88 Mustang GT 5 lug / disc conversion (almost done!) parking brake question


Active Member
May 6, 2019
Afternoon all.
Well, my 5 lug SN95 disc conversion is almost complete. Just to set the stage, I have an 88 GT 5.0 Automatic Convertible and this weekend I (with the assistance of a couple of younger guys to help with the heavy lifting) swapped in a 5 lug 8.8 axle with 3.73 gears and trac-loc, new upper and lower control arms, and new springs and isolators The axles are Ranger axles with the appropriate brackets for 1994 GT brakes (discs and calipers). In the front, powder coated lower arms (stock) with new bushings and sn95 ball joints. New springs and isolators, struts, inner and outer tie rods. SN95 spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers from the same 1994 GT. Replaced rear hard and soft brake lines and probably a couple of other things that slipped my mind. Tires and wheels 17" split 5 or 10 spoke (GT) wheels with Hankook P245s on the rear and P235s on the front.

Still need to install rear sway bar, hang the exhaust, bolt up the drive shaft, do an eyeball front end alignment (so I can drive it to the alignment shop) swap out the brake booster (mostly from the same 1994 GT) and a number of other odds and ends.

So, after all that... Parking brakes! I had the handbrake "fixed" cut the spring and tab. Welded the stops (then I saw a post here for a part that I could have just bolted on (who knew?)) I bought the short center brake cable that goes to the tee and cables for an SN95 parking brake set up. I also bought brake cables for a 1994 GT (This is where my problem lies, I'm sure of it). I re-read the ford racing document on the 5 lug / disc swap and found that I should have bought either 87-92 fox with rear disc (M-2809-A) or 93 cobra with rear disc (F3ZZ-2A635-A) cable, which I did today. I also bought the 93 cobra bracket that goes into the tunnel, which I'm not sure that I need.

Here is my question (Finally!) What, parts do I need to finish up the parking brake set up? I'm pretty sure the 94 gt cables are wrong. Of the cables I ordered today, which, in your opinions, are the correct ones? Most importantly, do I run the new parking brake cables in the same manner that the original ones were? Yes, I do have the cable guides that bolt to the rear sway bar.

Any help is appreciated.

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Active Member
Apr 16, 2015
I used 94/95 V6 rear cables. Routed them basically the same as stock. With these cables you will need to install a front mount bracket from an SN95.


You need the bracket the cables connect into. The one on the right with the big rivet is not needed but can help hold cables away from driveshaft (on a lowered car). I fabbed my own that closely replicates the needed bracket. I then zip tied the cables to the factory football brackets (that the OEM cable would curve in).

An alternative to modifying the Fox handbrake is use a 94-04 hand brake and modify the rear mount tab (cut off and move forward about an inch and reweld). Then you have a factory spring intended for rear disc cables.


SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
In the garage
There is a sticky on brake upgrades that has everything you need to know
You will need
  • adjustable proportioning valve
  • Gut the stock proportioning valve and use the MM plug
  • 3 to 2 brake line kit for the stock gutted prop valve to the new SN95 master cylinder
  • You can try and see if your stock booster work.. some have gotten lucky others needed to use the 93 cobra booster


Active Member
May 6, 2019
Thanks for the assist on this. Got the right cables and all is good with e-brakes, other than an adjustment. Now I have a new issue. I moved the car this morning and cleaned up underneath it. I left it where it was for a while. Doing a few things around the car and I notice the brake lights are on. Not sure about anything on the dash but the rear lights were on. The fluid level conn. is not connected to the master cylinder, not sure if it matters right now. Could it be a defective brake light switch?


Active Member
May 6, 2019
Wow... I really feel like a "genius" right now. It sounds so simple when you say it :confused: not sure why that never crossed my mind.



Active Member
May 6, 2019
I pulled up on the brake pedal and the lights went out. Something seemed "sticky" when I pulled up on the pedal. I'm sure there are some grease points I should address. I bought a new switch might as well use it. Since @General karthief mentioned pulling up on the pedal, what does that indicate? Bad Switch?

Please let me know

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
polk county florida
I've seen a bad switch do that, also have seen the hole on the push rod worn out too.
And I will add to look at the play between the pedal and the booster if it was swapped out.


If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
Sounds to me like the switch may not be on the pin that goes through the pedal rod the right way . If it isn’t locked in place it will move and leave the lights on the second you touch the pedal


i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
If the switch isn't installed exactly right, it will do exactly what is being described. The orieitation and spacers needs to be correct.


Active Member
May 6, 2019
Ok, I'll check out how the switch was installed tomorrow. I'll need to check out if it's binding. @General karthief mentioned play between the booster and pedal. Am I looking for too much or too little play? What is correct?

Thanks for the info.
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