Build Thread '83 T-top Coupe - Got the TIG Welder!

Davedacarpainter

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Dave, check out this thread where a guy on the other forum did flares made out of metal that I think would be the look you're going for... I'll volunteer to buy them for my car and you can come down here and practice installing them on mine... I won't even charge you for letting you learn how to do it.

https://forums.corral.net/forums/road-racing-auto-x/1968906-steel-fender-flares.html

And here's the ebay link to where to buy them.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=162772048423
I don't want to extend the lip like that, rather bringing the whole quarter out. Again, similar to the maier flares.

My flares will be more like them than anything else except they will be sheetmetal and hopefully fabricated to look , if not necessarily stock, at least very professionally done.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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love the idea! I like the madmax riveted look..:shrug: Mike will have to forgive me on that one, I say F*CK the critics not there car. Do as you will Dave we will be right here along for the ride, I like the idea of doing the capri like flare but keeping the mustang look. maybe a mix of the two bump the quarter out and see what it will look like.
Its "their"
 

Davedacarpainter

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So my brother has an everlast tig welder that he said i can borrow on an extended basis. It's a 110/220 model. I don't know the model number yet. I'm going to get it from him this weekend and then i'll tell you more.

I figured this might help a bit with the skinning of the quarters for the flaring. Cooler weld.

I'm going to practice for a bit first. Apparently tig welders take a bit of practice.

So, maybe two or three weeks at the most and Booger will be at the murder house. Then some serious cutting, fabrication and welding! Woohoo!
 

RaggedGT

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So my brother has an everlast tig welder that he said i can borrow on an extended basis. It's a 110/220 model. I don't know the model number yet. I'm going to get it from him this weekend and then i'll tell you more.

I figured this might help a bit with the skinning of the quarters for the flaring. Cooler weld.

I'm going to practice for a bit first. Apparently tig welders take a bit of practice.

So, maybe two or three weeks at the most and Booger will be at the murder house. Then some serious cutting, fabrication and welding! Woohoo!
There are some decent vids on YouTube to get ya started with the tig. You will run through a lot of argon and filler rod with it though lol. Do you know if it has a foot control or a thumb control for the tig torch?
 

Davedacarpainter

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There are some decent vids on YouTube to get ya started with the tig. You will run through a lot of argon and filler rod with it though lol. Do you know if it has a foot control or a thumb control for the tig torch?
It has both Chris. I'm eager to get after it.

I've watched a few you tube videos already. It's a bit different than MIG though, isn't it?

I would imagine the thumb control will feel more natural in the beginning. I'll give the foot control a try though too. Luckily i have access to all the scrap metal i could want, lol.
 

90sickfox

I didn't really have an issue with the stink...
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I don't know why no one had made a flare that went off of the actual wheel well line. It would be like the factory lip but stick out another couple inches. It would be bigger and instead of darting back to the body at the bottom it could run less of an angle. Then the body lines wouldn't change at all. The mouldings would even still work with just a little angle cut at the flare transition. No modification to the fuel filler hole....and a whole bunch less work.

Kinda like this....

20190213_225214.jpg


Screenshot_20190213-225710_Chrome.jpg


My biggest issue with flares is that they bump the whole quarter out which is unnecessary. They also cause the molding line to look stupid. The angle back to the body just looks bad to me. If you happen to roast the tires the rubber will be all the way up to the tail lights. That angle just looks bad to me.

Edit; my drawings suck on my phone. Wish I could relay what I'm trying to get at. You could raise the arch up about 1/2 to 3/4 inch. And then run the same angle as the factory coming from the top center out to the flared point above tire. Then follow the curve all the way around the wheel well with a less dramatic angle back to the body at the rocker. This would mean your split rocker would only need about 2- 3 inches modified. The same 3/4 inch edge would be retained in the new flare.

I think that way would look almost factory.
 
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CarMichael Angelo

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I think flares on cars that came that way from the factory look dated. Nothing says " my rear tires stuck out, so I made these to cover them", or ...." Does this make my ass look big" more than a set of flares..

I think the whole conversation on this topic is crazy when you consider.....

You don't have to do none of this sht to make a fat tire fit with a live axle.;)
 
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Davedacarpainter

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I think flares on cars that came that way from the factory look dated. Nothing says " my rear tires stuck out, so I made these to cover them", or ...." Does this make my asks look big" more than a set of flares..

I think the whole conversation on this topic is crazy when you consider.....

You don't have to do none of this sht to make a fat tire fit with a live axle.;)
True Mike, but to do it right with an IRS will test me. I’m looking forward to this.
 

bird_dog0347

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I think flares on cars that came that way from the factory look dated. Nothing says " my rear tires stuck out, so I made these to cover them", or ...." Does this make my asks look big" more than a set of flares..

I think the whole conversation on this topic is crazy when you consider.....

You don't have to do none of this sht to make a fat tire fit with a live axle.;)

True, but some of us want to go fast in a straight line AND around turns...
 

CarMichael Angelo

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True, but some of us want to go fast in a straight line AND around turns...
lets talk to Griggs, Steeda, UPR, and everybodies authority on fox mustang suspension Maximum Motorsports about that..
 

CarMichael Angelo

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True Mike, but to do it right with an IRS will test me. I’m looking forward to this.
And to that I say "Party on Wayne".
I think if i had chosen to put an irs under the Monster, I'd be right where you are Dave....debating whether to tamper with the factory spring perches to be able to get the tire under the car, or push out the sheetmetal so that I could leave all of the factory engineered goodness alone...
I'd probably opt to go after the body too.
 

bird_dog0347

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lets talk to Griggs, Steeda, UPR, and everybodies authority on fox mustang suspension Maximum Motorsports about that..
I'll add an addendum to that, some of us want tailpipes on a fox as well. You can leave UPR off the list of people who know how to turn anywhere but the end of a drag strip.

Even MM says that the IRS will be faster (properly setup) around a road course than a built SRA with TA/PHB.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I'll add an addendum to that, some of us want tailpipes on a fox as well. You can leave UPR off the list of people who know how to turn anywhere but the end of a drag strip.

Even MM says that the IRS will be faster (properly setup) around a road course than a built SRA with TA/PHB.
Yeah but......what does " properly setup" entail?
 

Davedacarpainter

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Well, the tool pimp came by today.
6F8BB494-40EF-4F71-AC97-D8B4F7AF5956.jpeg

It’s a 1/4 cordless ratchet. The 14.4 volt batteries swap with the other six cordless tools I have.

I’m just another John......:nonono::banana::suicide::taco::cry::cheers:.