Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

Enzio

Dang it. I was hoping mine would get 3 more inches
May 14, 2019
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Like I said you will probably have to replace those two gauges
All you can do is lightly wiggle the potentiometer shafts around a bit and spray some electronic cleaner in the housing
The gauge shafts are probably a little rusty from the car sitting
X2. They are electrical. So I'd also check all the wiring connections between them and the senders.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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Yes I had that issue. I took the spring and bent it until it was so tight on the cap that I needed to pry it on with a screw driver. I couldn't get it on with my fingers alone. That took care of the problem...so far...
I adjusted the spring of the brake master cylinder again. Now it is 45mm from the top to the pivot point and just clears the side of the metal cap. Hope this is now enough clamping force to have it tight.
I had a small issue with big impact: The throttle cabel end thing was rubbing at the primary throttle bracket at the carburator. This was an issue when I was off the accelerator pedal because I often had different idle RPMs. Now I have full control over the warm idle again. I turned down the warm idle to 600 RPM which works quite fine with the explorer cam. This helped a lot with accelerator pedal feel at low speeds.
I did the first oil change and cut the filter open. It was quit dirty, but not so much magnetic stuff. So I will do another oil change within the next 500-1000km. Engine had a lot of deposits inside. Seems that my engine oil dissolves the stuff very good. :shrug:
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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How are you guys attaching oil pressure and oil temperature sensor to the engine for aftermarket gauges? I have bought an adapter from raid (see below), but it doesn't work. Sandwich adapter under the oil filter doesn't work with FL1A filter and I don't want to use a small one...

uckschalter-raid-hp-660436-m10-x-1-m14-x-15-m12x15.jpg


Could this work?!
 

manicmechanic007

Active Member
Sep 26, 2017
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I assume you want to have both the idiot light and an aftermarket direct pressure oil gauge right?
You will simply need a tee fitting or Y
You should be able to make it look clean enough if you use brass or polish the steel
Same for the ECT Use a tee or get a thermostat housing that has a provision for a wax valve (TVS)
 

extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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I don't need the idiot light. And it is engine oil pressure and engine oil temperature only. I'm happy with the stock coolant temp gauge.
The problem is, that the idiot light fits physically in there, but the bigger pressure sensor does not. I tried it with the tee fitting.
 

manicmechanic007

Active Member
Sep 26, 2017
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The direct pressure oil gauges I am familiar with have 1/8 or 1/4 NPT thread which should screw right into your block by the oil filter
A male fitting like the one you have on the right side of the picture
You need a gauge kit from Autozone with copper 1/8 tubing and the related fittings that come with it
Check out Part # 9901 it should have the fitting you need
NAPA has a kit too
A good plumbing shop should have just the fitting
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
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I adjusted the spring of the brake master cylinder again. Now it is 45mm from the top to the pivot point and just clears the side of the metal cap. Hope this is now enough clamping force to have it tight.
Finally it is tight! It also stopped puking coolant after I changed the radiator cap.
I also reduced the mpg from 11.7 to 14.7 with my first carb tuning. I also can put around 6° more timing in (is 10° BTDC). Hope that I reach with more tuning my goal of at least 20 mpg... when cruising.
 
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IICrew

Advanced Member
Mar 29, 2020
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I had the same problem. Big ass oil sending unit. I used a T at the block and the extension you linked above. The T faces up and that has the smaller idiot light sender. The extension points out and has the large oil gauge sender on it. I can take a pic when I get her back from exhaust shop.
 

IICrew

Advanced Member
Mar 29, 2020
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Getting old can be a pain. Damn memory. I found a pic. That plan didn't work for me either. I used the T. The top port for idiot light and braided line from side port. the braided line feeds the oil sender which is attached on fender near the voltage regulator. Follow the braided line by the master cylinder and you can see how it's rigged. A shorter line and cleaner install is on the to do list but if it works and other things don't work it gets forgotten.

IMG_20200619_135318389.jpg
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
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Today it was cold but sunny the whole day. I took the Mustang for a tour and worked a little on the ignition adjustment. It is now ~14° BTDC initial timing and ~34° BTDC total timing without vacuum adjustment. Driving without vacuum I had no knocking, but with vacuum adjustment it had knocking. So I started to adjust the vacuum unit, which didn't work out like I wanted...
I'm using the timed vacuum for the vacuum advance, which means no vacuum advance at idle. At idle or at WOT there is no shacking of the engine. If the vacuum advance comes in the engine starts to shake. I changed at idle from timed to ported vacuum and the engine started to shacking and the idle RPM was unsteady. Any one an idea?
Next step is to remove the vacuum hose and install an brake line tube instead. If this doesn't solve the issue, I will just buy a vacuum unit.
 

manicmechanic007

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Sep 26, 2017
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If you suck on the vacuum hose going to the vacuum advance and the breaker plate moves
There is no reason to replace the vacuum advance itself because it is okay
Usually blow first in case the diaphragm is shot so you do not get a mouthful of black sheet
You may need to back off the timing just a bit
I would use spark port for the source
You might want to set the timing a little low for a test and see just how much the vacuum advance adds
I do not think yours is an adjustable type (allen screw thru the vacuum port)
Why the metal brake tube?
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
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I will make the blow test and additional with a vacuum hand pump, test if it holds vacuum. That is a useful hint.
I'm not sure if the hose is tight, that is why I want to use brake tube/line. But I will check with the vacuum hand pump too.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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I replaced the vacuum unit with a standard vc31 unit. The one installed had a different arm design. Now the plate moves freely. The standard vc31 unit is adjustable, the one installed was not. still need to do a test drive and adjust and double check the timing.
Small thing, big impact.
In German some people would say: the devil is in the details.
Or: the devil is a squirrel.
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
15 Year Member
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Squirrels aren't the devil..... They're Jedi ninjas!! :crazy:

c436948243e4ad3d178e1aeec9ffb2a48657c103_1.jpg
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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Glad its gonna work, Its gonna work right!?!
YES! It works.

Had today help from a friend. Mechanical advance was all in at around 1500 RPM. Changed one spring and now it is around 2100 RPM all in.
Initial advance is now set to 14°
Full advance with mechanical is 36° (without vacuum)
vacuum is now set to 4 turns counterclockwise which translates to 14°, when I actuate it with manifold vacuum, when idling.
No ping without vacuum, no ping with vacuum.
Idle screws needed another 1/4 turn richer to get a small vibration between 1000-1500 RPM fixed.
It is much better off the line, that is a big improvement for city driving.
Perhaps the last ride this year, because it is getting here cold too. But I'm really happy, that the ignition is now set and it works very well.
I also pulled one plug before I started the tuning session today, which looks also good to me:
IMG_20211106_145658.jpg
 
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manicmechanic007

Active Member
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The spark plug looks good
Sounds like you fixed it
Man card stamped
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
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I disassembled today my spare cluster gauge and tested fuel and temp gauge with 9V battery. Seems they are working fine, so I will put them into my cluster, when I will swap the KMH speedometer over. I first want to clarify, how I need to document this. I think i need another visit at TÜV... :shrug:
I also googled a bit about the tacho (still 6 cylinder in use) and how I can get it right for 8 cylinders. I found this:

Which is funny because the video refers back to stangnet :jester:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/tachometer-help.903355/

I think something like this should be also working like the rare original converter box:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1419315499...d=link&campid=5335821607&toolid=20001&mkevt=1
 
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