78 Mustang 2 Parts Car Maybe?

Discussion in '1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-' started by 65fastbackresto, Nov 7, 2013.

  1. I`ve been hearing about Mustang 2 front end conversions for years, I finally found a car REALLY cheap, $250, it has a v-6 motor, auto transmission, 4 lug wheels, rack and pinion power steering, and a lazer straight body with no dings at all. I figure worst case I can take the motor and tranny and use in my 51 ford pickup, best case use the front cross member and rack and pinion on my 65 and finally make it drive like a modern car, but I have no idea what I`m getting into here.

    Is this possible? And with the 4 lug suspension what parts will I need to replace up front to get it back to 5 lug or will it even work?
  2. you can convert the front rotors to 5 lug rotors but to use the cross member requires a lot of customizing, it is not a direct swap it is actually more trouble than it is worth .you would be better off to buy the cross member made to fit your mustang .
  3. Every Mustang 2 conversion kit I`ve seen is over $1000. I have a car with all the stuff hanging under it, what exactly makes it so hard to remove and re install? Also assuming I could source just the cross member for a reasonable price, what parts could I use off the mustang 2, and what else would I need?

    I watched some friends take pieces of a 30 ford today and build a car, they got skills so i have some resources
  4. i have done a lot of street rods and its just a lot easier to buy the bracket than it is to make the mustang II fit.and it's not as clean looking as the aftermarket bracket .the aftermarket brackets have been set up for better oil pan clearance .you are just looking at a lot of modifying . i have seen the aftermarket bracket all by its self but i am not sure who sells it ,possibly Fat Man?
    #4 horse sence, Nov 7, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2013
  5. fatman fabrications sells everything from just cross members to complete kits for a variety of cars, and you can use stock mustang ll parts if you like. you can use granada rotors and calipers with an adapter that is also available.
  6. I found just the crossmember and necessary parts to install for $300 to $400 online last night, so that will keep me from gutting the mustang 2. I`ll still use the power rack and pinion and stuff, but it`s good to know my granada stuff will fit it, I already have that upgrade. I guess I have a good winter project on my hands again....never done...

    You guys are the best by the way, I couldn`t do this without your guidance.

    Anyone think the little 2.8 liter V-6 with the auto in the mustang 2 would be a good power plant for my rat rod 51 ford pickup? It has about 115hp, the truck only came with 101hp.
  7. ok, now remember to reenforce the lower frame rails on the mustang to handle the extra load on them. remember that the load path is split in stock mustangs where the lower rail handles part of the load, and the rest goes up through the shock towers to the firewall. here are a few links for you to ponder;





    each of these shows various installs of mustang ll front suspensions in early cars.

    as to the engine question for your 51, you can make it work, but really, a 2.8l v6 powering a truck? do yourself a huge favor and sell that engine and trans to someone who wants it for a small car, and pick up a 2002 or later 4.2l V6 and trans from an F150, and use that engine to power your 51. it will be soo much better.
  8. Rbohm, thanks for the info and links on the mustang 2 setups. But on the 4.2, can I go that route with carburetor?
  9. This really sucks, I been digging on this car trying to get the little V-6 to run, the thing has no rust, the body is straight, factory AC car, nice gauges with tach and cool looking interior. I almost hate to tear this thing up, I can`t seem to get it running anyway so its sort of making the decision for me. i hate to admit this but I thought it was out of time so i pulled the timing cover off the front...and its gear driven. So thats not it.
  10. you might be dealing with the wrong timing.
  11. I only found one way to time it online, 1-4-2-5-3-6. the car had been sitting for 5 years, and it was obvious that someone had spent alot of time and effort trying to get it running and they were not successful. I also read that alot of these came out with plastic cam gears, and these are metal and look pretty new like they just been replaced. Almost has me thinking wiped cam but i am not a mechanic, so I`m guessing.

    The car is full of boxes of gaskets and boxes of little replacement parts like someone had been awefull busy....

    these 2.8`s are junk anyway, i really just wanted to see if i could make it run without sinking any money in it.
  12. what about the actual ignition timing rather than just the firing order? make sure that is right first, then make sure the engine has fuel. remember that an engine needs three things to run, fuel and air in the right mixture, timing at the right time, and compression.
  13. ah...I need you to clarify the difference between ignition timing and firing order please? compression sounds good (just from engine turning over with starter), using starting fluid (because fuel pump is bad), so timing is only thing left i think...correct me if i`m wrong.

    I had the fuel line ran into a coffee can of gas and it never went down when i was cranking it over, i assume the pump is bad, like i said before, i only wanted to verify the motor was good, not really use it. I already found a good 302 for the 51 truck.
  14. firing order=the order in which the cylinders are actually fired.
    ignition timing=when the cylinder is fired in the cycle. in other words how many degrees before top dead center on the compression stroke does the spark actually come. most engines like 10-14 derees before top dead center for initial timing, though there is a wide range of where the spark can actually fire for the engine to start and run. however if the ignition timing is off by too much, the engine wont start.

    the first thing to do is find where the number one piston is at top dead center on it compression stroke. then back the crank up until you are at the 10 degree before tdc mark on the dampner. then check to see where the rotor lines up in the distributor, it should be pointing at the number one plug terminal, if it isnt then that is your problem.