5 lug swap experts....Master cylinder Q????

Also thinking of doing springs at the same time because I know it's gonna look like a monster truck and i don't want to have to pull it apart twice. Looking to do autoX and occasional dd duty...any suggestions?
 
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When I first researched this upgrade last year I knew I'd have to do the MC, but I totally forgot when I started buying parts last week. :shrug:

Could I do the proportioning valve only or would that be stupid?

you could but that's wouldn't be the best thing to do.. if you CAN AFFORD to the mc/pv than do it.. if not than just do the pv but when you get the money than do the mc..

Also thinking of doing springs at the same time because I know it's gonna look like a monster truck and i don't want to have to pull it apart twice. Looking to do autoX and occasional dd duty...any suggestions?

my plan with my car is to do autoX as well. my plan is to put a irs setup in my car with a full maximum motorsports coil over setup... right now on my car i have eibach sportline springs and i absolutely love them.. my car is a dd and i don't have any problems with the eibachs.. they lower are cars perfectly!!! i have had H & R super sports, eibach pro kit, and eibach sportlines and they are my absolute favorite.. i also have maximum motorsports caster camber plates and monroe sensa trac struts...

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I hear u guys about doing things right the 1st time...Thats almost always my view on my projects, but being that this 5 lug swap thing is adding up pretty fast, & with Xmas right around the corner, i gotta stop buying stuff for myself & think of others for a change... View attachment 290940 View attachment 290942 View attachment 290944

Since it wont hurt anything to leave out the MC/ PV/Booster swap, I will just upgrade after Xmas if I dont like the way the brakes feel, unless I win the lottery within the next few weeks... Besides, I still need to buy an install kit for my 3.73's, & balljoints 1st...
 
you could but that's wouldn't be the best thing to do.. if you CAN AFFORD to the mc/pv than do it.. if not than just do the pv but when you get the money than do the mc..



my plan with my car is to do autoX as well. my plan is to put a irs setup in my car with a full maximum motorsports coil over setup... right now on my car i have eibach sportline springs and i absolutely love them.. my car is a dd and i don't have any problems with the eibachs.. they lower are cars perfectly!!! i have had H & R super sports, eibach pro kit, and eibach sportlines and they are my absolute favorite.. i also have maximum motorsports caster camber plates and monroe sensa trac struts...

Nice ride, sounds like you have a lot of work ahead of you! Now I did a little reading...I want progressive I think. My ride is pretty stiff as it is, I don't really want it getting any worse, you know how bad the roads are here :nonono:.

EPIK said:
I hear u guys about doing things right the 1st time...Thats almost always my view on my projects, but being that this 5 lug swap thing is adding up pretty fast, & with Xmas right around the corner, i gotta stop buying stuff for myself & think of others for a change...

I feel that too, I don't think it will be a huge deal if I do it in two steps anyway...it's almost two separate projects to begin with.
 
you dont NEED the mc/booster. but it would be nice to have. especially if you go to rear disk later. because trust me, youll be tired of seeing those huge front brakes and the tiny rear drums.

ide go with the 93 cobra mc/booster, its a little easier to install, but still not a picnic. if you like a soft pedal, go with the 94/95 stuff.
 
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra brake boosters are the same.
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra master cylinders are different, so you need a Cobra M/C.

There is nothing wrong with running the spacers on top of the spindles to space the castle nut upward so the cotter pin is aligned. BUT...if you're car has 172K, replace them. Buy the 94-95 call joints. They press in the FOX LCA's the exact same way. Might as well do new tie rods too while it's apart. Don't want a tie rod breaking sending you into the wall. Also, go with all MOOG parts. They are tight parts and last a long time.
 
+ 10000000




Drums brakes are so 1985 :notnice:

At this point, I could care less what the drum brakes look like in the rear, i just want to get the 5 lug done.... If u guys dont want to se my 1985 drum brakes, u can gladly donate to the cost of the MC/Booster/PV & rear disk setup to the"Epik 5 lug swap fund"...:nice:

94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra brake boosters are the same.
94-95 Mustang GT and Cobra master cylinders are different, so you need a Cobra M/C.

There is nothing wrong with running the spacers on top of the spindles to space the castle nut upward so the cotter pin is aligned. BUT...if you're car has 172K, replace them. Buy the 94-95 call joints. They press in the FOX LCA's the exact same way. Might as well do new tie rods too while it's apart. Don't want a tie rod breaking sending you into the wall. Also, go with all MOOG parts. They are tight parts and last a long time.

So I HAVE to get the 94/95 Cobra only MC/ booster, not the regular 94/95 Mustang MC/Booster???

How much better are the Moog parts over auto zone brands? I can get a deal at auto zone on the duralast ball joints...