Engine 700hp Block Choices....

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech' started by Bob Hughes, Jul 15, 2013.

  1. I'm going to start building another motor with hopes of 600-700hp. Curious on thoughts of what would be a good block choice. Go new from ford, used cobra, or aluminum from an explorer. I plan on building it myself so buying a short block from wherever really isn't where I wanna go with it. Any input would be great
  2. I'm planning mine out too. I want to go big with a 2.2 or 2.6 KB and go a completely different route than what I have with my V2 S-Trim Vortech. I will be buying a used Teksid block and a Cobra crank used locally and have it turned or order a rotating assembly. Build the thing bullitproof. Buy everything new from COP's to cam and crank sensors and go with Motorcraft wherever possible. ARP headstubs, side bolts, mainstuds etc etc. Manley H beams and CP pistons in either stock compression or 10.1 Vortech, then Trickflow heads with a custom spec'd cam. LT's and a 3 inch midpipe and catback.

    My goal is simply 600rwhp. Will need some serious tire (mine will be mostly a street car with a possible open track day or two a year.) I might have a local race shop assemble it or my local installer.
  3. Yea I'm planning on a 2.9l whipple to go on my tork tech manifold. My rear will handle it figure on d&d t56. Same plans as you new everything probably take me a year to assemble but be well worth it. Can get new ford racing block for $700 just need to make sure will handle power
  4. I plan on taking things super slow too. Move some parts and junk (modded 360's) out of my garage and pickup a teksid locally, then get it cleaned up so I can slowly acquire the right rotating assembly and so on. Your pretty setup, although a good clutch might be in your build list, maybe a twin disk setup?

    I still have the stock T45..so I have options although it's more money before I have a ton of fun.
  5. Yea I'm already planning on twin disc setup. And I need to up my fuel delivery again I'm at 95% duty cycle now. I'm not sure about going to return style or or triple pump hat and a cobra tank. Like I said I'm in no rush I'm keeping my car the way it is and building over time.
  6. A standard 2v iron block should be more than up to the task of 6-700hp. Personally, I would grab a Teksid block. They have nice 6 bolt mains (includes 2 crossbolts), are argued to be the strongest OEM block and weight almost half as much as an iron block. Plus, you can grab one from a wrecked mark VIII for cheap, especailly from a you-pull-it type j-yard. The teksid weighs in at ~80lbs while an iron block weighs ~150lbs. That's a lot of weight savings, and it's over the front tires where it counts for even more.
  7. Thank you. That's some useful info as theres a ton of upull-it's around my way
  8. So teksid blocks are aluminum...???? I was told aluminum blocks need to be baked to 300 degrees to be bored and honed....
  9. That would be a good question for your machinist. I do know that the blocks have iron sleeves, so I am not certain if or how much they can be bored before you would replace the sleeve. Some people like it because they just immediately put an oversized sleeve in for more displacement.
  10. Matt my tuner told me that about the aluminum blocks. I've done the sleeves in street bike motors, never with a car. I know with them we used to put sleeves and cylinder blocks in a freezer to help contract metal before pressing them in.
  11. If/when I build a motor, it'll be with a Teksid block. No question about it.
  12. Are all teksid blocks the same?
  13. Think I found a good deal running engine from a 2000 continental with low miles 8th vin digit v so it should be a dohc with teksid block right?
  14. Looks like the continentals are no good cuz they're fwd
  15. I got my teksid block yesterday from a mark viii with 80k miles. Once it gets here I can get a good look at the cylinders to determine if I need to oversize the bores. Pick up dss gsx pistons with valve reliefs.
  16. Teksid blocks can only be bore .020 over and no larger before it needs new cylinder sleeves. Also, IF you do have the block bore you must make sure the machine shop has a torque plate for a mod motor and a set of arp studs to bolt the plate down. If this process is not done, the top of the bore will be smaller than the bottom of the bore when the head is bolted to the block. Also, if you have your piston rings cut, have the shop do them with the torque plate on the block to insure the gap is set right.
  17. That's very good to know. My block will be here tomorrow so ill start checking bores to make see if all the cylinders are in spec. I'm hoping I won't need to have anything bored. If so I'll have to find a machine shop in NJ that does mod motors
  18. Check out my Teksid build, http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-re-rebuild.865563/ Block, crank, rods and pistons should be good for 1000rwhp. The only thing thats holding it from making that power is the heads/cams and the turbo size im running.

    Also, other key items your going to need to make 700hp are:

    -Billet gears for oil pump
    -main and head studs
    -stage 2 or 3 valve springs
    -9.5:1 cr or higher
    -Good set of cams
    -and rods (w/ apr 2000 bolts), pistons and stainless steel rings
  19. Tank_567 is exactly right. Torque plates are essential. Teksid block should hold up just fine. Don't have to bake it before you have it honed