Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place
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- Jul 7, 2005
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I will keep you informed as I build the 1st one. Once I get past my two items left on the list I can put it in the car for a testing phase.
Then can start on the Oil Pressure and Fuel Level gauges.
- Jul 7, 2005
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Parts have been ordered!
I also ordered parts for my other '88 Mustang to get it back on the road for when I take this one off the road for the upgrades...Door Weatherstripping (leaking on drivers side), Oil Pressure Sensor (malfunctioning reading low when warm), and Fuel Pump (which is the reason its parked).
I also ordered parts for my other '88 Mustang to get it back on the road for when I take this one off the road for the upgrades...Door Weatherstripping (leaking on drivers side), Oil Pressure Sensor (malfunctioning reading low when warm), and Fuel Pump (which is the reason its parked).
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- Jul 7, 2005
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Still waiting on my parts to get in, but was able to get to the local Pull-A-Parts. They had a 1990 Foxbody there, but was gone by the time I got there which sucked. There were 2 Crown Vic's so I pulled a spare distributor that I will rebuild and put on the shelf as a spare. I also got some additional plugs for a future project of building a new engine wiring harness, so I got the 60-pin computer plug, TFI module plug, Coil plug, and IAC Valve. Couldn't find the TPS as they were both gone already.
Getting ready for the new upgrades requires me to get my other mustang back up and running. It sat for 5 years, so I am trying to go through it. Currently have an issue with it wanting to start and stay running. I drove it to my house but died out of the blue as soon as it was pulled into the driveway and wouldn't restart. Thank goodness it died at the house and not on the road. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was clogged, but it didn't fix it. Checked the shrader valve and fuel dribbled out with not pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump yesterday. I primed the system and fuel pressure was back at the fuel rail.
Issue now, If I prime the system a couple times it will cough and maybe start, but will not stay running. If it does start and you give it gas it immediately dies. I only put 2-3 gallons of gas in it, so it may be just "low" on gas. I will put more in it and fingers crossed it fixes the issue.
Getting ready for the new upgrades requires me to get my other mustang back up and running. It sat for 5 years, so I am trying to go through it. Currently have an issue with it wanting to start and stay running. I drove it to my house but died out of the blue as soon as it was pulled into the driveway and wouldn't restart. Thank goodness it died at the house and not on the road. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it was clogged, but it didn't fix it. Checked the shrader valve and fuel dribbled out with not pressure, so I replaced the fuel pump yesterday. I primed the system and fuel pressure was back at the fuel rail.
Issue now, If I prime the system a couple times it will cough and maybe start, but will not stay running. If it does start and you give it gas it immediately dies. I only put 2-3 gallons of gas in it, so it may be just "low" on gas. I will put more in it and fingers crossed it fixes the issue.
Amazon product ASIN B07BDJZ1X6View: https://www.amazon.com/DZS-Elec-Step-down-Regulator-Converter/dp/B07BDJZ1X6/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1525709044&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=12v+to+3.3v+converter&psc=1
Amazon product ASIN B018370ZREView: https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Waterproof-Converter-Step-down-Transformer/dp/B018370ZRE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525709044&sr=8-3&keywords=12v+to+3.3v+converter
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- Jul 7, 2005
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I wish I could, but one is not MS. It is a completely stock so not way to get a datalog. I have been spoiled with the MS as it makes it a little more work to identify issuesdatalog...... so i can help look at stuff.
well thats no good.... you could do a fuel pressure check and make sure it is holding pressure on the rail.
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I will probably do that as well. At least it has pressure at the rail now then like before it just dribbled with Little to no pressure.
I just hope it is as easy as needing more gas in the tank. I did completely empty it so hopefully that is the issue.
@Noobz347
@stanglx2002
DC to DC converter is doing it the hard way and is definitely overkill. The LM series of voltage regulators will do everything you want at the cost of less than $2. The TO92 package voltage regulators will easily fit inside a piece of 1/4" heat shrink tubing along with a couple of capacitors and an inductor. This is needed to filter the electrical noise that fills the automotive electrical system of all automobiles.
See https://www.mouser.com/Semiconducto...egulators/_/N-5cgac?P=1z0wa2eZ1z0y3jsZ1z0z63x and take your choice.
The electrical system of an automobile is home to 40KV pulses radiating from the ignition system, electrical motors that power the ventilation system, along with power windows, windshield wipers, power seats and all sorts of other things. Then you realize that the 12-14 volts that powers all this stuff is absolutely nasty with all sorts of electrical noise. The inductive spikes and surges that flow through the car's power buses are capable corrupting or destroying any poorly designed or unprotected electronic device.
You may want to consider an offline sanity check of what you are doing; PM me and let's talk.
@stanglx2002
DC to DC converter is doing it the hard way and is definitely overkill. The LM series of voltage regulators will do everything you want at the cost of less than $2. The TO92 package voltage regulators will easily fit inside a piece of 1/4" heat shrink tubing along with a couple of capacitors and an inductor. This is needed to filter the electrical noise that fills the automotive electrical system of all automobiles.
See https://www.mouser.com/Semiconducto...egulators/_/N-5cgac?P=1z0wa2eZ1z0y3jsZ1z0z63x and take your choice.
The electrical system of an automobile is home to 40KV pulses radiating from the ignition system, electrical motors that power the ventilation system, along with power windows, windshield wipers, power seats and all sorts of other things. Then you realize that the 12-14 volts that powers all this stuff is absolutely nasty with all sorts of electrical noise. The inductive spikes and surges that flow through the car's power buses are capable corrupting or destroying any poorly designed or unprotected electronic device.
You may want to consider an offline sanity check of what you are doing; PM me and let's talk.
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- Jul 7, 2005
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I am keeping it simple and using a voltage regulator for reducing the 12V ignition supply to the needed 3.3V to the GPIO pin of the RPi to sensor if the ignition is on or off. This setup will be used to auto shutdown the RPi after a set time delay of the ignition being turned off.
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Still that is not the best route. The same type of 3 terminal voltage regulator will provide 5 volts.
See LM323K http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm323-n.pdf It is a 3 terminal T03 case 5 volt 3 amp regulator - cost less than $7.
Or
See http://sribasu.com/hobby-centre/high-current-dc-regulated-power-supply-circuit-with-lm317-5-amp.html
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I tend to pay attention to jr's posts in these matters. His solutions tend to be simpler and more elegant than my usual sledge-hammer approach to most things electrical.
- Jul 7, 2005
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- Jul 7, 2005
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My parts have shown up yesterday. I have been a little distracted with getting my other mustang back up and running. Come to find out these cars like to have more than just a gallon or two of gas in them to run. What a thought....
After putting in another couple gallons of gas in it well it started just fine with the new fuel pump. Pulled the drivers side door weatherstripping since it was leaking, and with the rain coming in this week it needed to get done asap. After that it got a bath, since it hasn't had one of those in 5 years. I had to see if it was leaking anymore
. Still have to put in the passenger side weatherstripping, new oil pressure sending unit, and a couple other odds and ends.
I can then shift my focus back to the digital dash.
After putting in another couple gallons of gas in it well it started just fine with the new fuel pump. Pulled the drivers side door weatherstripping since it was leaking, and with the rain coming in this week it needed to get done asap. After that it got a bath, since it hasn't had one of those in 5 years. I had to see if it was leaking anymore
. Still have to put in the passenger side weatherstripping, new oil pressure sending unit, and a couple other odds and ends.I can then shift my focus back to the digital dash.
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- Jul 7, 2005
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Well I got the last part ordered and should be here early next week. I can then put together the power supply and program the shutdown process script. This will finalize the digital dash to test run it in the car.
I am so happy to get to this point.
I am so happy to get to this point.
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Like I said, I think everything you're doing with your cluster is far and beyond what 99% here are capable of. Especially from scratch. I'd be thrilled just to able to connect an iPad to the damn ecu for tuning processes.
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With all the craftsmanship you have shown us I truly appreciate your feedback. I have put tremendous amount of time into the design, functionality, and easy of use. More time than I ever excepted that's for sure. The good thing is that it's also done and are really happy to see the final product.
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I just noticed that I never put a final picture of the dash display in the instrument cluster. Still needing the finalize the power supply but at least have all the components to build it.
Maybe i asked this already.... but is there an lcd screen that is longer to fill the space more? or would that not work with the design?
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