'88 GT Convertible - Croatia, Europe

manicmechanic007

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I get pissed once in a while when I have trouble with the aftermarket rubber trans pan gaskets
Then I get a flat Ford cork gasket
They come flat and they are a bit thicker
2 of the front bolts in an AOD pan go into the trans where fluid can leak out the threads
The rear bolts go into blind holes and the threads should not need to be sealed
Good luck and yes to a magnet
 
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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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When I get passed at a transmission gasket I go straight to red permatex gasket maker and no gasket. The flat rubber gaskets always try to squeeze out of line or don't seal small imperfections. They used to sell cork gaskets with little metal rings in the bolt holes. They worked pretty good with some gasket shellac or permatex high tack ( yellow snot ). That high tack is hell to clean up if you ever have to drop the pan again. I found out the same thing about permatex " right stuff ". I had to destroy the pan to get it off.
 

snovak

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Goddamn!

Guys I cranked the engine.... and the sound.... knocking.... is exactly the same as I never did the:
***NEW*** O2 sensors, engine and AOD mounts, harmonic balancer, timing chain set, waterpump, fan clutch, lifters, rocker arms, rocker bolts, pushrods, thermostat, injectors, spark plugs, oil pan, oil pump, oil pickup tube, main bearings, rod bearings, exhaust manifold gasket, flexplate, ARP flexplate bolts, bellhousing separator plate, rear main seal....
***CHECKED*** oil pressure (50psi idle), timing, spark plugs, removing spark plug wires etc etc...

Only sucessful testing I have done before chaging main and rod bearings was that KNOCK WAS GONE when I took BOTH #5 and #1 spark plug wires off.

It may tell You something:
Yesterday after short warmup I heard a "loose kind of clattering" when letting the throttle. I have idle knock, push a throttle a bit it does not go away, but when I remove foot from throtle i get kinda rebound clattering sound for short time when engine RPM's are slowing down. Goes away with stabilizing RPM.... camshaft play? piston problems? wrist pin?

Eitherway I am inches away from cherry picker and tearing this MF down... :-(
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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There have been so many things wrong that you have found and fixed. I'm very surprised the flywheel issue was not your noise. This has been one of the most frustrating threads here. It will be a huge relief when your noise is fixed. So much time and money.
 
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snovak

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@90sickfox Flexplate, it is AOD. When I saw that aluminum plate melted I raised hopes also....but deep down inside I suspected....well... that knock-klackish sound in stethoscope is pretty clear and strongest at oil filter or above at dizzy hold down bolt.
I bet I will find something around or very close to pistons #5 or #1...
 
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snovak

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Guys, this weekend I was throwing car together due to yearly vehicle inspection (MOT) which I should have done two weeks ago...
Some pictures of front suspension and painted h-pipe attached. I thought that bearings will help so I put some effort in k-member and suspension.... :-(

Eitherway, I did not change anything except tried as a last resort new FRPP spark plug wires and BEHOLD: knock is kind of away or not audible enough.
BUT NOW I have more issues:
- engine shivers like one cylinder is not working and occasionally hicks (miss) with well known metal-to-metal knock sound (irregular every few seconds)
- some whining from AOD after warm
- popping at low rpm (when in R,OD,D,1)

It is late Sunday evening here so I had no time to investigate more into this new situation...
Maybe simply a knocling cylinder died, or I had damn bad spark plug wires all the time....
I will check vacuum, compression etc....
 

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snovak

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I will be honest. Got it on first look. Damn. For the second time in a row I switched spark plug wires in hurry, #5 and #6 this time. Forget last post.

BUT this time it was not for nothing:
-#5 and #1 cylinders off (first journal) and knock is not audible (knew that from past tests)
- #5 and #6 switched by mistake, knocks only every few seconds...
Again, I am now almost positively sure that I will find something wrong with piston/cylinder #5.
As the engine keeps running strong, it may be a wrist pin as @General karthief suggested a while ago...

BTW Passed the inspection today, and I am road legal until 11/2022 :)

Now I will slowly take everything apart again and pull the engine...
I won't be pulling the tranny so if there is a way to move it a bit back and avoid pumping that ATF out again, let me know....
For example: If I leave ATF in and disconnect cooling lines will I have leak from tranny or the line connectors are above liquid?
 

snovak

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Howdy!

Lookin' fine, I just miss some time, approximately like additional 23 hours per day ;-)

Engine is on stand since Wednesday, but me...I'm on the trip to mountains with SWMBO and kids :)

I will keep You informed and documented as I tear down this 302, don't worry. It will be fun in garage, we are down to low 30 degrees this week...
Since last post I found some shiny particles (like aluminum dust) in oil behind oil pressure sensor, in that hex pipe.... We will see soon from where....
Compression test before pull shows lower values for #7 and #8. Cold engine, lower value dry, higher value with 5ml oil injected in cylinder.

AOD... Guys from first drop of tranny and now a second one... is it possible that ATF is not moving around? I started to think this since tranny cooling lines were almost empty this time...

P.S. This engine comes out piece of cake... so anyone hesistating - pull it out now!!!
 

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snovak

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Wrist pin.
Yes :-(
More than two months ago, @General karthief you were absolutely right!

Heads are off and I have distinctive click on #5 downstroke....but still need to see if damage was done to piston itself or rod... goddamn strongest part in engine (pressed wrist pin) was damaged...

Furthermore:
- #5 has slight scratches and ridge from piston skirt I suppose, about 1" into the bore...
- #1 has scratches on three places.
We will need to bore the cylinders to 0.020".

Any recommendations for good quality/durable pistons and rings?

Edit: added some pictures
 

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Noobz347

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Yes :-(
More than two months ago, @General karthief you were absolutely right!

Heads are off and I have distinctive click on #5 downstroke....but still need to see if damage was done to piston itself or rod... goddamn strongest part in engine (pressed wrist pin) was damaged...

Furthermore:
- #5 has slight scratches and ridge from piston skirt I suppose, about 1" into the bore...
- #1 has scratches on three places.
We will need to bore the cylinders to 0.020".

Any recommendations for good quality/durable pistons and rings?

Edit: added some pictures
No specific recommendations but you might steer clear of forged pistons unless you're planning boost.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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I can't recommend any specific brand, I'd look and see what rebuilders use like Jasper or Ford Performance on daily driver engines.
Mahle, wiseco are couple brands that have been around a minute
 
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mikestang63

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Yes :-(
More than two months ago, @General karthief you were absolutely right!

Heads are off and I have distinctive click on #5 downstroke....but still need to see if damage was done to piston itself or rod... goddamn strongest part in engine (pressed wrist pin) was damaged...

Furthermore:
- #5 has slight scratches and ridge from piston skirt I suppose, about 1" into the bore...
- #1 has scratches on three places.
We will need to bore the cylinders to 0.020".

Any recommendations for good quality/durable pistons and rings?

Edit: added some pictures

i would go with whatever your engine builder or vendor you are sourcing your parts from is recommending to match with your build,. there are too many options. TRW, Mahle Total Seal are popular options
 
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manicmechanic007

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Forged TRW or better
You only want to do this once
Speed pro combination cast iron and moly rings
 
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snovak

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Thnx guys. @mikestang63 there is no builder, I am builder :) :-(

I found only these on summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2482f20 but ain't floating pins...
On rockauto I have Enginetech and Sealed power available...
BTW What is the stock CD on 88 GT? 1.605?
I see pistons from 1.585 to 1.619?

Worth to mention, after OEM bearings, I can tell that my engine was completely virgin, I was even the first with the heads off.
I will pull the crank out these days....
 

manicmechanic007

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Those should do nicely
The machine shop would have to full float the pins for you (hone the small end of the rods and cut circlip grooves in the pistons)
One of the advantages is that you can pull the piston off the rod yourself