Progress Thread 89 hatch hydroplanedrifterweldeddiff thread:

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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You're thinking in the right direction, most problems like yours comes down to cable/wire size/condition.
Your battery is in the back right?
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Houston, TX
Ya. I ran 1/0 copper for positive. But 1/0 cca for negative (copper clad aluminum). Batt to frame (clean spot) then frame to engine block.

Im thinking about adding a engine block to ground on strut tower where all my other grounds are. And a ground, from back of head to firewall.
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
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33
Houston, TX
Check this one out. Long story...

So im loosening my pos. On the starter solenoid. (Cuz my janky fan connection fell out when i bearly pulled on it lolz, i know) the :leghump:ing pos for the alt was loose enough and slid down and touched the neg.

Bitch starts turning over. Its in gear. Im in the garage. 4ft from the wall. I panic. Tried to hold it back, jist on first lurch, maybe. Not even sure. (the idiot is serious here) sliced fingers open. Who cares, this car is lurching forward 6in at a time right now.. lmao. I go in there to turn the key, like the :leghump:ing key is on. Didnt do :poo:. I was already at the wall, well the wall of bench tools and big rubbermaid table, so bearly lurches into it and cause enough hold .back pressure to blow the fuse for the battery, or maybe it just blew from trying to start like that 6-8 times, and shut it down before sum bitch goes thri wall and causes a major disaster for me. Lol.

Jesus christ. Almost a real PITA for me.

So i was talking sht about that fuse inline not needed, and it 100% saved my ass today. Course i shoulda just gone to throw it in neutral. But i was in panic mode. Lol. Once again i knew i was in big trouble (ie: when i started to hydroplane) its that feelibg of damn, im not getting out of this one easy.

Moral of story: keep the damn thing in neutral when working on it. At minimium. Disconnect battery if doing electrical work. I still wont follow that. Till i get shocked and hopefully dont die. Lol. But i will keep it in neutral. Lol.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,486
5,637
193
polk county florida
Get rid of that aluminium cable, it can't take the heat. And I don't like to lump all the grounds to the same spot, bad juju there
One ground from the battery up to the block, one from battery to body (like the mount for that horizontal shock), block to chassis (not the same place as the battery ground) usually on the opposite side of the engine, rear of drivers side head to firewall, and the computer ground of course
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,486
5,637
193
polk county florida
Check this one out. Long story...

So im loosening my pos. On the starter solenoid. (Cuz my janky fan connection fell out when i bearly pulled on it lolz, i know) the :leghump:ing pos for the alt was loose enough and slid down and touched the neg.

Bitch starts turning over. Its in gear. Im in the garage. 4ft from the wall. I panic. Tried to hold it back, jist on first lurch, maybe. Not even sure. (the idiot is serious here) sliced fingers open. Who cares, this car is lurching forward 6in at a time right now.. lmao. I go in there to turn the key, like the :leghump:ing key is on. Didnt do :poo:. I was already at the wall, well the wall of bench tools and big rubbermaid table, so bearly lurches into it and cause enough hold .back pressure to blow the fuse for the battery, or maybe it just blew from trying to start like that 6-8 times, and shut it down before sum bitch goes thri wall and causes a major disaster for me. Lol.

Jesus christ. Almost a real PITA for me.

So i was talking sht about that fuse inline not needed, and it 100% saved my ass today. Course i shoulda just gone to throw it in neutral. But i was in panic mode. Lol. Once again i knew i was in big trouble (ie: when i started to hydroplane) its that feelibg of damn, im not getting out of this one easy.

Moral of story: keep the damn thing in neutral when working on it. At minimium. Disconnect battery if doing electrical work. I still wont follow that. Till i get shocked and hopefully dont die. Lol. But i will keep it in neutral. Lol.
Holy sht!!! Talk about lucky!!
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
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Houston, TX
Omg. Smh. Ya it bearly bent the rubber maid table, still good. 1 little 1/2 hole/impression not even thru the sheetrock from one of the tools.

Cant believe i did that. But its just how dumb :poo: happens sometimes.

Wouldnt be surprised if it is the neg. cable. I bet it is. Alum just cant handle that current at that ft + heat. Just a little bit over the resistance threshold.
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
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Houston, TX
Actually, wouldnt it be the starter cable i should upgrade. My dang problem is i dont how electricity flows. Lol. Why would resistance from the ground cable cause hot starting is the question.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,486
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polk county florida
Not sure how to explain it. I just know the ground and power cables need to be the same size and materials, copper clad aluminum wire is a no no for automotive use, I do know that it can't take the heat, not heat from like say engine compartment temp. but heat caused from current running through it, I'm sure someone like @a91what or @jrichker can explain it better than I.
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
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Houston, TX
Also i recall reading, that the engine strap is the only ground return for the starter.. mine is non existent at this point. Ie: no head to firewall connection. Ima do those first, since its cheap and it should be tyere anyway. Here we go again.... lol. then ill go 1/0 copper ground if that dont fix it. Then 880cca battery test, return if doesnt fix it.
 

Rdub6

Mustang Master
Dec 29, 2017
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Here’s a good pic of the circuit.
The key pulls power from the battery that tells the relay to go down to the starter solenoid, which pulls in the “big power” from the big cables to crank the starter and start the engine. But electric is a circuit so it’s got to get back to the battery (through the big ground) so it can do it all over again!!

9163E0E8-8319-4D58-862D-F343197285BC.gif
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
17,486
5,637
193
polk county florida
I think it gets solved between doing all those solutions. We'll see.
Bingo, think of it this way, look what the factory did, they have engineers that know all about current and what size/type cables and where they go, and why they go there, you just need to figure in the length to cable size/type because your battery is in the back. Ever notice the factory don't use aluminum cables? And they don't stack grounds, with the exception of the computer ground, negative battery wire to inner fender panel then another wire from there to ground going into the wire harness with the cylindrical connector.
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
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Houston, TX
Here’s a good pic of the circuit.
The key pulls power from the battery that tells the relay to go down to the starter solenoid, which pulls in the “big power” from the big cables to crank the starter and start the engine. But electric is a circuit so it’s got to get back to the battery (through the big ground) so it can do it all over again!!

9163E0E8-8319-4D58-862D-F343197285BC.gif

Preciate it. But my neg. Batt doesnt go to starter how it appears directly. The starter is fed by the other cable coming off the starter relay.... That looks like a hi torque setup if i had to guess.
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
53
33
Houston, TX
Does still show the path or circuit needs to be complete to work properly though. Which based on my understanding my circuit is not complete. B/c no starter ground or no ground from engine to firewall/strut. My ground is batt to frame to engine block. I need engine block back to frame. Im thinking. Which is dangerous in of itself.
 

Noobz347

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I skimmed through much of this so feel free to beat me over the head with the details:

Put a new starter in. It starts faster. But the hot start issue still persists, apparently. Also ran the computer ground to the battery. Just cuz that needed to be done.

Also had my old 3k rpm cut out problem arise again. The new fuel pump did fix that for the last 6 months.

The ear was broke on my old starter, and the internal ms didnt look much better. Gear teeth were fine though.
20200905_145703.jpg

Was all excited b/c rain came and thought i was going to get to drift. But failed when the 3k cut out arose. Smh. Lol.
So i got it up to temp. Drove around 20 minutes. Came back, tested starting hot. Worked fine.

Went to gas station, let it sit for 5 minutes, then just bearly turned over.. and had to stop before it blows the stupid fuse that someone thought was a good idea to put on the pos+ battery cable. More over engineering from some unqualified source im sure.


I think your problems stem from a :poo:-azz Chinese starter. Why do I think this? Because I went through the same damned things. Wouldn't turn over when it was hot. Headers, right?
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
53
33
Houston, TX
Ya, Bbk shortys. I just got a new starter. But it didnt do it before my wreck/battery swap to back. Ill admit, i should have gone hi torque. But the lifetime warranty on the ultima at oriellys had me sold. And i quickly regretted it, when it didnt solve the issue. (Starts better though for sure, cold) Though by chance, a new starter was needed anyway.



Reinstalled strut brace today also.

Put in the fenderliners after yesterdays test and fail, i think a lot of water from tire got sucked up through filter, and the MAF didnt like it. Caused that cut out at 3k.

OR

My hood vent leaks right onto my coil which has shady connections of course. Bahaha. No theyre good, just not good. So i need to make a cover for that so water doest get poured right onto the coil connections. Lol. (Negative, went and looked closer, the coil connections are clear of water from the hood was prob #1 listed)

Anyways ran great tonight. No miss. Felt better with strut brace on, but could def use coil overs. Its pretty damn good for drifting in wet though. (No front sway bar)

Also here is the finger pic. And got a bunch of laps in tonight at the spot. Was primetime. Wet but not raining.

20200906_211828.jpg
20200906_194735.jpg
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
480
139
53
33
Houston, TX
That is my dads over built rabbit food/water bottle holder. Haha.

I got liquid bandage on the cut. Why it looks like that.