61 Year Old New Guy

4Qts

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Dec 11, 2021
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Hey there, I discovered StangNet when I was searching for Ignition Starter Relay wiring info. So, being the New Guy, I assume there some Gals here too, I'll just start by saying I bought a '65 Convertible about six months ago and so far, I have had to get her road ready before I could really have any fun. To date - I have installed Disc Brakes on the front, replaced the 2-barrel carb with a 4-barrel Holly (previous Owner for some reason removed the original A-Code 4-barrel), installed shocks all around, gave it a badly needed tune-up, replaced the fuel pump, flushed all fluids and now the car is running well but, as with any Classic - there is a never ending list of things to do.
 
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4Qts

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Dec 11, 2021
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The Chrome all around is in good condition although, I suspect most of the exterior was replaced when the car was repainted about 27-years ago. The story behind this is, AJ was Caspian Blue when she left the Michigan plant. The second Owner whom I bought the car from, was given an ultimatum by his 2nd Wife, either sell the car or, repaint it. He decided to repaint. He invested in a premium paint job thankfully. I have not been able to find any part of this car in its original color. I considered stripping everything down & returning AJ to her original state but, I suspect this may be cost prohibitive. I welcome all thoughts on this.
 
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4Qts

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Dec 11, 2021
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I bought a Dash Cam recently & began to route wiring. I first routed the power cable along the inside lip of the upper windshield trim on my convertible. This was pretty easy. I then tucked 1/4” black foam rubber to conceal and keep the cable from dangling down. I then tucked the cable down the A pillar under the trim at the door window. By the time I got down to the Glove Box it was just a matter of discreetly tucking the single wire between the passenger kick panel & dash. This was the easy part. The Dash Can cable has a plug for the cigarette liter but, I didn’t want to detract the look of the dash. My solution was to install a hidden port in or, under the dash to hide all wiring. Details on this in my next post.
 

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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
Dec 29, 2017
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I bought a Dash Cam recently & began to route wiring. I first routed the power cable along the inside lip of the upper windshield trim on my convertible. This was pretty easy. I then tucked 1/4” black foam rubber to conceal and keep the cable from dangling down. I then tucked the cable down the A pillar under the trim at the door window. By the time I got down to the Glove Box it was just a matter of discreetly tucking the single wire between the passenger kick panel & dash. This was the easy part. The Dash Can cable has a plug for the cigarette liter but, I didn’t want to detract the look of the dash. My solution was to install a hidden port in or, under the dash to hide all wiring. Details on this in my next post.
Nice. Looking forward to see how you do it.
I was just researching a similar thing for a backup camera in my daughters ‘02 F150. I’d like to have the socket go to switched power rather than the constant on that most 12v receptacles are. I’m assuming you’re doing that as well?
 

4Qts

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Dec 11, 2021
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Nice. Looking forward to see how you do it.
I was just researching a similar thing for a backup camera in my daughters ‘02 F150. I’d like to have the socket go to switched power rather than the constant on that most 12v receptacles are. I’m assuming you’re doing that as well?
Sounds like you want to tap onto the Voltage Regulator if you want to power up only when the ignition is on. Since my cable for the Dash Cam uses a Male plug for the liter, I tapped directly to a constant 12v source.
 
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4Qts

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Dec 11, 2021
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Nice. Looking forward to see how you do it.
I was just researching a similar thing for a backup camera in my daughters ‘02 F150. I’d like to have the socket go to switched power rather than the constant on that most 12v receptacles are. I’m assuming you’re doing that as well?
So, while I’m certain I posted part two of my Dash Cam install, I don’t see it in the thread, most likely operator error on my part. Here’s Part Two of two.

I ordered a 12v Lighter Socket from Amazon which came with (2) 6-foot, 14AWG leads and an integrated fuse holder with your choice of 20A or, 25A blade fuse. I’m using the 20A for now.

The dilemma came from how to route the wiring from under the dash through the Firewall and then to the Battery. This is the most direct way of sourcing power needed for the camera. I probably could have gone through the Voltage Regulator but, either way I would still have to get through the Firewall.

To make a long story short, I discovered after a couple days of scratching my head, I am able to phis wire under the right fender near the hood hinge (see photos). The wiring came through the fender near the “A” pillar. I attempted then to feed the wiring through the grommet where the Courtesy Lamp wiring is but, this proved to be rather difficult so, I drilled a new hole, installed a new grommet now was inside the Passenger footwell be-hide the Kick Panel which is very easy to remove.

On my car, the glove box has a small flap on the right side. I believe this might be for another Courtesy Lamp which is not on my car. I decided to route the wiring for the 12v Socket and the Dash Cam in the Glove Box to hide the connections and provide an easy access of I need to disconnect at any time.

This worked out great. I completed the install by using 3/8” Split Loom to route and protect the 14AWG through the engine compartment and fender. You’ll see where I mounted the Split Loom with 5/16”-18 Nylon Lock Nuts from Home Depot (P/N: 208-325).

I hope this is of some help to someone out there, how to feed wiring from the engine compartment to the interior, perhaps not for a Dash Cam but, for some other accessory.

Happy Motoring
 

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