70mm MAF adapter

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Mustang5L5

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EBay has a ton of them. Looks like they are all made by the same manufacturer so get whatever is cheapest.

Do you need 3.5"

 

JMGlasgow

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Was that a question if I need 3.5"? I'm wondering what size will fit the stock airbox.

I'm anti Ebay because of some issues I had buying firearm parts there. I'd prefer to use Amazon if possible.
 

Mustang5L5

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I’ll need to measure mine. A lot of these are sized for an air filter.

If I remember I’ll measure the size of mine using a stock airbox
 

John Dirks Jr

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The adapter does not connect to the stock airbox. You use the stock rubber tube at the airbox side. The adapter flange screws to the 70mm maf. The adapter hose end goes to the stock rubber tube but you may need to trim the small end off of the stock tube. The other end of maf connects to the tube that hoes to the TB.
 

John Dirks Jr

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It’s necessary when installing a factory ford 70mm maf on a Foxbody that originally came with a 55mm maf. The 55mm Foxbody maf has a tube connection on each end. The larger 70mm maf has tube on one end and a flat flange on the other. The adapter bolts to the flange side of the 70mm maf and thereby provides a tube type connection point
 

John Dirks Jr

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Here’s the MAF adapter with Ford 70mm MAF on Foxbody with factory airbox and factory tubing. To update me previous post, it looks like I trimmed a little of the rubber tube at the air box side to make it tube shorter. The reason is the the 70mm MAF with adapter included takes up more space than the original 55mm.

15FCF343-244F-485F-B7E7-B880848B122D.jpeg
 

Mustang5L5

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The adapter does not connect to the stock airbox. You use the stock rubber tube at the airbox side. The adapter flange screws to the 70mm maf. The adapter hose end goes to the stock rubber tube but you may need to trim the small end off of the stock tube. The other end of maf connects to the tube that hoes to the TB.
Yes, that's what I meant to imply. Connects to the rubber tube that connects to the stock airbox. Same as your photo
 

revhead347

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You can take a flanged housing & mill off the flange.
Mill it off? All the ones I have seen have two little tack welds on either side. Hit those tack welds with an angle grinder for 3 seconds, and knock it off with a hammer.

Kurt
 

revhead347

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Because they are dirt cheap and work fine with the a9L and plenty big for most combos
Ehhhh? I have heard conflicting stories on that. The tuners that I have spoken to generally say the same thing; and I admit that this explanation is above my understanding. The factory meters, no matter how cheap they are, are measuring with a micrometer, marking with a crayon, and cutting with an axe. They don't respond quickly, and don't measure very accurately; basically relying on compensations accounted for in the factory programming. A reasonably good meter is not hard to come by these days. I haven't checked ebay today, but I all but gave away my last Fox Pro-M on Stangnet. In this market, I would just buy the right meter the first time.

Kurt
 

Mustang5L5

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Ehhhh? I have heard conflicting stories on that. The tuners that I have spoken to generally say the same thing; and I admit that this explanation is above my understanding. The factory meters, no matter how cheap they are, are measuring with a micrometer, marking with a crayon, and cutting with an axe. They don't respond quickly, and don't measure very accurately; basically relying on compensations accounted for in the factory programming. A reasonably good meter is not hard to come by these days. I haven't checked ebay today, but I all but gave away my last Fox Pro-M on Stangnet. In this market, I would just buy the right meter the first time.

Kurt
I'm sure there is always room for improvement, but for your basic stock setup on a cruiser type they are plenty fine.

I've been running one all summer on my car and it's never run better. Now...will it still be on my car after I do my H/C/I setup over the winter? No way as i'll go with an aftermarket unit or ditch it completely when I go MS3. But for my stock setup right now, it's been working quite well.
 

Noobz347

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Ehhhh? I have heard conflicting stories on that. The tuners that I have spoken to generally say the same thing; and I admit that this explanation is above my understanding. The factory meters, no matter how cheap they are, are measuring with a micrometer, marking with a crayon, and cutting with an axe. They don't respond quickly, and don't measure very accurately; basically relying on compensations accounted for in the factory programming. A reasonably good meter is not hard to come by these days. I haven't checked ebay today, but I all but gave away my last Fox Pro-M on Stangnet. In this market, I would just buy the right meter the first time.

Kurt
Let's not forget that many Ford meters are the industry examples and not the cheaply reproduced "performance pieces". Have you ever had an OEM meter go bad? What let up to that?

The resolution on Ford meters is pretty damned good. If the meter is used on the car that it was intended then the resolution is [very] good. When you start swapping meters and housings and elements, then things begin to change. The more changes, the farther you get from the base, the worse things get. A digital tune can marry virtually any MAF to a Mustang. Some folks like to take other [Mustang} MAF and swap them. It works in many cases and the benefit is usually a larger housing and more CFM. It doesn't mean that the meter is perfectly ranged for the EEC but that it can operate in similar tolerance.

The only MAF meters that truly [Suck] are ones where the transfer curve is very narrow or not rock solid repeatable, up and down the scale. Incorrectly sized housing and element for application would be my number 2. Bigger is not always better.
 

revhead347

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Let's not forget that many Ford meters are the industry examples and not the cheaply reproduced "performance pieces". Have you ever had an OEM meter go bad? What let up to that?

The resolution on Ford meters is pretty damned good. If the meter is used on the car that it was intended then the resolution is [very] good. When you start swapping meters and housings and elements, then things begin to change. The more changes, the farther you get from the base, the worse things get. A digital tune can marry virtually any MAF to a Mustang. Some folks like to take other [Mustang} MAF and swap them. It works in many cases and the benefit is usually a larger housing and more CFM. It doesn't mean that the meter is perfectly ranged for the EEC but that it can operate in similar tolerance.

The only MAF meters that truly [Suck] are ones where the transfer curve is very narrow or not rock solid repeatable, up and down the scale. Incorrectly sized housing and element for application would be my number 2. Bigger is not always better.
I don't think bigger hurts much. Keep in mind, the meter has to have an accurate reading at idle with almost no air going through it. That's not going to change much on the cross sectional area of the meter.

I actually do not know much about tuning. I admit it. As I understand it, the resolution on the factory meter is good, but the response time is not. Does that makes sense? It seems to vary from one tuner to another. One tuner wants you to have a Ford factory meter, and then the next tuner is upset because you don't have an SCT3000. I don't know what to tell you. I know that in the before time, when actual computer tunes were rare, everyone just bought a big Pro-M or CNL meter, and it worked fine.

Kurt
 
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