As
@tos said, if you try to get all your caster from your strut rods, it moves your wheel forward in the fender opening, so it rubs. Also not advised because your oem
LCA bushing will be pulled fwd in a position it wasn't designed to move in. The
LCA bushing already moves in an arc it isn't designed for because of the strut rod's fwd anchor point anyways, and the only real solutions are in the aftermarket. The factory strut rod bushing is the source of major alignment changes during braking (or accel), and if you over tighten the clamshell to reduce this change you increase bind and risk breakage at the front.
This vid is an eye opener:
Strut rod deflection in action video
The key is eliminating all that bind by getting rid of all the bushings and replacing them with bearings, spherical or otherwise components from TCP, Street or Track, Pacific Thunder, Global West, etc. Global West makes a +3 degree caster UCA, which I'm using, that get's you 3 degrees of caster from moving the upper caster axis backwards to keep the wheel more centered, and reduce your issue of rubbing the front fender lip.
If you're on a budget, contact
Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering for the lowest priced HD bearing strut rods and
LCA's I found, but be forewarned, he's a one man band, fellow classic mustang fan, and he builds in batches. His website often says 'sold out', until enough orders are in, then he makes them. Great quality products, nice powdercoating (my optional color shown), chromoly rod ends, all hardware included. Below is his HD lower crossmember that also includes camber lockout plates in the hardware kit. I am no way affiliated, just happy to find someone that makes affordable replacements. Here are parts I've purchased from him: