Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

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2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
Mar 5, 2019
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Block plug on my mutt2 was/ is actually used to hold the stock rag joint heat shield also.

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extra_stout

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Aug 27, 2018
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Latest when water is dripping I know where to look...
I have another question: can the starter solenoid only be wired one way? I mean if I have to use one specific side for battery and the other for the starter?!
I've gone trough my pictures and when I bought the car the starter wire was on the left side (to front of car). Now I wired it vice versa (like it is on my 66 coupe).
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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I don't think it matters, but I could be wrong. I mean it's just a switch, it's either on or it's off. For what it's worth I wired mine as yours was stock, battery to the right and starter to the left. It seems that most illustrations on Google have the battery on the left and the starter on the right though. :shrug:

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extra_stout

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More wiring today. The e-fan runs if I use a jumper wire...
The fuel pump runs also if I use my dead mans switch for priming, but the relay doesn't work. I saw that I forgot to wire the ground, when I just finished for today... So this will be solved tomorrow.
For the e-fan I need to run the wires to the thermo switch.

Perhaps I'm looking tomorrow for fuel line and cooling system leaks...
 
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extra_stout

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Stupid. I wired the pertronix the wrong way. Red on minus and black on plus. Seems that this kills the module. I have a spare module, but I'm angry with myself... stupid mistake.
I hope this didn't killed the fuel pump relay, too. Because it get's it's signal from the minus from the coil...
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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Ouch! That sounds like something I would do - I hate wiring! I'm sure you'll get it sorted though, I'm patiently waiting for a victory video...... :cheers:
 

extra_stout

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Aug 27, 2018
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It's getting worse and worse... I think a wire burned too, because of the wrong wiring of the pertronix. The signal wire for the fuel pump relay, which is on the negative site of the coil doesn't have contact from one end to the other... :fuss:
I'm completely demotivated right now.
I could use a jumper wire to run the fuel pump and try to start the engine to make a victory video.
What do you recommend for bleeding air from the cooling system? Do I need to pull a heater core hose or not?
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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What I've always done, if I felt it needed it, was left the radiator cap off while the engine idled for a while. That way coolant could flow without being pressurized and hopefully push any bubbles through to the radiator. I'm all ears if anyone has a better suggestion. :shrug:
 
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Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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Along with what LILCBRA said you may raise the front about a foot or so to help facilitate that. I've never done it but read it on the old .net site.
 
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extra_stout

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I didn't burn a wire. I did another wiring mistake and I had the negative coil side (when I interchanged + and -) on the temperature sensor wire (don't ask!). I hope I only killed the temperature gauge. Luckily I have since 3 months a spare instrument gauge cluster witch I bought because it has a KMH speedo and I did get it in Germany for a very reasonable price...
I feel relieved, that I found the mistake. It's still :poo:ty, but now I know what I need to work on.
I still didn't try to start the engine, so perhaps I didn't kill the pertronix. So lets see how it all will work out.
The fuel pump relay is still a little mystery to me, but I think I start the engine first with a jumper wire for the fuel pump before I waste more time on this relay. I miss my mechanical fuel pump. But there was no possibility to get the explorer front dress working with a mechanical fuel pump.
 

extra_stout

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:cool:
I soldered two wires together, tested the temperature gauge (which works if I put it on ground). So seems that there is nothing wrong. I put in the spare pertronix, but I think that I didn't kill the initial module. I will test it, when I redo the spark plug wire routing (not happy with it right now).
Tested the ignition spark, which worked.
I used a jumper wire to run the fuel pump for priming the fuel system. There was fuel on the top of the rear bowl... but I thought the fuel inside the carb will be enough to test if the engine starts even without fuel pump:

And yes the 74 interlock system still works. I need to seat down and use the safety belt to get 12v to the starter relay.
It's really loud, but I think this is related to the ignition timing, which is way to late.
BUT: it runs
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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Almost time for a victory lap!! Very nice!!

I had the volume turned down so I couldn't really hear what it sounded like, what mufflers do you have? And I see that you turned your turn downs slightly - I did the same! Great minds think alike!! ;)
 

extra_stout

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The mic of my mobile phone is not the best. The car is still in my small garage, so the sound is even more difficult to record right.
Because it is so loud, the record is overmodulated. I need to dial everything in, warm the engine up and than I can do a good record for you guys!
The mufflers are some magnaflow knockoffs (where for 4 years on the shelf) and now they are sold from Holley and are called Flowmonster and use the same part number as magnaflow...
https://www.holley.com/products/exh...lass_pack_mufflers/flowmonster/parts/11226-FM
I hope that the car is much more quite, when dialed in. It's insane loud. Much louder than my 66 coupe with glasspacks and side exhaust exit.
My mother in law was for a visit inside with my daughter and wife. She asked my wife, if there is a low-flying airplane :jester:
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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So they're essentially glass packs, just with an oval case. At least that's what I take away from the description on the website. :)
 
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