67 Super Snake Project

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 67FBack, May 9, 2006.

  1. extra water temp sending unit?

    Do you mean attaching two wires to the same sending unit will affect the accuracy of the signal?! My car does not have an EFI setup like yours, do you think I would still have the same issue?

    I had been planning to have my SPAL fan piggy back on my Autometer temp sender unit instead of installing a second temp sending unit. When I test fit both senders on the intake, I did not like all the brass fittings (t-fitting, a male-male adapter & both senders) on the polished intake.

    Sounds like I may have to give it some more thought... hhmmm, maybe i could install one temp sending unit in the radiator drain plug hole? Any other ideas? Does anyone make a thermostat housing with an additional hole for a sending unit?

    Yes, quite possibly. I know that using the wrong ohm sending unit will affect the Autometer gauge. Since I only had the EFI sending unit in the manifold, and it had 2 wires running to it, I didn't dare tap in to it. The Autometer gauge uses a one wire probe.

    JayCorp Technologies
    With the SPAL PWM though, it says that you do not need a second sending unit. The wiring diagrams even show how to uses a one wire. So you should be fine.

    EDIT: Be warned though, it says that it is designed to be used with factory OEM EFI type sensors! You may just need to program the PWM. Very easy job.
  3. Problem with the drain plug hole is that it would not be reading the water temp coming in to the radiator. A bung welded close to the incoming water would be better.

    I heard of somebody doing an in line bung welded to an aluminum pipe.

    Another option would be to drill and tap for the SPAL sensor somewhere (ie. thermostat housing). Just make sure there is enough depth for the probe.
  4. Thanks for your reply, Richard.

    Yes, I saw that in the instructions. However, the wiring harness provided in my kit for the SPAL temp sender has 2 wires attached to it (one green, one black), not just a single wire as noted in the instructions. Perhaps all I need to do is connect the green wire to the sending unit and the black wire is just a ground wire. I tired calling SPAL today, but I couldn't wait on hold while at work.

    On a side note, the PWM reprogramming sounds very simple. That I'm not worried about.

    Good luck sorting out your bugs. Hopefully, you're trans input shaft is not putting pressure against your crank. I'd hate to hear that your brand new engine needs to come out for new bearings!
  5. I have the trans issue resolved. Transmission was never anywhere near touching the crank. More than 3/4" clearance.

    I have that hydraulic throw out bearing. And when I put it together, it appeared that the bearing face was already touching the fingers of the clutch. I called standard transmission and they said that it should work but they were not sure with the dual RAM clutch. They sent me a shorter piston.

    After installing the shorter piston, it was not fully disengaging the clutch. Damn it!! Out comes the trans again, install the longer piston, trans back in. Works just fine now.
  6. Hydraulic clutch TO bearing

    What a pain! I hope I don't run into the same problem. I just installed my G-Force T5 trans with a hydraulic TO bearing last week. My trans builder shipped it with the TO bearing installed, and he said it's setup to match perfectly with the clutch... we'll see in a few weeks. :D

    Sounds like you'll be on the road soon! :nice:
  7. H Pipe

    Got a lot done today. Took a day off to regroup. Those damn gremlins keep sneaking up and screwing with everything.

    For instance, the drive shaft delivered to me was too short. Well I ordered, and received from UP (a few weeks late) a longer driveshaft. This fixed one problem but created another. The front universal knuckle started hitting the H Pipe. Damn it!!!

    OK I removed the H pipe and had it cut 3/4" on both sides to give me a little room. I also clocked the EFI sensor a little clockwise because it was getting very close to the frame. This allowed me to lift the transmission a little more, hopefully taking care of the shifting problem. We will see in the next few days:


  8. Front End Alignment

    Got the front end aligned today also. I stayed with they guy doing the alignment, and boy am I glad. He really didn't know that you could rotate the plate to move the LCA out for the negative camber.

    The figures from TCP:
    Camber 0- ½ degree neg
    Castor 2 ½-3 pos
    Toe 1/16” -1/8” In


    But We got it done. Front and rear end. It was only out a little, but a little sure makes a big difference in the way it drives. Now I got to lift the rear a little more. There are adjustments on the UP rear Coilover system to allow for this:

  9. State Inspection & Dyno

    I got the car State Inspected today.

    Then went over to the local dyno shop. After a lengthy amount of time test tuning, doing some gentle pulls, then getting more robust each time. We are not finished tuning yet.

    But I took a video of the last pull. Enjoy!

    If this link doesn't work, I will fix it shortly...
  10. Enjoyed the acoustic version of Men at Work's "Overkill" Never heard that before :) Good choice

    And the car, not bad ;)
  11. A.W.E.S.O.M.E.!!!!

  12. That was the only version I had ever heard. And thanks!
  13. Going to break it in and then give it a little more aggressive tune down the road.
  14. Congrats on building a monster! That things is going to be a handful and a lot of fun all at the same time:nice:
  15. Yep, it is a handful! Still got some tuning to do, but I am getting very close to where I would consider it done (if there is such a state).

  16. have you wrapped up the budget for our prying eyes to see? :)
  17. "Badges? We ain't got no... stinking badges!"


    Budget? We don't need no stinking budget!!!!!
  18. ^^^^
  19. wow that dyno pull was sick!!! :hail2:
    what exhaust are u running?