'88 GT Convertible - Croatia, Europe

snovak

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Howdy!

Car show done. I was the one and only fox there! :cool:
Great to see a ordinary people wondering how this is actually a Mustang :)
Others with knowledge praised the last f-body...
This cars are not appreciated here as everybody turns to late 60's or 70's if they are into (dozen of them on show), so I truly have a rare car in classic community. Their loss :cool:

BTW oil dripping from timing cover minimised with liquid metal to close to none. Car runs strong. Lifters still knocking
 

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snovak

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Looking at the photo I see many makes, models and brands, car and truck, anything heavily modified?
Not too much, a pickup or two (link)
Normally, people try to keep stock appearance. Meeting gathers people from Croatia, Slovenia, Hungary, Austria, Germany, ... promoting 60's and 70's culture and R'n'R... but cause of this Covid s*it, this year was pretty bad.
But still, I think that a average guy from US could see a lot of history on 4 wheels in the middle of Europe, every June :)
 
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snovak

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Hi folks!

Okay, vacations over here.
Knock did not change, I hear it on cold start and warm idle, and around 1800rpm. Stops after a short run, returns after dozen seconds of idling. When You rev it a bit it fades away...
Before today's drive I added few more ounces of Seafoam. Tomorrow we will change oil for 5w40 (M1 5w30 currently).

Tomorrow is D day, wish me good luck with solving that knock:
New valvetrain parts from lifters to pushrods, rockers, pedestals and bolts should fix it IMHO and if it is from valvetrain.
Additionally I got all new injectors (SMP FJ68) just to be sure that we done all that we could (slight fuel odor in oil, one injector leaked, and I have a small miss from time to time). I even took new thermostat with jiggle pin when I will have lower intake out (second time this year).
Upper part should be "brand new" if You ask me.

I sincerely hope that it will cure knock and that it was only a mistake to reassemble (all old OEM) tired valvetrain parts last winter. So help me God.... Keep fingers crossed for me!

Otherwise if it is bo**om end, that on picture was a last drive this evening and year (great picture by my younger 8 yo son).

Today I also got some minor leak from AOD from overtightened pan and AOD cooling lines where it meets tranny. I suppose it is a flare or is there a o-ring also?

Cheers!
 

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snovak

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I bite the bullet with valvetrain. Knock is still there. Found two old pushrod balls worn sideways where it touches rocker and that raised my hopes we will fix it...

New ford racing lifters, melling pushrods, elring rockers, pedestals and bolts, new injectors...
Knock is there on cold start, less pronounced and barely hearable at warm.

Mechanic told me not to worry until it is not a metallic sound, and this one is more like dull knock. But I do...
To him, bottom part does not make sense, oil pressure is there, knock reversed like on bottom end problems: is there on cold start idle and fades away with rpm and warm engine...

Flashback: When we waited for third balancer (two faulty delivered) I changed engine mounts, tranny mount, OEM '88 spark plug cables and distributor rotor + cap. We installed Pioneer balancer and knock started with first start. We even tried once more OEM HB, knock persisted.
In desperation I will return old wires, new spark plugs.
Beside making me nuts, this engine started to empty my pockets... I even started to think it is not internal engine problem.... :-(

Any suggestions are welcome...thnx!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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Have you tried pulling the plug wires one at a time at an idle to see if the knock stops with a certain cylinder? It may be a wrist pin problem.
 
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snovak

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Have you tried pulling the plug wires one at a time at an idle to see if the knock stops with a certain cylinder? It may be a wrist pin problem.
Yeah pal, I did that as soon as I heard knock. First thing I really did about it. To my ear there was no noticeable change and therefore I pointed my fingers to lifters... :-(

Does it make any common sense to repeat that but this time also with spark plugs out (of course one at the time)?
That should really take away all load from piston from mechanical point of view.
 

manicmechanic007

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Snovac, If your PCV valve rattles at all when you shake it, it is good. Your brake booster should hiss if it is working. You can lessen the hissing by replacing or putting more foam in the plunger rod hole. The Lincolns used to come stuffed with foam. Sure sounds like you should replace the intake gaskets. Code 41 lean is most likely just that. Easiest way to test intake gaskets is to spray both sides of the intake with just about anything. While the engine is running at idle just spray the sides of the intake manifold down and listen or feel the rpm change. If the rpm changes at all, the intake gaskets are leaking. If you spray it down with flammable brakleen the rpm will increase. If you spray it down non flammable brakleen the engine will stumble. Water works if you are good
 

manicmechanic007

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Snovac,
Run it for a while with a quart of trans fluid in the oil then change the filter and reevaluate the knock. That does the same thing as quick motor flush but is not as bad on the mill
 

snovak

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Have you tried pulling the plug wires one at a time at an idle to see if the knock stops with a certain cylinder? It may be a wrist pin problem.
Repeated today.
No difference. I even removed NGK UR45 and put in brand new Motorcraft SP502 (ASF42P) just to make sure it is not from plugs.

As I removed thermactor lines to gain access to spark plugs I saw something, as I can recall thermactor system faulty:
Downstream pipe, the one connected to H pipe blows out on my hand!
Should the check valve stop exhaust from blowing out? As I remember cold air from pump is to be INJECTED to h-pipe and heads.
From what I recall, nothing should blow from upstream nor downstream thermactor pipes, hence the check valves are there to stop it.

I heard my smog pump making sounds weeks ago, but I was worried and concentrated on knocking and sound from smog pump attributed to my poor pump rebuild. Now I am certain it was fighting with exhaust pressure.

Is there a possibility that knock/rattle is cause by exhaust gases leaking into thermactor system????
I will block everything tomorrow, bypass smog pump with shorter belt and give it a test drive on first occasion...
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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NGK is a good brand of spark plug. If gapped right and the correct heat range, they should not be a problem.
Do you have access to a tool store? A mechanic’s stethoscope would help find the area of the noise quickly.
Shipping could be more than the cost of the tool, but here is what I am talking about.

The Garnish Gripper Mechanic's Stethoscope Automotive Engine Diagnostic Sensitive Hearing Tool for Cars, Trucks and Motorcycles,Black Amazon productView: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F18V2X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_75ST3C5H2H4VQ9XYC54N

A really long screwdriver with the handle cupped you your ear can do the same type of thing, and sometimes a piece of hose can work. Just keep stuff out of the belt and fan!
Your car will not overheat in the short time it takes to see what it sounds like without any engine front accessories running. (Drag racers used to pull the belt for the trip down the quarter mile strip then put it back on for the trip back.)
Remove the belt. See what the pulleys sound like spinning by hand, then see if the noise is still there when you start the car with no belt.
 

snovak

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@manicmechanic007 You referred to some old, solved problems (O2 sensors, code 41 and intake which was pulled for second time on friday). I also used more 'safe' seafoam instead of atf. Now, with brand new lifters and oil I don't think it is wise anymore... but good suggestions, thank You. Cold start knock is my priority now....

@7991LXnSHO thnx. Tried that also (stethoscope, vacuum line, broom stick, screwdriver), but it bounces thru whole engine. Believe it or not, most clear source of sound is at distributor bolt :-(.
BTW, we are not in Sibiria, and have quite good tool stores and shops here (Croatia is home of Rimac, builder of latest EV supercar "Nevera"), but US car parts, imperial automotive grade stud/bolts/nuts and US grade liquids are rarity or non existing... Apart from light bulbs, up to today I didn't find any EU car part compatible with Fox. Even stock 16" 225 (up to 215) tyre dimension is not available here, only from 17" up...
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I think I asked this before but how is the shipping like if I sent you some part ups or usps?
UPS (brown truck)
USPS United States Postal Service
Is there an inspection or declaration?
 

7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp
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@snovak LOL about Siberia! :rlaugh::lol:
I was going to refer you to Harbor Freight Tool, and then thought that reference might not help. I do not know if they are an international plague, or if mostly we get stuck with the imitation tools that break.

HFT started out selling the cheapest imitations of tools available. They now sell more than one line and quality. Some things like a stethoscope, tie down cords or tarps are best bought there. But buyer beware.
Please let us know what happens to the sound without the belt. A noisy AIR pump is pretty distinctive, and usually does not throw it’s voice to the distributor hold down bolt.
 
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manicmechanic007

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Cold start knock? Roller cam motor? use 5-30 no thicker and retest cold knock. If it goes away real quick as the engine builds oil pressure, you may have excessive bearing clearance or a weak oil pump. Sea foam has its place but you will not find me running it thru my lifters or mains. If it takes 50 or 100 thousand miles to carbon up the motor.. You do not want to rush all that carbon out too quick like sea foam or quick motor flush. Transmission fluid has a ton of detergent in it. ATF works slower but is easier on the crankshaft, bearings, lifters etc.
 
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snovak

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I think I asked this before but how is the shipping like if I sent you some part ups or usps?
UPS (brown truck)
USPS United States Postal Service
Is there an inspection or declaration?
Law says: private to private up to 150 euro vat, up to 1000 euro you pay vat and customs. Never tried.
UPS and all major parcel companies are here, but not USPS.

@7991LXnSHO thnx. Had belt off, also had knock with M1 5-30. Seafoam was added after knock was there, run in 500miles in recommended concentration, and I poured in another few drops when driving to lift to take intake off and put in new lifters. Air pump is noisy but I know that sound and how to ignore it :).
See my next post...
 

snovak

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Found leak at collector!!!!!
May this be tick-knock source resonating thru whole engine?????
It is a clear tick in there with vacuum hose stuck between those 4 pipes and in my ear.
 

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90sickfox

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It could be the noise.
 
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manicmechanic007

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Law says: private to private up to 150 euro vat, up to 1000 euro you pay vat and customs. Never tried.
UPS and all major parcel companies are here, but not USPS.

@7991LXnSHO thnx. Had belt off, also had knock with M1 5-30. Seafoam was added after knock was there, run in 500miles in recommended concentration, and I poured in another few drops when driving to lift to take intake off and put in new lifters. Air pump is noisy but I know that sound and how to ignore it :).
See my next post...
Advise sell it real cheap on ebay and have them ship it