I have a 67 cougar XR7 and would like to only replace the original fuse block with a blade fuse block. I know that replacing the whole harness with an aftermarket harness is the ideal route but I just want to cut the wires at the fuse block and patch in a blade fuse block. Could someone help me with how the wiring should be routed. Thanks
67 mustang fuse block
- Thread starter Wolfdog59
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wicked93gs
15 Year Member
Not sure what you mean(or why you would want to replace Bus fuses with blade fuses...there is no advantage...and it can be argued that you can do a safer emergency bypass of a bus fuse with tinfoil than you ever could with a blade type). regardless of the fuse block you get a fuse is just an interruption in a circuit...one wire in, one wire out for each circuit.
Yes. The fuse block in the car is located in a very tough spot to access. was With the seats out it was still a pain to get at. Thinking of installing the “light up” blade fuses so its easier to identify if blown. see the image attached. Confused on how the daisy-chained circuits would be installed in a new waterproof blade fuse box. I am fairly New to electrical and taking advantage of the working from home to try to upgrade. Only 5 bus fuses in original. Is it as simple as cutting the wires, attaching the power in and circuit wires and ground? Thanks for bearing with me as I’m sure this is painful for someone who knows electrical. Have googled and can’t believe no one has done this before.
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wicked93gs
15 Year Member
The emergency lights are fused off the cigarette lighter fuse? How bizarre. Anyway, the only thing I see is that there are a couple fuses that use the same input power source...in particular cigarette lighter and courtesy fuses are both drawing from the same input power, as are the radio and heater switch(ignition switch power source there). So assuming you don't want to change things too much, just retain those 2 multi-fuse power sources for the new block....as for running multiple circuits off a single fuse(like emergency lights and cigarette lighter as an example) that is an absolute garbage setup...do you want your flashers not to work if you blow a cigarette lighter fuse plugging in an air pump? Here is what I would do if it were me:
1. Run a different fuse for each and every circuit...there is absolutely no reason for multiple circuits to run off the same fuse.
2. Because you are running a separate fuse for each circuit, you will need to add input power....to do this, run a small power distribution block like this:
www.audiolegionusa.com
These distribution blocks meant for car audio are useful...you input a given feed of whatever gauge and split the output into however many wires you need to power each fused circuit.....so one block would have an input from the ignition switch(just like the wiring diagram shows) and an output for the following fuses: Heater and Radio, the other distribution block would have an input from the battery and output for each of the following fuses: Courtesy lights, Emergency Lights, Cigarette lighter. That will retain stock-like functionality. Instrument cluster is just fused in-line with the cluster wiring. You will need a 6-fuse(min) block to wire it like this.
To be truthful...the wiring setup in vintage mustangs is absolute garbage. For instance...the headlights and taillights are so dim from the factory because they do not have relays in-line. Not really the fault of Ford of course, since relays weren't in common use until a decade later...but there are plenty of wiring upgrades to be done...the fuse block is only the beginning and I wouldn't waste my time if I were you...if you are really serious about upgrading the factory wiring:
You can get any number of 14 or 21 circuit full harnesses off of Ebay for $120 or less. They have a circuit for everything you could possibly want.....you would still need to add headlight and taillight relays, but once you did you would have a full modern system
1. Run a different fuse for each and every circuit...there is absolutely no reason for multiple circuits to run off the same fuse.
2. Because you are running a separate fuse for each circuit, you will need to add input power....to do this, run a small power distribution block like this:
Distribution Blocks | 0GA to 4GA / 4GA to 8GA
The Audio Legion distribution block allows you to turn one power wire into multiple. This means you can power multiple amplifiers with ease. Nickel-Plated Distribution Blocks AL-DB0: 1/0 Gauge to 4 x 4 Gauge AL-DB4: 4 Gauge to 4 x 8 Gauge
These distribution blocks meant for car audio are useful...you input a given feed of whatever gauge and split the output into however many wires you need to power each fused circuit.....so one block would have an input from the ignition switch(just like the wiring diagram shows) and an output for the following fuses: Heater and Radio, the other distribution block would have an input from the battery and output for each of the following fuses: Courtesy lights, Emergency Lights, Cigarette lighter. That will retain stock-like functionality. Instrument cluster is just fused in-line with the cluster wiring. You will need a 6-fuse(min) block to wire it like this.
To be truthful...the wiring setup in vintage mustangs is absolute garbage. For instance...the headlights and taillights are so dim from the factory because they do not have relays in-line. Not really the fault of Ford of course, since relays weren't in common use until a decade later...but there are plenty of wiring upgrades to be done...the fuse block is only the beginning and I wouldn't waste my time if I were you...if you are really serious about upgrading the factory wiring:
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rover.ebay.com
You can get any number of 14 or 21 circuit full harnesses off of Ebay for $120 or less. They have a circuit for everything you could possibly want.....you would still need to add headlight and taillight relays, but once you did you would have a full modern system
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