88 Lx Speed Density

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by nicholas domenicone, Nov 8, 2013.

  1. I have a a few questions about my SD mustang, now before i get the typical answers of search the forums or convert to MAF, i have already researched quite a bit and still have some questions and i'm not looking to do more work than i have to so if i can stay SD i'd prefer to. I'd like those who have dealt with or have SD cars to jump in on this as much as possible.

    The setup i want to run for my daily driver is this: AFR 165cc heads, edelbrock rpmII intake, 70mm TB, CompCams 1.7 rockers, possibly 24# injectors if needed, 3.73 gears, Eibach shock strut and springs, MM subframes, and PAPerformance 130 amp alternator.

    Will i need to modify my speed density system with this setup or something similar to it? if so how?
    Issues you have run into while running a similar setup on your own car with SD?

    Thank you in advance for all the help.
  2. You can tune that setup with a TwEECer, MOATS, or Anderson PMS. There may be others.


    You can leave the 19 lb injectors in and see if that's going to be enough to support that combo (I suspect that they will be). You might check around for an SD friendly cam since you're going to the trouble of changing the heads anyway. A new timing chain is also recommended.

    If you discover that the 19s are on the boarder of feeding that combo, then an adjustable FPR can provide the little bit of extra pressure needed to put you solidly into the AFR zone.

    Running 24 lb injectors with an SD computer can be hit or miss. They will work, but idle and drivability at low speed can suffer because the minimum injector pulse is different between a 19 and a 24.

    Try the 19s first, get a good AFR reading, then go from there.
  3. Awesome info, thanks man. Do you know of any good SD friendly cams off hand by chance?

  4. There's a little more to it than that, (which is why I didn't recommend one to begin with). My advice would be to call up Anderson Ford Motorsports, or the cam vendor of your choice, and tell them your entire setup or fill out a cam card.

    It's simple enough to give you cams that are SD friendly, but what you want is one that is SD friendly and will make the most of your other components. I'm no cam specialist, so would not hazard a guess. I tend to leave that sort of thing to the pros.
    nicholas domenicone likes this.
  5. You can just advance the stock HO cam 4 degrees and add with the set of 1.7 RR call it a day or any good cam with 114 lobe seperation would work. Couple I would pick

    Crane made a decent SD cam back in the day. I ran it with a set of aftermarket heads, tb, etc... Crane 2030 or 2031
    Comp Cams also makes a good SD cam - xe270hr14
    Crower 15511 cam
  6. i'm going to write down all this info for when im ready to start purchasing parts, if its worth it i might take out the stock the cam.
  7. I agree, keep the SD EEC DA1 & 19lb injectors for now. Don't get too wild with the heads intake & cam. I found the most satisfying upgrades to be suspension rather than engine, so I would suggest to do that first, that's what I did.

    At times, I wish I never went the supercharger route, a lot of expense, a lot of other things you have to do to make it work. Big power costs big money, bigger power costs bigger money.

    This first: Eibach shock strut and springs, MM subframes, and PAPerformance 130 amp alternator.
    Then this: 3.73 gears for auto, 3.55 for 5 spd.
  8. That's pretty much the order i was going to do it in maybe slightly different but the same line pretty much. I'm not looking at changing the car to FI i wanna stay NA. Why do you recommend 3.55 for a standard just curious?

    Also now that it came to mind, im probably doing an overhaul on the sound system at some point, got to have my music, considering i'll probably upgrade the radiator and fan and i am keeping the A/C will the 130amp keep up with this. I've heard some people upgrade but it still pushes the limit of them if they have multiple things on at the same time.
  9. 3.55's or 3.73's - how many rpms do you want to turn at 60 or 80 mph?, 1st gear is almost useless with either. Fuel economy will suffer some. The auto transmissions of the time needed more gear just to get moving.

    130A is plenty, unless you're going to use it for a welding machine. 130A will output 100A continuous. The factory 65A or 75A could barely output 50A. The engine is my music, SC whine drowns out most everything. My website has the 130A upgrade & the fan upgrade instructions.
    #9 Blown88GT, Nov 10, 2013
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2013