68' Project With Son

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by djesurun1, Jul 8, 2013.

  1. I am replacing the floor pans in my 69, among other sheet metal parts. I have done major mechanical work on hot rods all of my life but this is my first attempt at sheet metal work. Let me say that it is not easy, but well within the realm of the home hobbiest. It takes time, patience and a ton of research, most of which can be done right here. I think the key is to do it right the first time. Remember it is not the destination but the journey that is the reward. In closing I would also like to add that it took me about 4 hours to remove and clean up the previous fiberglass repairs to the floor pans.
  2. I bought a used Blue Point welder and it was a good machine but the drive wheel and tension pieces wore out. I could spend $75 on parts or I could buy a new basic one from Harbor Freight. I think it cost me $115. It has been a great unit and does spot welds great. It does not give you a ton of control but it is great for welding in patch panels.
  3. Thanks for that gentle kick in the right direction guys lol. I bought new sheet metal floor pans for both sides, got the remaining carpet out, and ordered my mig welder yesterday (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10051&langId=-1&productId=3499662&storeId=10151). It won't arrive for two weeks though. Thats ok, plenty of time for the prep work. The front half of the floor pans are rusted out pretty bad as well so I'm glad I got the full length for both sides. I sure hope this mustang isn't in worse shape than I want it to be. I'm thinking I should probably drain and pull the gas tank before welding anything on the car right? Nobody ever mentions that in their "how to" guides but it sounds like a pretty solid idea. @horsesense, thanks I found the trunk drop off patch, only $25 =) I didn't buy it yet though. Already out of money and I have plenty to work on already. As always I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks again for the help.
  4. Yes remove the gas tank and remove or at least drop the fuel lines so you don't cut into them while removing the old sheet metal.

    I don't recall if anyone has said this yet but cut out and weld one side at a time. I did my floor pans in 2010 this way and it made it much more manageable and reduces the chance of things not lining back up.
  5. yes, please remove the tank. i agree with afast93, i would do one side at a time as well .make sure you drop the emergency cables and brake lines as well.
  6. The brake and fuel lines might not be worth saving. If you do remove them bag the clips for both brake and fuel. I am not sure if the 68 has an emergency brake line bracket welded to the bottom of the floor pan but if it does remove it and save it. It should clean up and be able to be reused. The other thing you might want to invest in are a few spot weld cutters. They have a 2 sided one on sale for $4.99 right now. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-double-sided-rotary-spot-weld-cutter-95343.html

    It will keep you from tearing up good metal while removing the bad metal!

    Once the floors are out you can see if you need to replace the floor supports. While they are out look at frame rails and while it is out it is a good time to use some rust converter in them. Eastwood has a good product for this.

    On sale for $13.00 a can.

    Good luck and have fun!
  7. there will be some brackets that are welded to the floor under side for the emergency brake cables .measure them so you can relocate them on the new floors .they do not come with the new long floors . good catch jackson0215:nice:
  8. Awesome thanks guys! There is one spot that the floor has rusted through and you can see into the frame rails. I definately have some rust there so I'll be cleaning them up and putting a rust inhibitor like you suggested. Im glad you guys mentioned the brake and fuel lines, I would have caught that but I'm glad you mentioned it before hand.