I still thought about bracing it though, the t-top structure doesn’t provide a lot of support.when I mentioned about frame flex earlier it didn't occur to me that the engine was out so yeah it shouldn't be a big deal I would think
Ok, finished up the old floorpan removal.
So I have two repairs that I intend to tackle tomorrow. First the lip that is welded between the rear floorpan and the front floorpan.
I'll replace the front part of the rear floorpan where the eb bracket is too.
I'm going to make Booger feel good about this repair using original floorpan pieces.
Tomorrow Ill try to finish the dressing of all the spot welds I cut out (and btw, there's a sht ton load of them),
I know what you're saying Mike. BTW, I will have the ladder support you're talking about.I don't know about you other guys, but I'm seein a once in a car build opportunity to make a set of SF connectors that fit inside the existing sub frames.
You have the floor pan to use as a template where you can literally build them to follow the intricacies of the floor w/o cutting it., and, even better the ability to weld part of whatever you do it while it is under you instead of over head.
But remember,......"ladder" Dave....
Don't just wuss out and run one piece of 2x rectangular tubing...a ladder style set of connectors spread out over 12" and tied to the rocker pinch weld is the difference between actual frame stiffening, and feeling good about it.
As long as nothing has twisted, and the 4 corners are all on the same plane ( i.e.) one corner not lower/higher than another, then it won't hurt a damn thing. Every race car I've ever built had the chassis tied together while it was in its most stripped down state. Measure your door openings in an X pattern, and compare the two. ( I'd bet they're the same.)I know what you're saying Mike. BTW, I will have the ladder support you're talking about.
I've got a question for you though, at the current level of my repairs would I be shooting myself in the ass to install any form of sfc's while it's up in the air like it is? Plus, even if it's sitting on it's tires, without the drivetrain in it, what are the chances sfc's would be put in the incorrect location.
I've been debating this problem for some time now.
Thanks Mike.As long as nothing has twisted, and the 4 corners are all on the same plane ( i.e.) one corner not lower/higher than another, then it won't hurt a damn thing. Every race car I've ever built had the chassis tied together while it was in its most stripped down state. Measure your door openings in an X pattern, and compare the two. ( I'd bet they're the same.)
If they are, go to town.
Putting in that ladder style set I made had to be prebuilt before I installed the thing as a unit, because I couldn't get on top of the bars to completely weld them. That will not be a problem for you.
In this iteration, you're stiffening the frame itself. You do not need to worry about the rear, or that the car is sitting on its suspension,...think of it only as the foundation...the suspension will take up any small tweak after that. ( read..."small" tweak)
You're building a street car Dave, not a 1500 hp drag car. You would have to be just a cave man in the intellect department to mess this up...
Something in the order of putting your engine block in the trunk before welding stuff permanent.
Boy do I understand that!Ive been busy drilling out the seat bracing that goes from rocker to rocker what a nasty job finding all the welds
Funny you mention the auto floor pan thing, I never knew this til this past week.That floor is interesting because seems like the factory used automatic floor pans and added the squared off part later for 5 speeds. Never liked how they did that with a half hazard hole on the floor with a spot welded panel covered by sound deadener.
That floor looks great !!!
I'm watching but don't have much to add. Just learning as you go.