Engine 88GT engine rebuild

Pdandy

Member
Nov 4, 2019
32
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Nebraska
Just picked up this 88 GT with a 347 stroker a few weeks ago.
Screenshot_20191103-175446.jpg


Seemed to run fine on the test drive and the drive home. But then it started to tick. Thought it was just a lifter that I found was loose. So I reset the lash on it and it was fine for a little bit then started making noise after a short drive. I pulled the intake and found that the spider tray had came loose and allowed a dogbone to jump out of place.

IMG_20191117_184129.jpg


This caused one of the lifters to basically disintegrate and destroy the cam.

IMG_20191117_185120.jpg


I'm pulling the engine this week and will use this thread to update my progress. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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Is it your intention to use most of the existing valve train parts?
Keep all the rockers, get a full set of lifters & pushrods & new camshaft?
Looks like the water pump & accessory pulleys are new as are the aftermarket fuel lines & injectors (green top , 42 lb).
New radiator & e-fan, too.

If it's in your budget, I would ditch the OEM 2G alternator which can only output 75A maximum, not enough for an e-fan or even the stock engine with headlamps & fog lamps.
Upgrade to a 3G, which is a very common upgrade; it's almost a drop-in, mechanically; needs larger wire to handle 130A.
BTW, 2G has external fan, 3G has internal fan.

Do not use the fog lamps until you get the electrical sorted out. They will overload the circuit & burn & melt switches & wiring which may already be the case.

I'm seeing quite a few '88's being sold lately.
 
Is it your intention to use most of the existing valve train parts?
Keep all the rockers, get a full set of lifters & pushrods & new camshaft?
Looks like the water pump & accessory pulleys are new as are the aftermarket fuel lines & injectors (green top , 42 lb).
New radiator & e-fan, too.

If it's in your budget, I would ditch the OEM 2G alternator which can only output 75A maximum, not enough for an e-fan or even the stock engine with headlamps & fog lamps.
Upgrade to a 3G, which is a very common upgrade; it's almost a drop-in, mechanically; needs larger wire to handle 130A.
BTW, 2G has external fan, 3G has internal fan.

Do not use the fog lamps until you get the electrical sorted out. They will overload the circuit & burn & melt switches & wiring which may already be the case.

I'm seeing quite a few '88's being sold lately.

I plan on re-using as much as I can. This was a fresh build 5 years ago and has only been driven 200mi since then. The guy who built it only put 100mi on it before selling it and the guy he sold it to only drove it another 100. I suspect they knew something was up with the engine and just didn't care to fix it or didn't know how.

It's funny you mention the alternator. I just watched Dulas video on YouTube on the 3g conversion. That is on my list of things to do.

Screenshot_20191103-175514.jpg
 
Is that paint on the lifter galley? Not sure that is a place I prefer to paint.

Judging by this post and your other one, the guy who built this had no clue.

Have the heads valve jobbed, at this point with a broken lifter you can't risk putting them back without a professional going through them (it's also worth about 15rwhp).

If it is really a 347, i'd get 30lb injectors and 80mm+ meter calibrated for 30's and pull the chip, you don't need it.
The 3g is a good idea.
I'd also find and reinstall the AC. The only thing removing it does is lower the value of the car. Saves little weight and nets zero hp.
 
Is that paint on the lifter galley? Not sure that is a place I prefer to paint.

Judging by this post and your other one, the guy who built this had no clue.

Have the heads valve jobbed, at this point with a broken lifter you can't risk putting them back without a professional going through them (it's also worth about 15rwhp).

If it is really a 347, i'd get 30lb injectors and 80mm+ meter calibrated for 30's and pull the chip, you don't need it.
The 3g is a good idea.
I'd also find and reinstall the AC. The only thing removing it does is lower the value of the car. Saves little weight and nets zero hp.

The deeper I dig into this, the more I realize he didn't have a clue either. Now I have the chance to do it right.
 
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I'd bet against.
Kinda why I said "if" it really is.
I really trust no one without hard core proof.
And nothing done to your engine makes any logical sense.
 
...If it is really a 347, i'd get 30lb injectors and 80mm+ meter calibrated for 30's and pull the chip, you don't need it.
The 3g is a good idea.
I'd also find and reinstall the AC. The only thing removing it does is lower the value of the car. Saves little weight and nets zero hp.
The pic of the injectors indicates they are 42's.
I wrote the "Bible" on the 3G conversion but that website is no more. It's archived here (minus the pictures):
 
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The pic of the injectors indicates they are 42's.
I wrote the "Bible" on the 3G conversion but that website is no more. It's archived here (minus the pictures):
Yeah, I knew from his other post he had 42's and a stock mass air (I guess there is a first for everything?).
That's why I said replace them with 30's. 42's have no place on any all motor 302 based engine.
If it turns out it's a 302 or 306 he should even go down as low as 24's.

If he wants to tune it after it's all said and works well, I guess he could but a basic hci barely if any benefits from it.
 
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While you’re at it, deck the block. These sbf’s have a reputation for blowing head gaskets. Need everything perfect. You can buy Cometic mls head gaskets in various thickness to adjust for any material removed by decking the heads and block.

If you imagine yourself being increasingly hungry for more power, build it for boost. You don’t have to boost initially, but its nice to be ready....when you are