Holy sht!!! Talk about lucky!!Check this one out. Long story...
So im loosening my pos. On the starter solenoid. (Cuz my janky fan connection fell out when i bearly pulled on it lolz, i know) the ing pos for the alt was loose enough and slid down and touched the neg.
Bitch starts turning over. Its in gear. Im in the garage. 4ft from the wall. I panic. Tried to hold it back, jist on first lurch, maybe. Not even sure. (the idiot is serious here) sliced fingers open. Who cares, this car is lurching forward 6in at a time right now.. lmao. I go in there to turn the key, like the ing key is on. Didnt do . I was already at the wall, well the wall of bench tools and big rubbermaid table, so bearly lurches into it and cause enough hold .back pressure to blow the fuse for the battery, or maybe it just blew from trying to start like that 6-8 times, and shut it down before sum bitch goes thri wall and causes a major disaster for me. Lol.
Jesus christ. Almost a real PITA for me.
So i was talking sht about that fuse inline not needed, and it 100% saved my ass today. Course i shoulda just gone to throw it in neutral. But i was in panic mode. Lol. Once again i knew i was in big trouble (ie: when i started to hydroplane) its that feelibg of damn, im not getting out of this one easy.
Moral of story: keep the damn thing in neutral when working on it. At minimium. Disconnect battery if doing electrical work. I still wont follow that. Till i get shocked and hopefully dont die. Lol. But i will keep it in neutral. Lol.
Bingo, think of it this way, look what the factory did, they have engineers that know all about current and what size/type cables and where they go, and why they go there, you just need to figure in the length to cable size/type because your battery is in the back. Ever notice the factory don't use aluminum cables? And they don't stack grounds, with the exception of the computer ground, negative battery wire to inner fender panel then another wire from there to ground going into the wire harness with the cylindrical connector.I think it gets solved between doing all those solutions. We'll see.
Here’s a good pic of the circuit.
The key pulls power from the battery that tells the relay to go down to the starter solenoid, which pulls in the “big power” from the big cables to crank the starter and start the engine. But electric is a circuit so it’s got to get back to the battery (through the big ground) so it can do it all over again!!
Put a new starter in. It starts faster. But the hot start issue still persists, apparently. Also ran the computer ground to the battery. Just cuz that needed to be done.
Also had my old 3k rpm cut out problem arise again. The new fuel pump did fix that for the last 6 months.
The ear was broke on my old starter, and the internal ms didnt look much better. Gear teeth were fine though.
Was all excited b/c rain came and thought i was going to get to drift. But failed when the 3k cut out arose. Smh. Lol.
So i got it up to temp. Drove around 20 minutes. Came back, tested starting hot. Worked fine.
Went to gas station, let it sit for 5 minutes, then just bearly turned over.. and had to stop before it blows the stupid fuse that someone thought was a good idea to put on the pos+ battery cable. More over engineering from some unqualified source im sure.