I can take pictures of my 69 glue in window to the 70 bolt in window, not sure how much help they would be? If you are familiar with windows on a 69 stang I can tell you what I am experiencing. Basically the guide brackets attach to the metal plates, which are attached to the window itself. The brackets are used for either the glue in or bolt in window. The only parts that are different are the glass, of course, the metal brackets that either bolt to the glass or the 69 metal plates which glue to the window. Then there is the regulator itself. The website I got it off stated you might be able to use the original regulator but to be sure just get the 70 regulator which I did. There is only one difference which is on the 6 inch arm on the regulator, one is straight the other has a slight indentation towards the end of the 6 inch flat bar. What I run into is installed everything only to find that the leading edge of the window is against the inside edge of the door. The trailing edge of the window is close to the outside edge of the door. Which to say it is almost against the outside felt piece. Where it should be. So to get the glass away from the inside edge of the door and closer to the outside felt piece is really difficult. You find the window hanging up on the regulator. So then you adjust for that and the leading edge of the window is against the inside metal edge of the door, leaving NO ROOM to install the inside molding piece which has the inside felt piece attached. It is almost like I have the wrong guide bars. So I purchased new guide bars. No matter which set of guide bars I use I have the same problem. I ordered and received guide bars for the passenger window and the driver window. Neither make a difference. The guide bars I took out, the attach point at the top, is squared, or at a 90 degree angle to the bar. the other set, the attach point is canted slightly not at a 90 degree angle to the guide bar. So my next thought is to totally leave the forward guide bar out. NOW THE WINDOW ADJUST FAIRLY CLOSE, almost perfect, except for that the forward guide bracket does not have a guide bar to follow. So now you lose out on the adjustment of the forward guide bar, where at the bottom of the guide bar has a foot where a bolt goes through. It has an elongated hole that allows you to adjust the guide bar foot in or out which affects the tilt of the window at the top. This tilt action either presses the top of the window inward or outward. This tilt action either presses the top of the glass tighter against the weather strip or further away. NOTE the trailing edge of the window still has the aft guide bar installed so you can adjust the window to press tighter against the weather strip. So it does move the forward part of the window towards the weather strip, just not tight against the weather strip. My next thought is to cut the top of the forward guide off. Doing this means you lose the top attach point of the guide bar, but still have the bottom portion of the guide bar attached and still might have the tilting adjustment needed to press the leading edge of the glass against the door frame weather stripping. I got this idea from the drivers door, noticing that the forward guide bar had broken away from the top attach point. The drivers door window works fine. it would be nice to install all the correct parts and make the window work as original. I can see NO DAMAGE to the door, but the car is 45 yrs. old Who knows what has taken place. Other option is to leave the forward guide bar out and adjust the window best I can and live with it. Hope this paints a clear enough picture of my problem. If you have experience with this type of window, maybe you have some tips to my dilima MY phone is 520 603-2268, if you wish to talk it out. Live in Tucson AZ.