75 help

Discussion in '1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech' started by 75_2+2, Jul 15, 2009.

  1. I just purchased a 1975 2+2 from the original owner who had it stored in his garage since 1985. It has 82K original miles. Silver with red interior. I'm new to the forum but I will post pics soon as I can.

    We drained all fluids, took down the tank that was 1/2 full of gas (kerosene). Replaced all fluids, filters, battery, and fresh gas. We started her up and she purred like a kitten.

    2 problems arose however after we had her idling for a while.

    1. She bogs down when you hit 30 miles.
    2. Instrument cluster lights are out.

    We placed a fuse for the cluster but still no lights.

    What could be the problem? Any assistance will be really appreciated!!!!!

    Thank you so very much!
  2. One thread on this topic is enough, please.
  3. By the way, the high beam indicator lights up, radio works, a/c works, lighter works, and all gauges work. There's just no light on them and nor is there lights on a/c control panel. I did a search and somebody had the same problem but I read to the very last and he never posted again if the problem was resolved.
  4. I apologize for the duplicate, the site was acting up a while ago and I happened to click send twice with out the knowledge that it sent.
  5. The most likely problem for all the dash lights being out (other than the fuse) is the ground. If the car sat that long, it's likely there is some corrosion. The worst part is that you pretty much have to remove the dash entirely to clear it up. I had intermittent problems in my '77 until I took everything apart, cleaned up all corrosion and reassembled. No problems since.
    Another possibility is if there were aftermarket stereo/gauges installed, someone may have compromised the dash to body ground in another manner.
    Good luck, and welcome to II ownership.
  6. Steel Steeds,

    Thanks for the reply! The car seems pretty much all there and hasn't even seen daylight for 24 years. Yes, there was an after market cassette player installed on the underside of the driver's side dash. It works and the light on this one works as well.

    I will try your suggestion and take the dash down. Would have any idea as to where the ground wire is located?

    Thanks again in advance for the assistance. With regards to the bogging, I'm leaning towards the carb that it might need a rebuild. It's definitely fuel starvation. We replaced the fuel filter and is still the same.
  7. My other Fords:
    72 Cougar XR7 vert 351C
    79 Lincoln Continental 400
    75 Ranchero GT 429 SCJ

  8. Other cars:
    76 MGB

    1981 Corvette Vortec 350 4 spd

    1997 Cadillac ETC

    1978 Trans Am 467/ 1975 Ranchero 429 SCJ

    will post pics of 75 mustang II and 76 Dodge Colt soon
  9. Nice collection! My wife would kill me if I tried to have that many cars... That was the best year for the Trans Am, IMHO. Tell me it has t-tops and a 4 speed and I'll *really* be jealous.

    The dash doesn't have a wire, it's just grounded to the unibody at the mounting points. By disassembling everything, cleaning all metal-to-metal attaching points, and thoroughly reattaching everything (I even used a wire wheel on the screws and bolts), you can eliminate poor or no ground situations for the dash assembly. Most of the things you point out as working are grounded through the wiring harness rather than the dash body.

    And yes, if the car sat that long, it's a sure bet that the carb needs a good soaking in heavy duty carb cleaner. Buy one of those gallon cans so you can immerse everything in it. Works like a charm if you're careful and thorough. There's that word again.
    Keep us posted!
  10. hahahahahaha.....right you are and it has the Hurst t-tops (believed to be only 400 made using Hurst and it switched over to Fisher) It's the black special edition model. Bought it in 1980. She's pretty much well used though. Recently, I had the 400 stroked to a 467 by
    Speed-O-Motive. They've been around since 1945 building race motors.

    I also have 92 Ford F250 with a 460, has a 6" lift, a 1970 VW Manx (dune buggy), off road toys, 2 Honda Odysseys, Honda XR500, Kawasaki KX80, KTM 250, Honda Big Red. off road toys are my boy's.

    I don't know if it's a consolation or not but the reason why I can maintain and keep these is because it's just me and my kids (divorced for a good while).

    I'm retired and I really enjoy your replies. Thanks for the heads up on the dash. Was it difficult? I have Chilton book but it's also from the 70's and in my opinion, is practically useless. lol
  11. I have one question , did you check the bulbs in the panel?
    Also, you don't have to remove the whole instrument panel for access.
    remove only the dashpad and top panel, you will be surprised at how much you can get to that way.
  12. Taking the dash out is really quite simple, just time consuming. Start with the dash pad, and as CobraIIW says, you can see a lot and potentially check your bulbs. Since none of them are working, it seems unlikely that they are just burned out. But, with anything that sits for a long time, things happen. I'd recommend pulling the steering wheel simply for ease of access, then it's just working your way through and removing everything until the dash shell is all that's left, and that's held on by 6 or 8 big bolts.

    Yeah, the Chilton book is almost completely useless. See if you can find a Haynes manual, it's much better, even if it doesn't give you details about things like this.
    Good luck!
  13. 1) Those pictures brought back memories. I could almost smell the leaded fuel. :hail2::nice:

    2) Damned if I can remember where the instrument panel ground is, it does go through the plug on the back of the cluster though.

    3) Many/ Most (damned near all? ) of these clusters have "dried out" and have become brittle. Use extreme caution as the clusters have been known to crumble in peoples hands.

    4) Ref 3, Because many clusters are delicate you will/may want to remove the cluster cover/dash cover. Hardest part of this is getting your hand up behind the dash to remove the head light switch plunger. Since you have Fords your probably familiar with plunger removal, pull to headlights, press the button on the switch which releases the plunger, remove plunger.

    5) Just remembered, even when using these cars as daily drivers the grounds went away (least mine did), IIRC the ground at the dash plug was at fault. :scratch:

    About bogging, What engine?

    If the engine boggs at "30 mph" but recovers immediately at closing of the throttle check the main jets. I've seen them corrode in unused carbs. And ventury assemblies can be removed and cleaned without removing the carb, depending on the carb.

    OTOH, rebuilding/ replacing the carb is a good idea, as would be installing a sturdy canister filter between the fuel tank and fuel line. Not the best place to put a high capacity filter but better than cutting the factory fuel line between the pump and carburetor.
  14. I've found removing the the bulbs twist sockets in a degraded dash an iffy proposition, usually met with flecks of white plastic from the cluster housing. And then they tend to not tighten properly.

    I have some clusters around here, I'll see which circuit on the mylar is ground.

    I would have tackled it today but the damn desert heat soared high into the 112.

    My babies sure are suffering but I have to keep cool or nobody will take care of them....lol

    I will update you guys soon as it's "safe" to be outdoors.
  16. Just out of curiosity, I was wondering why the high beam indicator light lights up but I don't have any lights in the gauges?
  17. By the way, it's also the same problem with my Ranchero for years but never really paid much attention since I don't drive it at night.
  18. The high beam indicator could be on it's own ground, or the dash lights rheostat in the light switch could be corroded/not making contact/otherwise non-functional,

    Or, of course, the dash lights could be turned all the way down/off.