ok thanks for the info.its a bunch of little things i am looking for. #1 the release lever cover boot that goes over where the clutch cable fastens to the release lever . # 2 the emerg brake cable equlizer,kind of horse shoe shape. #3 the plastic hold down clip for hood prop that it snaps into on th front. and #4 if i can find that steal bracket that bolts to the motor for hold the power steering pump.
78 mustang
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#3 is available new on Ebay:
I should be able to help with #4 next time I go by my parents' place, as I swapped to a manual rack but still have all the power steering parts except for the bolts (which I also probably have, but I'm not sure I'll be able to locate/positively identify them in the disaster that is my parents' garage).
1pc NORS hood support prop rod clip 1974-1978 Ford Mustang II D5ZZ-16828-B | eBay
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74-75-76-77-78 MUSTANG II HOOD PROP ROD CLIP | eBay
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can you also tell me if this is the connector that goes to the ignition coil . the one i have that was in a box of parts has two wire a red and a green ,but no connector on the end of the wires,it it suppose to fasten into that quick connect iam holding.thanks again for all your help.
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If you have iron heads yes. usually aluminum heads are a little less. Start in center and work your way out. Never torque to full spec on first round. I would do about 15 lbs then go to the 25lb. Just make sure you start in center and work towards ends in a circular pattern.
I do not use the end gaskets on sbf intake manifold. They move and are a pain in the ass. I just use a silicon bead.
If you can, use studs. Its easier to get the manifold to drop onto studs and keeping gaskets in place vs using bolts. If you have 2 studs just to locate it that's better then none.
I usually use a little silicone on the coolant ports but rarely on intake ports. Coolant ports almost always have some erosion. It can squish out and interfere with air flow on intake ports. With that said if there are defects in the mating surface its okay to use a tiny amount to smooth out defects.
The connector I am not sure of. I do not use the oem ignition. It struggles at higher rpms in my opinion. There is a sticky thread where I uploaded some wiring diagrams. I also grabbed the diagrams via ebay for about $10. They are laminated and work great if you have good vision. I have a hard time reading them anymore but my son can read them easily.
I do not use the end gaskets on sbf intake manifold. They move and are a pain in the ass. I just use a silicon bead.
If you can, use studs. Its easier to get the manifold to drop onto studs and keeping gaskets in place vs using bolts. If you have 2 studs just to locate it that's better then none.
I usually use a little silicone on the coolant ports but rarely on intake ports. Coolant ports almost always have some erosion. It can squish out and interfere with air flow on intake ports. With that said if there are defects in the mating surface its okay to use a tiny amount to smooth out defects.
The connector I am not sure of. I do not use the oem ignition. It struggles at higher rpms in my opinion. There is a sticky thread where I uploaded some wiring diagrams. I also grabbed the diagrams via ebay for about $10. They are laminated and work great if you have good vision. I have a hard time reading them anymore but my son can read them easily.
From what I remember, the fan in the top of the pic is what came stock. Don't really recognize the other. 
The top fan in the pic is correct for an ac or hd cooling car.
As far as the alternator it's nice to upgrade but not necessary. I have been running a 16" puller fan for over a thousand miles on the stock alternator. I have a new one wire alternator but it's still sitting on the workbench. I have a 1980's 1000watt amp and battery is relocated in the spare tire well. The only time she doesn't want to start is below freezing after sitting for a while. I don't have a choke so it takes come cranking to fire up. I have not needed to jump start it yet but have had to let her sit till temps raise a few more degrees.
In short the old alternator is fine if everything else is up to snuff.
As far as the alternator it's nice to upgrade but not necessary. I have been running a 16" puller fan for over a thousand miles on the stock alternator. I have a new one wire alternator but it's still sitting on the workbench. I have a 1980's 1000watt amp and battery is relocated in the spare tire well. The only time she doesn't want to start is below freezing after sitting for a while. I don't have a choke so it takes come cranking to fire up. I have not needed to jump start it yet but have had to let her sit till temps raise a few more degrees.
In short the old alternator is fine if everything else is up to snuff.
well this sunday is the big day,i friend of mine that knows a lot more about cars than i do is going to help start her for the first time since this project started. i hope all goes well,just in case i bought a fire extinguisher.Any words of wisdom from you guys that have went through the same thing.Once we find top dead center on piston #1 ,i think we should be good to go.i've never done this before so hoping she will go.
Is it a flat tappet engine? First time running? If so read up on proper break-in steps. You can ruin a cam in just a couple minutes on first start if not done correctly. Don't get too anxious but make sure you know the proper steps.
Make sure you run a high zinc oil. I only run Lucas Hot Rod oil. You cannot use modern oils in a flat tappet engine. You will destroy the cam in no time. I am talking minutes if it's a new build.
If it's a previously run engine but has been sitting a while yank the dizzy, get a corded drill and oil pump extension then prime the system. Make sure you see oil on every rocker before you crank it over. One clogged lifter can ruin the valve train. Matter of fact do this with any unknown engine. Doesn't matter if it is new or has been sitting.
One of the II's I bought last year had a newly rebuilt engine that sat for a decade. They used the wrong lifters in it and I could not get it to prime. New lifters and it primed in a couple minutes. Would have destroyed it had I not primed it first. It showed oil pressure but nothing came though the lifters.
A battery powered drill has a high chance of burning up. Even an 18 volt fairly new drill will die. Use a corded drill. Oil pump turns counter clockwise. I Just used 5/16 socket on an extension for the prime rod. Make sure you tape it together though so it doesn't drop into the engine.
Have a large fan in front of engine. Triple check fluids.
Check your timing light on a running engine to make certain it's accurate. Never use a new an unfamilier timing light for initial breakin. It can melt things
Make sure you run a high zinc oil. I only run Lucas Hot Rod oil. You cannot use modern oils in a flat tappet engine. You will destroy the cam in no time. I am talking minutes if it's a new build.
If it's a previously run engine but has been sitting a while yank the dizzy, get a corded drill and oil pump extension then prime the system. Make sure you see oil on every rocker before you crank it over. One clogged lifter can ruin the valve train. Matter of fact do this with any unknown engine. Doesn't matter if it is new or has been sitting.
One of the II's I bought last year had a newly rebuilt engine that sat for a decade. They used the wrong lifters in it and I could not get it to prime. New lifters and it primed in a couple minutes. Would have destroyed it had I not primed it first. It showed oil pressure but nothing came though the lifters.
A battery powered drill has a high chance of burning up. Even an 18 volt fairly new drill will die. Use a corded drill. Oil pump turns counter clockwise. I Just used 5/16 socket on an extension for the prime rod. Make sure you tape it together though so it doesn't drop into the engine.
Have a large fan in front of engine. Triple check fluids.
Check your timing light on a running engine to make certain it's accurate. Never use a new an unfamilier timing light for initial breakin. It can melt things
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