5L Clutch/T5 Question

2point3fiend

New Member
Mar 11, 2003
39
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Tampa, FL
I'm looking at buying '86 5.0 with a T5 in it. It grinds on the 2nd gear even with the clutch all the way down to the floor. I am not sure if all the others grind as well or often, however I would like some imput on what could make a T5 grind in only one gear and all the gears. :bang: I am wondering if it's just the clutch cable that needs replacement. if not... then I can always fing a WC T5 in a junkyard for a direct swap, just don't know how much the tranny and swap would be. I really need help with this guys. Thanx :shrug:
 
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I f you have some cash and plan on building the car, pick up a Tremec TKO, or even a 3550 if you are going to keep it under 400 lbft of TQ. If you are broke like my happy a**, then make sure the clutch is adjusted right. Does it have a aftermarket Quadrant/Firewall adjuster, you will want to upgrade this anyway. Usually 3rd and reverse are the weak links on the T-5s. Good Luck
 
If can't find a resonably priced t5 you could always run a t5 from a 4 cylinder car.It will bolt up to your bell housing.You will need to build a pilot bearing thow wich is no big deal.I run one in my 85 GT with success.Just a nother option for you. :shrug:
 
pro5o said:
If can't find a resonably priced t5 you could always run a t5 from a 4 cylinder car.It will bolt up to your bell housing.You will need to build a pilot bearing thow wich is no big deal.I run one in my 85 GT with success.Just a nother option for you. :shrug:
5.0 liter V8 = rated at 300 ft/lbs. torque (slightly less for 85')
2.3 T5 = rated at 240 ft/lbs. MAX torque capacity

See a problem? If you can seriously avoid it, don't do it this way. But if you do, be sure you drive it like you would a wheel chair :nice:
I knew a few guys that decided to do that - something will give out sooner or later is all I have to say.

Just one gear grinding = worn out synchros for that gear
all gears = clutch not disengaging
 
It's just worn out synchros for that gear. Each gear has a blocker ring of it's own that lines up the gear. When the teeth start to round, you get the grinding.

Rebuild kits are like $160. If you are mechanicaly inclinded you can rebuild it in a weekend
 
Yeah but... I'm NOT THAT mechanically inclined, nor do I have the area to do a tranny drop around here in very much city-ordinenced sunny Tampa... I suppose I would be better off seeing if I can find a used tranny minus bellhousing from a yard around here if the synchro is the case. :bang:
 
The 4 cylinder trainy was just another option.If the guy is running a basically stock car the small trainny should last awhile.Like I said I run one in my car and yes I do replace it once a year.But I also race it and my car is producing 280 horse and 290 torque at the wheels.I don't know were buddy is living but around here for a used v8 trainy it's about 700 bucks and how many v8 trainys have had a easy life.For 150 bucks you can get a 4 banger trainny and last awhile.Ofcource the plain would be to buy an aftermarket trains but it's not in my budget.Again it was just aanother option. :D
 
2point3fiend said:
Would it be the synchro of the 2nd gear if the car is at idle and I tried shifting it with the clutch all the way down? Does it happen at idle is what I need to know. Sorry should have posted that earlier.

The synchro is pretty complex. I mean it's a simple concept but there are a few things that could wear/break on it.

You really don't know what part failed until you open the case up. The shift fork could be bent, the blocker rings could be worn, the synchro itself could be worn (although this would give you probs in 2 and 1).

At idle the trans is not spinning so most of the time it will go into gear fine. Sometimes not. If it does it every single time it could very well possible be the 1-2 shift fork.

Anyway my point is you can't be 100% sure which part of the trans failed til you have a peek inside