Progress Thread 89 hatch hydroplanedrifterweldeddiff thread:

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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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Those tire sound a little grippy.
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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They were. Was getting semi bad wheel hop. But aired them up to 55psi cold, and it helped even the wear out majorly and de grip it a lot. That 45 sidewall was no fun at 40 psi. Was getting bad outside wear before that. Had to rotate tires on wheel to save em from early destruction. Near perfect wear at 55 psi. almost no wheel hop.
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Porting some E7's i picked up. I really want to eliminate most all of that valve guide boss and test it. Not just for flow but running wise, still way more than enough valve stem support i think.
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Hoytster

I don't dare do that to my Knob
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Have you looked at the many E7 porting resources on the web? There are tons of guys that have tried different porting techniques and flow benched them to show you where the most gains can be made.
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Carmicheal, ya, mostly finished on that valve guide boss. Still gonna play with the bowl, and everything. Lowering the port floor, making short side radius bigger, gets good results it shows (mimicking the gt40 port) but it's thin and water is on other side.


Hoytster, ya sure have. Could'nt find too much detailed stuff honestly. A few threads talking about it, DIYporting.com was about it. I want to pick up this E7 head porting video from jim valako, he was the person who hand ported 200 pairs of the saleen heads i believe. It's $40 though, and i'm torn in between doing it or not.

I will get a port flow tested when i'm done just for fun. Goal is 200cfm on intake. Also a before and after dyno.
 

Hoytster

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@Foxslider sounds like you're following the correct path by trying to mimic the GT40 port design. DIYporting is a good resource. There are some other good ones also geared directly to the E7, you just have to search and dig a little deeper to find them (one on fordmuscle comes to mind). I haven't watched the videos on youtube directly related to the E7 porting, but there are a couple on there also. Otherwise you are having to start piecing together all the good bits of information spread across all the different forum posts that cover this topic.

Personally, I would remove the ridge you have directly in front of the valve guide and blend everything in a little better. You can reference what the guy did on DIYporting as an example. You can get some decent power gains when all this is done correctly. Happy porting and good luck!
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Right on. That ridge there is a tip off ford muscle from joe mondello. Shaping that area like the TFS head was why i did that. DIY guy did his different. << His way might be better. I don't know.


Unless you're talking about the other raised part o nedge of valve guide hole, i'm going to take that down if we're looking at the same thing.
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Houston, TX
Hard to guess how many CC's this was taken off. Im sure its over 100 cc's of material. + 30-50 cc's lastnight.

Tested an exhaust port before i did all the intakes incase it broke thru, to not have a bunch of time in em then scrap em. Pics for :poo:s and grins.
Just took down that exhaust valve guide to make a straighter path with the port or "runners" and blended it to the bowl.

Solid 4 hrs of work. Got 1 head intake valve guides all done. The other roughed.
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Hoytster

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Right on. That ridge there is a tip off ford muscle from joe mondello. Shaping that area like the TFS head was why i did that. DIY guy did his different. << His way might be better. I don't know.


Unless you're talking about the other raised part o nedge of valve guide hole, i'm going to take that down if we're looking at the same thing.

Sorry, should have been more descriptive, I was eating with one hand and typing with the other when I responded. :O_o: I was talking about the ridge toward the inlet side of the valve guide. I'd keep the bump that you have nearest to the valve seat and just even and blend everything together a little more and create a little more of a knife edge on that bump. I haven't seen any flow analysis on what that does but I see a lot of the LS guys do that also with good results. I'm reading what seems to be a really good book on head porting (David Vizard) and hope he goes over it.

Good luck!
 

Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Ok, right on. Reading a book on head porting? Cool, you got it worse than me. lol. That book is tempting. I was gonna leave them as is with just the finish of the carbide burr, but i think i really need to go back with a sanding roll and make it a bit smoother after watching a bunch of head porting videos. Im just roughing them in near finish.
 

Hoytster

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Ok, right on. Reading a book on head porting? Cool, you got it worse than me. lol. That book is tempting. I was gonna leave them as is with just the finish of the carbide burr, but i think i really need to go back with a sanding roll and make it a bit smoother after watching a bunch of head porting videos. Im just roughing them in near finish.


Ha, my girl picks on me all the time for it. Most people like to read fiction books, I prefer to read technical/engineering books in my "spare" time. I must say, this book has been excellent so far.

And he did end up going over the purpose of the bump/vane toward the outlet side of the intake port in front of the valve guide, It has as very small effect on max flow but has more to do with wet flow characteristics and swirl. That bump/vane, combined with a slew of other minor changes to the port, encourages the charge to turn and swirl into the combustion chamber. He calls it a vane guide and if possible, you combine that with a longer vane guide in front of the valve guide that helps to split and streamline the airflow around the guide. You also scallop the area in the port to the right of the valve guide slightly (closest to the cylinder wall) which also helps to turn the charge more. I'd post a picture, but copyright restrictions prevent me.

I've found over the years that to really get proven, sound advice on these types of subjects, you must buy the books and do tons of research to weed out the bad information you get on the net. The people that really know what they are doing, get paid to know what they are doing as it's usually their job, and are not going to give out that information for free. I also like to know why a certain modification works, and not just that it does, so I can apply that knowledge to other problems. Just my exerience.
 
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Foxslider

im not that much of a idiot
Oct 25, 2019
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Nice. Makes sense. I should of took the time and bought/read that book before hand.
I took some of the point down after the guide since im not good at following directions. I'll re shape them and try to add the point back. I did try to give the air some nice split paths around the valve guide and follows a nice big radius ish right to the point at which point they will cross and swirl i assume.

Will post the flow numbers once i get them tested. Hope it gains a lot of improvement.
 

Hoytster

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It's all good man, you're doing fine with what your doing IMO. This is all just additional information to store for when you dive into porting a $2000 set of aftermarket heads :pPerspective here is you are porting a set of E7's, so the additional details discussed above might net you like 3-5HP on that design. The combustion chamber design of the E7 leaves much to be desired so you would have to make changes elsewhere to see much benefit to these minor changes. There are reasons not too many people port E7's anymore..
 
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