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Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by candphall, Jul 9, 2013.
what i have done before is take a piece of metal and lay it in the other side and pound on it with a hard plastic or rubber mallet until it forms into shape then just flip it over for the other side and trim to fit.
I never thought of that you are truly a genius. What guage quod you use?
i would try 18 but if it doesnt work try 20
Found a piece of 22 guage it seems to be pretty close in dimension to what was in there. If it proves to be to thin I will just use it of a pattern.
Ended up cutting and shaping a patch panel to fill the hole. I got toe boards to fit then its on to the welder.
that will work . i was just thinking, those reinforcement panels for duel exhaust
would make a good patch panel for that area. it looks like yours extended into the rear floor though
Got all the pieces fit and surfaces cleaned for welding. Hope to weld next week.
I have a passenger side floor pan that I ready to weld. When I checked it for level it is about a quarter of an inch out towards the door side. All of the points on the frame rail and tunnel are hitting as they should. i am wondering the best way to correct without bowing or twisting the pan.. I was thinking of just shimming the seat pan to level, or is a quarter of an inch not enought ot worry about.
i wouldn't worry about that ,what you want to make sure is level is the frame rails and rockers. the floors are never very straight or level in these cars. and they do run off to the side a bit
Frame rails and rockers are perfect. Thank goodness.
Yet more rust. Repair panel is on the way.
Money and time finally came together and I was able to get a Lincoln 180C welder. I bought it from a local dealer and got everything I needed, welder, gas, cart, gloves, and helmet for just under a thousand dollars. I have never welded before but have been practicing and things have been going pretty well. I have attached a photo of the last three beads, on 18 gauge. They look ok, I think. I getting a bit of spatter mostly because of what I think is improper gun distance and angle. What do you think any input will be appreciated.
galvanized metal will spatter and so will oily metal ,metal with paint or primer on it. i have had trouble with over seas parts in welding .the metal seems to pop and spatter more than U.S. steel .clean the edges to be welded as best as possible before you weld
I am using a Jackson auto darkening helmet with a 10 shade, non adjustable. I am having trouble seeing the joint that I attempting to weld once the arc is struck . I also where auto darkening no line bifocals. I am wondering if any one else has had this problem, or any suggestions.
it is hard to find a good helmet that will lighten out enough for mig welding
mine is a little bit dark but it is better than my old one .i bought my new one at Lowes .auto darkening glasses may make it worse as they darken when light hits them as well .maybe try some reading glasses ?
i have a auto darkening welding helmet from harbor freight and i can see exactly what im doing with my helmet down. I agree that the glasses might make it worse. I found a good website that might help you with welding.
also attached is a picture of welds. The first one (from left to right) is not hot enough or enough voltage. The rest are very good with weld penetration and is what you are looking for except for the last one. It has too much and you might blow holes through your metal and make more of a mess than any good. You want your welds not to look like turds sitting on top of the metal. You want them to be wider and flatter, that usually means you are getting good penetration.
I hope this is not confusing you. The wire speed and voltage has a lot to do with how the welds turn out. If you pull the trigger and the wire pushes the gun away then you have too much wire speed. If you welds sit on top of your metal then you voltage isnt high enough. Word of advice adjust the wire speed or the voltage but not at the same time.
Thanks Robert. I will take any help I can get