Yeah, I personally think like You about those pumps.Oil wiping out bearings? What?
Service Tip: Using a High Volume / High Pressure Oil Pump on an engine that has stock bearing tolerances can over-pressurize the oiling system and lead to rapid engine wear and damage
Close call. This is my assumption also.Something wonky with a rod bearing or cap.
Just a guess, I'm not a mechanic but I play one on line.
They are not likely fully seated yet. Keep looking.Compression test done on really cold engine (few days not runnin):
I expected more from moly rings and tight hypereutectic pistons, but they have only shy 300miles on them...
Maybe a fresh rebuild cold engine is not a good test?
Hence allthru low, numbers are within 10%.
Spark plugs look okay. Tip is burning by book (perfect), bottom at thread a bit oily #3, #4 and #7.
Intake PCV hoses (PCV valve to upper intake) contain a bit of engine oil.
No noticeable fluid leaks found up to now.
My mechanic told me I have a pretty good ear. I heard first time cylinder bore knock, second time thoose wiped beardings...Those are called wiped out
Most likely from no oil pressure
Thank God you got to it before you spun a bearing and ruined the crank
Now those are witness marks!
I was thinking the same about metal in engine. If camshaft got it like main bearings (only scratches) I will get away with it....Don't worry too much about the metal in the engine
It'll just keep you up at night
Clean it out the best you can and let the new oil and filter do its job
I mic'd crank after grinding to .010, it was too small on first measuring batch at rod journal 3 and 4.Did not realize your crank was wiped out too, undersize? or chewed up?
It's not all about money, but confidence, pride, joy in work and time with kids and family lost....10k in machine work and parts on my first build
You are damn near there
this is probably a dumb question but is there a way to do a rear main seal without going to crazy like pulling motor and transHi guys!
So, the parts arrived from Rockauto and CJPony parts... after cleaning the hell out of back engine and AOD, I may have found out oil leak source.... surprise, surprise - back side of valve covers.
TBH You could never really see them without passanger side engine chain support bracket away from #4 exhaust port, and also exhaust manufold and AOD dipstick plus SMOG downpipe away contributed to nice piece of engine visible and accessable to analyze leak source....
I just hope that knocking was from aluminum bellhousing / engine plate and therefore proceed with assembly:
- I changed rear main seal, wasn't leaking much but it was stearing in my face... method I used was a really really thin layer of black RTV on outside perimeter, white grease inside on contact with crank flange... we will see the results
- I don't dare to take out the torque converter (read some scary stories about people not setting them it properly all the way in and destroying a pump), so I just cleaned front of TC and bellhousing, also a pivot and crank hole from rust and... shall I lube it with a bit of red hi-temp gearing/joints lube to avoid rust in future?
- aluminum bellhosing / engine plate from CJ Pony parts arrived but I had some test-fit issues with dowel pins (does not fit due to too wide dowel pin holes distance), so I need to ream the holes a bit to outside and as I read on reviews I am not the only one...
- for a flexplate I got nice ARP 12pt bolts which have thinner head than stock ones, and I hope TC won't touch them anymore as it did the OEM ones...
- I also got some ARP stainless bellhousing bolts, but unfortunately they are only 1.500" long. OEM ones are longer so I am affraid to use them...
- Then I got stuck with new flexplate....
I took Pioneer FRA-214HD heavy duty flexplate due to corrosion protection.
Unfortuntely (and luckily) I made a test-fit of a plate to TC, and the studs are a tad more to outside than holes on brand new flexplate!!
I would roughly say that the flexplate is ~11.45" and TC studs 11.5".
Yes, I turned it several times around and we are talking about the torque converter studs to the flexplate holes.
Just in order to explain how small the difference is: I can get the flexplate on converter with two studs in, third one on the way and fourth has problems... guarantee You that a rubber mallet would get the fourth stud in if I would be crazy enough to hit the plate towards TC, but there is 99% danger or chance of stripping a TC bolt...
Only soltion is using die grinding/reamer to carefully extend all four flexplate holes a little bit (0.5mm or like 0.02") to outside... anybody been there, done it?
Or shall I just use an old faitful 32 year old OEM flexplate... ?
ya I figured it was since it's the aod I'll have to have the guy who rebuilt the transmission have a look at itI would use the old flexplate if the ring gear teeth are in good shape
If not, die grinding the new flex plate bolt holes is no trouble
Mattys91gt, The rear main is a full circle on yours, Means the trans and flywheel/ flexplate must be removed to replace it