Progress Thread 74 Mustang II - Build as semi-daily driver

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
10 Year Member
Sep 1, 2010
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Kearney, NE
So is the TUV (with an umlaut) the Motor Vehicle Inspection and ministry of driver extortion in Germany?
 
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LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
15 Year Member
Dec 6, 2005
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Cool! I left a comment for her and suggested she join the site.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
526
599
103
Germany
The alu radiator started leaking, but they will send a replacement unit for free around mid of December. I think it is a micro-crack because it is not so much and it was tight in the beginning. Perhaps I will take it for a ride this weekend because it will stay above 40°F and there is still no salt on the roads.
I think I will start removal of the leaking radiator, drive shaft and instrument cluster, when the new radiator arrived. drive shaft still has the original u joints in it and it is time for a renewal.
If I have both side windows closed, I get a whistle from the trunk lid. I think I can adjust the lock carrier (is this the right word?) a little bit to have more pressure on the weather striping of the trunk lid. Hope this solves the issues. I think I have read about this issue, but can't remember what it recommended as solution.
 
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IICrew

Advanced Member
Mar 29, 2020
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Adjusting the latch will alter the hatch body line. Do you have both the bumpers that are attached to the hatch? Is the weatherstripping old? If you can get into the hatch you can have someone shine a flashlight along the seam or use an blow gun while you are inside looking for light or air penetration. If the weatherstripping is still flexible and the gap small enough you can add felt under the weatherstripping to raise it some. I watched Water Doctor do that to fix water and air leaks. He used felt for all kinds of repairs.
 
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extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
526
599
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Germany
Do you have both the bumpers that are attached to the hatch?
Yes, they are there, but don't know how much pressure is on them.
The weatherstripping is still okay in my opinion.
If i drop the side window just a small hair, there is no whistle. So I think it doesn't need much.
I will try to check first with a flash light and then check the pressure on the rubber bumpers before I adjust the hatch.
I didn't thought on the body line, so I will take this into account, if I do an adjustment to the latch.
I need to take the rear trunk panels away anyway because my reverse gear doesn't work right now.
 

extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
526
599
103
Germany
Hatch is perfect from body line, when I push it into the bumper stops. So there is little play (more on one side), which I can adjust with the position of the hatch lock.
I drove today a little bit and measured the velocity with my mobile phone/GPS. My speedometer is 60 mph, while GPS says 59 mph. I'm not sure if I want to exhange the speedometer to KMH because this is so close... :chin
MPG was 20 today which I'm really happy with.
I took the spare tacho apart, to have a look inside. There is a board inside which is a "frequency voltage converter". If I find the right capacitor and resistor and swap them with the right size capacitor and resistor I have a V8 tacho... Or I try to catch a jedi squirrel and let them do this kind of stuff.
IMG_20211120_113605.jpg
 
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2Blue2

will be trying this sex one when I can find it
Mod Dude
Mar 5, 2019
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There is a board inside which is a "frequency voltage converter". If I find the right capacitor and resistor and swap them with the right size capacitor and resistor I have a V8 tacho...
You can do this? I see a new cottage industry.
 

extra_stout

Mustang Master
Aug 27, 2018
526
599
103
Germany
You can do this?
Can you do an T5 swap? You never know till you do it! :cool:
Interwebz, arrogance (on competency of real experts), ignorance (on lack of own competency) and a small amount of criminal energy is the right combination to tackle this problem.
I need a source for tach signal which an old battery charger should solve. Or I will visit a friend who has a signal generator. Perhaps the solution is very easy: from the board there are two wires red and black to the tacho itself (the tacho input is just a DC voltage in the right height). Perhaps it is sufficient to put a poti into the red wire and adjust it till I have the right RPM on the tacho. If not, I will cry my heart out in front of my friend with the signal generator (he has some competencies in electronics) and hope he will solve my problem. :shrug:
The backup solution is to use a chinese cheapo 2 inch RPM gauge, put it behind the original screen and put the original needle to it.
Anyway I will report.
 
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