

you can live with out doing the master cylinder and pv.. but definitely get the ball joints and as soon as you get the money buy the mc and pv.. once you upgrade it you will love how much better it feels..

 

[Mustang5L5]

I would do the MC and PV.

Even with drums, you have nostock brakes on the car and need to adjust it. Plus later down the line, you can easily add disk brakes and you already have it setup to go.

As for the MC...93 cobra, or 94-95 GT/V6 or 94-95 Cobra. 99+ V6's have a 1" bore like the '93 cobra, but the threading is different so you'll need to change the fittings that go into it.

For booster...93 cobra or any 94-95 booster

 

[FoxBodyGT]

I did the swap without changing out the MC/Booster. I autocrossed my car for a full season plus did some track days. No problems. I'm going to do the rears this winter so I will have to do the booster/mc now I guess.

 

[snakebite01]

I would do the MC and PV.

Even with drums, you have nostock brakes on the car and need to adjust it. Plus later down the line, you can easily add disk brakes and you already have it setup to go.

As for the MC...93 cobra, or 94-95 GT/V6 or 94-95 Cobra. 99+ V6's have a 1" bore like the '93 cobra, but the threading is different so you'll need to change the fittings that go into it.

For booster...93 cobra or any 94-95 booster

IMO the booster is unnecessary. but to each his own.. mc/pv i think would be just fine..

 

[EPIK]

Thanks for all the info guys... I think for now, i will just do the SN95 ball joints. I will see how the brakes feel @ 1st & if I dont like it, i will swap out the MC, booster, & PV...

I only drive the car a few times a month anyway...

 

[Shakerhood]

Thanks for all the info guys... I think for now, i will just do the SN95 ball joints. I will see how the brakes feel @ 1st & if I dont like it, i will swap out the MC, booster, & PV...

I only drive the car a few times a month anyway...

It is Cheaper, Easier, and Less Expensive to do it right the 1st time out, doing the MC, Booster, and PV will only help you!

 

[Mustang5L5]

Here's my view on the PV anyway.

Even with stock brakes, i'd run an adjustable. Reason being we put nice fat tires on the rear. The car was set with 225's in mind. When you have 285's out back, you cna get away with a little more rear braking force.

 

[magnj]

~hijack

I'm doing 99+ gt/v6 fronts, drums in the rear...will I be ok if I don't do mc/booster/prop?

 

[snakebite01]

Thanks for all the info guys... I think for now, i will just do the SN95 ball joints. I will see how the brakes feel @ 1st & if I dont like it, i will swap out the MC, booster, & PV...


I only drive the car a few times a month anyway...

your fine with what your doing.. you won't mess anything up by doing it that way.. just when you get the money upgrade you mc/pv.. the booster is not necessary.. i would only upgrade the booster if you ever switch to a cobra wilwood, ss, or brembo brake set up because you will need that booster to get the full potential out of them.. good luck and post some pics as you do it..

It is Cheaper, Easier, and Less Expensive to do it right the 1st time out, doing the MC, Booster, and PV will only help you!

how?? i'm not here to argue but he's not going to hurt anything by not upgrading that stuff right now..

Here's my view on the PV anyway.

Even with stock brakes, i'd run an adjustable. Reason being we put nice fat tires on the rear. The car was set with 225's in mind. When you have 285's out back, you cna get away with a little more rear braking force.

+1

~hijack

I'm doing 99+ gt/v6 fronts, drums in the rear...will I be ok if I don't do mc/booster/prop?

you will be ok but you should upgrade the mc/pv.. it will make everything feel perfect

 

[magnj]

you will be ok but you should upgrade the mc/pv.. it will make everything feel perfect

I guess we'll see where I'm at $ wise, this project is getting expensive fast!

 

[snakebite01]

I guess we'll see where I'm at $ wise, this project is getting expensive fast!

happens all the time to every project.. you hardly ever get away with spending a small amount of loot... every project has "unexpected" costs that are always hidden

 

[magnj]

happens all the time to every project.. you hardly ever get away with spending a small amount of loot... every project has "unexpected" costs that are always hidden

When I first researched this upgrade last year I knew I'd have to do the MC, but I totally forgot when I started buying parts last week.

Could I do the proportioning valve only or would that be stupid?