65 Mustang 289 w/A/C Converting Stock Radiator to Aluminum

dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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Don appreciate your input and all these things have been replaced along with doing a chemical flush which showed no blockage. Also set the timing and the advanced timing had a leak so replaced that p[art as well.After all this ran the car 20min and temp jumped to 248. We did do a pressure check on the #1 and 2 cylinders and I have attached the readings which does not look good. Also attached a picture of the 3 plugs we pulled. Don't know that we have much choice at this point but pull the heads unless there is something we missed. The engine has also weakened and not running strong at all anymore. That's where we are at right now. Thanks.
 

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dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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Well I took a final stab at this overheating issue due to the fact we found low compression ratings. I had the heads rebuilt, did a valve job and went ahead and put steel rocker rollers in while we had it apart. Carb was history so replaced it along with new spark plugs. Shop called me and my son in to do a test drive and we drove a mile down the road to get gas and temp shot up to 220 with coolant spewing out. So guys after 2700.00 into this overheating issue we are at a loss to where to go next with this issue. Any input would be appreciated.
 

2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
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Any input would be appreciated.

Shop worked on it and then it overheated immediately ? What did they say?
Was low compression reading from valves or rings?

A partially frozen distributor will cause this.
Backward or leaking head gasket.
vacuum leak, often under manifold with port alignment on milled heads
Lower rad. hose collapsing when warm with strong draw from pump
Rad. System not burped
 
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dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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Alvin, Texas
Shop worked on it and then it overheated immediately ? What did they say?
Was low compression reading from valves or rings?

A partially frozen distributor will cause this.
Backward or leaking head gasket.
vacuum leak, often under manifold with port alignment on milled heads
Lower rad. hose collapsing when warm with strong draw from pump
Rad. System not burped
 

dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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Alvin, Texas
Yes it was fine idling at the shop but once we got it on the road it got hot and kept dying out . Valves on the compression and rings were in pretty bad shape so they replaced them . We replaced distributor and both hoses. They were going to run a smoke test to see if they detect any vacuum leaks .
 

dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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They did find a vacuum leak in the intake so they are swapping it out to see if that solves the problem. I'm keeping my fingers crossed at this point!
 
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Olivethefet

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So, is the lower hose able to be easily collapsed? It sounds like you had a lot going on and are addressing them. All the lower hoses that I have worked with had a spring in them like the one pictured. If it doesn't then it can collapse when the engine starts spinning the water pump hard. It would work fine just idling and then get hot going down the road. I would at least look at it see if it is part of your problem.
 

dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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So, is the lower hose able to be easily collapsed? It sounds like you had a lot going on and are addressing them. All the lower hoses that I have worked with had a spring in them like the one pictured. If it doesn't then it can collapse when the engine starts spinning the water pump hard. It would work fine just idling and then get hot going down the road. I would at least look at it see if it is part of your problem.
 

dvelek

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Jun 5, 2019
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Yea sure would not hurt to rule that part out. Appreciate the reach out and I sure be glad to get back in saddle again after all this is behind me.
 
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