69 Window Adustment. Went From Glue In Window To 70 Bolt In

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by 69FastBackAZ, Jun 13, 2014.

  1. Own a 69 FB mustang. Bought all the parts to convert to 70 bolt in glass. Having problems adjusting window. Can ANYONE HELP!
  2. Do you have any pics of the problem area ?
  3. I can take pictures of my 69 glue in window to the 70 bolt in window, not sure how much help they would be? If you are familiar with windows on a 69 stang I can tell you what I am experiencing. Basically the guide brackets attach to the metal plates, which are attached to the window itself. The brackets are used for either the glue in or bolt in window. The only parts that are different are the glass, of course, the metal brackets that either bolt to the glass or the 69 metal plates which glue to the window. Then there is the regulator itself. The website I got it off stated you might be able to use the original regulator but to be sure just get the 70 regulator which I did. There is only one difference which is on the 6 inch arm on the regulator, one is straight the other has a slight indentation towards the end of the 6 inch flat bar. What I run into is installed everything only to find that the leading edge of the window is against the inside edge of the door. The trailing edge of the window is close to the outside edge of the door. Which to say it is almost against the outside felt piece. Where it should be. So to get the glass away from the inside edge of the door and closer to the outside felt piece is really difficult. You find the window hanging up on the regulator. So then you adjust for that and the leading edge of the window is against the inside metal edge of the door, leaving NO ROOM to install the inside molding piece which has the inside felt piece attached. It is almost like I have the wrong guide bars. So I purchased new guide bars. No matter which set of guide bars I use I have the same problem. I ordered and received guide bars for the passenger window and the driver window. Neither make a difference. The guide bars I took out, the attach point at the top, is squared, or at a 90 degree angle to the bar. the other set, the attach point is canted slightly not at a 90 degree angle to the guide bar. So my next thought is to totally leave the forward guide bar out. NOW THE WINDOW ADJUST FAIRLY CLOSE, almost perfect, except for that the forward guide bracket does not have a guide bar to follow. So now you lose out on the adjustment of the forward guide bar, where at the bottom of the guide bar has a foot where a bolt goes through. It has an elongated hole that allows you to adjust the guide bar foot in or out which affects the tilt of the window at the top. This tilt action either presses the top of the window inward or outward. This tilt action either presses the top of the glass tighter against the weather strip or further away. NOTE the trailing edge of the window still has the aft guide bar installed so you can adjust the window to press tighter against the weather strip. So it does move the forward part of the window towards the weather strip, just not tight against the weather strip. My next thought is to cut the top of the forward guide off. Doing this means you lose the top attach point of the guide bar, but still have the bottom portion of the guide bar attached and still might have the tilting adjustment needed to press the leading edge of the glass against the door frame weather stripping. I got this idea from the drivers door, noticing that the forward guide bar had broken away from the top attach point. The drivers door window works fine. it would be nice to install all the correct parts and make the window work as original. I can see NO DAMAGE to the door, but the car is 45 yrs. old Who knows what has taken place. Other option is to leave the forward guide bar out and adjust the window best I can and live with it. Hope this paints a clear enough picture of my problem. If you have experience with this type of window, maybe you have some tips to my dilima MY phone is 520 603-2268, if you wish to talk it out. Live in Tucson AZ.
  4. What i have ran across is the doors twist on a 69 -70 because of the length .If anyone has ever leaned on the door while it is open the latch end can twist out ward and pull the top of the glass away from the top rubber strip.
    It sounds like the slide bar may need the top bracket bent a little on yours ,you can do it with a cressent wrench but be careful you could break it off. I have slotted the bottom adjustment hole in the door to get the tilt correct . Does the door line up with the quarter correctly when the door is closed ?If not you can twist the door back until it lines up correctly . Pics would help
  5. Thanks for your help. Looking at the door it appears to line up with the quarter panel. You mentioned twisting the door? Not sure what you mean or how to twist it or which direction to twist it. You also mentioned bending the top bracket on the slide bar/guide bar. When looking at the bar as if it were installed the curved/bow part would be going away from you, (curved bow part goes towards the outside of the car and not bowing towards the inside of the car) so do I bend the top bracket toward me or away from me. Bend towards the inside of the car or towards the outside of the car? I do have extra slide bars, what do you think of just cutting the top bracket off the guide bar. The bar is fairly stiff when it is mounted at the bottom foot of the slide bar. This way the slide/guide bracket still has the bar to follow when the window goes up or down, and I can still adjust the bottom foot of the slide bar to create the inward or outward tilt. This might be an alternative solution to the twisting of the door or bending of the top end bracket of the slide bar. WHAT do you think?? You also mentioned slotting the hole at the bottom of the door. Right now there is just one round hole for the bolt to go through, but the bolt goes into the foot of the bottom of the slide bar which has a slotted hole of about 1 and 1/2 inches for the nut to slide back and forth. SO the bolt goes through the door into the nut of the foot of the slide bar. So slotting the hole in the door might give you even more adjustment for the window for the needed tilt of the top edge of the glass for the inward or outward movement, so it presses even harder against the weather stripping. Does this sound correct, am I understanding what you are suggesting?? Right now the way things are with everything installed I find the forward edge of the glass pressing against the inside edge of the hole it comes out of ( which is the top of the door where it exits out of the inside of the door, that is the hole I mean) . The trailing edge of the window comes up out of the top hole of the door just fine and pretty much in the center of the hole between the inside and outside felt weather strips. So it seems that bending the top portion of the slide bar, called the mounting bracket, with the crescent wrench might do something. I have been working long hours and hopefully I will get a chance to try your ideas this weekend or next. Please try and answer my earlier questions in this paragraph. I really appreciate your tips. Now I have some different avenues to pursue. I was at a stand still but your info has really given me some things to look at. NEW HOPE YEAH! OH do you live in AZ?
  6. If the door fits up to the quarter it does not need twisting . The bracket on the top of the slide bar would need to be bent away from the area you would want to make closer to the felts, that would push the bar and the glass closer to the felt .So if you were bending it toward the inside of the car it would push the bar toward the out side . The bars need to be attached at the top and the bottom or the glass will flop around . Slotting the holes in the door will give a bit more adjustment if the tilt is not enough.
  7. The door is flush with the Quarter panel. If you were to slide your hand from the quarter panel towards the door it does not hit the door. The door is flush with the quarter panel on the top and bottom. When the door is closed I see an even space between the door and quarter panel, from top to bottom. The leading edge of the door has the same equal space between the front edge of the door and the fender. Only thing I noticed when the door is open you can grab the door handle and pick up slightly on the door. Which is to say you can lift the latch side of the door up just a little. The Drivers door has similar movement. I also noticed you have your contour lines running down the side of the car, (the contour lines run the full length of the car from front to back) one line above the door handle and another a little below the car handle. These lines do NOT match up or to say line up with each other perfectly. When you follow the lines on the door when you get to the quarter panel they are slightly off. Remember I mention the lifting of the door how it lifted up slightly. That amount may make the lines on the door match up with the lines on the quarter panel. HOPE this makes sense. Does this indicate that the door may be twisted??? The door latches nicely and seems to close as it should. It is flush with the fender and quarter panel and rocker panel. Will try bending the slide bar top mounting bracket inward and see how that works. You mentioned slotting the holes in the bottom of the door. Should I make the slot go more towards the outside of the car, which will give you more tilting action toward the weather strip at the top. Which is to say slotting the hole more outward allows you to push the bottom of the slide bar outward causing the window to tilt inward even more. Slotting the hole inward will give you more window movement outward. Since it seems I need more tilting action of the top of the window to come inward, the bolt hole should be slotted more outward vice inward. Does this sound correct? It seems you do not live in AZ, do you know of anyone who lives in the Tucson area that also may have your same knowledge?? Again my phone is 520 603-2268 if you would like to talk. Thanks again. Steven. PS. I will post pictures soon
  8. Sounds like your door hinges are worn if you can lift the door up and down ,although new hinges have some play .If the door seems flush with the quarter then it does not need to be twisted
    the worn hinges are allowing the door to sag a bit and that is why the lines don't line up.
    Bend the top bracket first on the guide bar and see if that will push the glass where it needs to be ,if not then try slotting the bottom hole .
  9. Will try what you suggested. I appreciate your time and expertise. Things I would have never thought to look at. So maybe the door is not twisted. Which would make me think that all is normal and the window should adjust normally. But your suggestions of bending the bracket or slotting the hole makes it seem there is something wrong? I guess just old age, metal fatigue. or something. Maybe the weak hinges or the door is twisted slightly?? Who knows? TO untwist the door, is it just pushing on the top of the door and pulling on the bottom, with just hand strength?? How do I know I twisted it enough ??
  10. Yes you would grab at the top and the bottom of the door and twist Until it lines up with the quarter flush all the way down. If it is flush now do not twist, it will no longer line up.You would only twist it if the door didn't line up with the quarter . the problem is more than likely in the brackets that mount the glass. The 69 brackets could have been set in a different angle slightly on the glass as it attached to the bottom of the glass, but the 70 glass bolts solid to the brackets so it may be necessary to bent the guide bar mounting bracket to make the 70 glass close up correctly . I have had the 70 glass hit to tight to the outside felts and had to shim the guide bar away from the door to make it fit correctly .