67 Mustang, Huge Gap At Bottom Of Door

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by biggyfan1, Jun 7, 2013.

  1. just bought this mustang and noticed I can see sun light out the bottom of the door. it has some old weather striping but even if it was new its not going to cove the gap I have. what can be the problem here? the door lines up nice all the way around and closes solid. the driver side has 1/2 the gap the passenger door has. as you can see my fingers can go about all the way in there.
    View attachment 128264
  2. it kind of looks like maybe a door skin has been replaced by the upward wave at the bottom of the front of the door. is the gap all the way down or just in the front ? if it is just the front the door may just be to high at the front and the fender may be to high also making the door to high tring to match up.
    how does the fender look where it meets up to the window chrome at the top?
  3. does the fender stick up above the cowl? and is the gap tighter at the top of the door by the quarter than the bottom of the door at the quarter /is it an even gap?
  4. the top has a big gap too. the window all the way up and I still see light. that may be cause of the old weather striping but its like 1/8 gap. the bottom is like 1/2 inch almost.
  5. i can tell the door is from a different car because of paint color.
  6. i am thinking the fender may be to high at the front of the door making the door to high in the front.if the gap is tighter at the top of the door by the quarter than the bottom of the door at the quarter that means the front is up.
    look at the bottom of the fender were it meets the rocker and see if the fender is above the rocker at the bottom below the rocker trim
  7. the fender seems to line up to the same spots as the driver side. if i did lower the door then the gap at the window and roof would be way to big even for new weather striping. its almost like some material needs to be added to the kick panel/bottom post where the large gap is. like maybe 3/8 inch of filler then paint. maybe i should take it to a body shop and ask them what they think. i also noticed someone added a torque box on the driver side but not the passenger side. or is that normal? its a 67.
  8. a 67 only has one torque box they started using two in 68
  9. look at the inside of the door were the skin is folded over . if it had a door skin replaced it will probably have visable tack welds instead of spot welds .it is possible they rolled the lip to high narrowing the door skin
  10. ok so I figured it out. the car has been hit on the passenger side. there is a 3/4 to 7/8 inch lip just before the kick plate but on the passenger side it is like a 1/4 inch lip. check out the photos. would you recommend I build it back up with body filler?
    View attachment 128251
    View attachment 128252
  11. what is this bottom piece called? ive been looking to see if I can buy a weld in portion but I don't know what the proper name is for this lower door frame section.
  12. it is the rocker. is there a bow in it ?
  13. i would not build it up with bondo ,that would be to thick . there is an outer skin patch for the rocker. before you weld it in check the fit with the door first
  14. the best way would be to replace the whole outer skin but yes you could cut it to fit .otherwise you would have to cut it loose from the rear quarter and thats not to easy and save the quarter to.
    if you made your splice right in front of the rear quarter and replaced it all the way to the front it would probably be the easiest.
    dont overlap it that does not look very pretty. butt weld it ,but weld a piece in side it were you butt it together and let it stick inside the end of the rocker that will be left at the quarter. drill some holes so you can plug weld the piece inside. this way you can screw it to gether to hold it and keep it lined up while you weld. remove the screws and weld the screw holes. a piece of the old rocker would work perfectly as the inside piece ,it will already be the right form.
  15. Did you look at the link i posted? that piece doesnt look like the one in my picture. im not seeing the 1 inch step where the door would make its seal (the area where mine is only 1/4 to 3/8 inch). maybe the pictures are just not clear enough. the rocker looks more like the area below the door and not the actual door seal area, or is it both? sorry for my lack of knowlage but body work is not my thing at all. thanks for your help.
  16. yes it is the right piece.the rocker is one piece and goes under the door.
    when you remove the old piece you will see spot welds at the top lip and the bottom lip drill those out and cut it were you want to splice it and it will come off but it will be a bit tricky at the front door post as it goes under it. there will be spot welds at the post bottom as well drill them also ,you will find a couple of welds as well .they will have to be cut loose. i still have a new rocker outer shell from doing the coupe to fast back conversion but it was the wrong side
    thats to bad . are you in Mojave,Tehachapi? i am in porterville area between bakersfield and Visalia.
    you will also need to support the car before you cut the rocker loose so it doesnt sag or spread . you can clamp a brace from the front door jamb lip to the rear door jamb lip down low as you can to the rocker to keep it from spreading an x brace in the door jamb would even be beter and support the side of the car with jack stands.
  17. I am in the Victorville, Adelanto, Hesperia area of the High desert. About 1 hour from Tehachapi. What did the world do before the internet and quick online expertise? I would be lost with out alot of you guys with out such help. so do you reccomend a certian brand for the door rocker or are they all about the same?
  18. dynacorn is about the best, but i have used the others also and they work just fine. the dynacorn is a little heavier guage though.

    i have been through Victorville but never stoped. worked on tehachapi
    prison for quite a while .