Engine 89 Lx Died And Left Me Stranded Today

omarimoe

Active Member
May 4, 2014
174
13
28
29
So i finally got my electric fan today along with my radiator so i decided to let the car idle for a while and take it for a blast down the street. I let the car idle for about a half hour to bleed the cooling system and let it get to temp. It seemed to idle ok i still have to set timing with a light but i had it right around 10-14 degrees. It ran fine for the first 5 mins then started to stutter when i would give it gas. Eventually the car just died and would start back up but then die after a second or 2. If i would give it gas it would just die. I ended up getting it towed back to my house but im kinda at a loss as to what would just cause the car to die like that? Maybe a fuel pump going bad? Possible TFI cutting spark? Anyone have any ideas? At this point the car just starts and dies.
 
  • Sponsors(?)


Grabbin' Asphalt

Mustang Master
Jun 10, 2013
2,032
309
104
Atlanta, Ga
Pull codes??

Couple things you can try in your drive way that won't cost you anything. Turn the key forward and listen for a relay click at the passenger kick panel near the computer, then listen for the click of the fuel pump relay under your seat or it's near your maf sensor at your air box depending on year, then listen for the fuel pump prime. All happen pretty fast. That will pretty much do the fuel side barring your fuel filter is not clogged or clogged injectors or bad fuel pressure regulator. Then you could check your spark easily, take an extra spark plug or pull one out of a cyclinder being used, attach it to your coil wire that connects to the top of your distributor cap, lay it on your intake so you can watch the spark from the drivers seat. Easier to see at night but that will let you know if your coil is bad. Think you can crank it with your foot on the gas pedal and it will prevent the injectors from dumping fuel while checking this. That should get you started.
 

omarimoe

Active Member
May 4, 2014
174
13
28
29
I haven't checked anything yet i hope i will have some time tomorrow. I do hear the pump prime, actually pretty loud. Fuel filter is less than 10 days old. i know i get some amount of spark because it fires right up but then dies. Ill get my spark tester kit out and confirm im getting spark everywhere and listen for the relays. Anyway to check the TFI module to see if its bad?
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
SN Certified Technician
Mar 10, 2000
27,400
2,845
234
74
Dublin GA
lowendmac.com
Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected 5.0 Mustangs model years 1986-1995

A word about this checklist before you start: it is arranged in a specific order to put the most likely failure items first. That will save you time, energy and money. Start at the top of the list and work your way down. Jumping around will possibly cause you to miss just what you need to see to find and fix the problem. Don’t skip any steps because the next step depends on the last step working correctly.


Revised 12-Dec-2011 to replace 10 pin salt & pepper connector graphic.

All text applies to all models unless stated otherwise.

Note: 94-95 specific changes are in red

1.) Remove push on connector (small red/blue wire) from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch to the Run position. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.

No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.) PIP sensor in distributor. The PIP sensor supplies the timing pulse to trigger the TFI and injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed. See paragraph 5A – Using a noid light will tell if the PIP is working by flashing when the engine is cranking.
C.) TFI module: use a test light to check the TFI module. Place one lead of the test light on the red/green wire on the ignition coil connector and the other lead on the dark green/yellow wire on the ignition coil connector. If the TFI is working properly, the test light will flash when the engine is cranked using the ignition switch.
D.) Coil
E.) No EEC or computer power - EEC or computer relay failure
86-93 models only: EEC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
94-95 models only: EEC or PCM power relay in the constant control relay module. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
Both 86-93 and 94-95 models: No 12 volts with the ignition switch in the run position on the fuel injector red wires. The relay has failed or there is no power coming from the ignition switch. Make sure that there is 12 volts on the red/green wire on the coil before replacing the relay.
F.) No EEC or computer power - fuse or fuse link failure
86-93 models only: Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires. All the fuse links live in a bundle up near the starter solenoid. Look for a 20 gauge blue fuse link connected to 2 black/orange 14 gauge wires.
94-95 models only: 20 amp EEC fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires.
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire. No 12 volts, blown fuse link or faulty ignition switch. Remove the plastic from around the ignition switch and look for 12 volts on the red/green wire on the ignition switch with it in the Run position. No 12 volts and the ignition switch is faulty. If 12 volts is present in the Run position at the ignition switch but not at the coil, then the fuse or fuse link is blown.
Note: fuses or fuse links blow for a reason. Don’t replace either a fuse or fuse link with one with a larger rating than stock. Doing so invites an electrical fire.
Ignition fuse links may be replaced with an inline fuse holder and 5 amp fuse for troubleshooting purposes.
94-95 models only: Check inside fuse panel for fuse #18 blown – 20 amp fuse
H.) Missing or loose computer power ground. The computer has its own dedicated power ground that comes off the ground pigtail on the battery ground wire. Due to it's proximity to the battery, it may become corroded by acid fumes from the battery.
In 86-90 model cars, it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/lt green wire.
In 91-95 model cars it is a black cylinder about 2 1/2" long by 1" diameter with a black/white wire.
You'll find it up next to the starter solenoid where the wire goes into the wiring harness
I.) Computer. Don’t replace the computer just because you don’t understand how it works. Computers seldom fail, it usually is a sensor or wiring problem that causes the problems.
J.) Bad or missing secondary power ground. It is located between the back of the intake manifold and the driver's side firewall. It supplies ground for the alternator, A/C compressor clutch and other electrical accessories such as the gauges.
K.) Engine fires briefly, but dies immediately when the key is released to the Run position. Crank the engine & when it fires off, pull the small push on connector (red/blue wire) off the starter relay (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Hold the switch in the crank position: if it continues to run there is a problem with either the ignition switch or TFI module. Check for 12 volts at the red/green wire on the coil with the switch in the Run position. Good 12 volts, then replace the TFI. No 12 volts, replace the ignition switch.

Wiring Diagrams:

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Engine Information Everyone should bookmark this site.

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 91-93 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/91-93_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 94-95 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/94-95_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


AutoZone wiring diagrams: You can navigate to the diagrams yourself via Repair Info | AutoZone.com and select the car year, make, model and engine. That will enable you to bring up the wiring diagram for your particular car.

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability: [/b]
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.

Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 2-4 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the EEC test connector and jump the connector in the Upper RH corner to ground. The EEC connector is near the wiper motor and LH hood hinge.



If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the Schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In a pinch, you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have. If you have any doubts about having sufficient fuel flow/pressure, rent a fuel pressure test gauge from the auto parts store. That will tell you for sure if you have adequate fuel pressure.


4.) No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) 86-90 models only: Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay.
91-93 models only Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
The fuse links for all model years 86-93 live in the wiring harness near the starter solenoid.
94-95 models only: 20 amp fuel pump fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. Look for 12 volts at the Dark green/yellow wire on the constant control relay module.
F.) Engine seem to load up on fuel and may have black smoke at the tailpipe. Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove the vacuum line from the regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while the pump is running. If fuel is coming out the vacuum port, the regulator has failed. Check the regulator vacuum line for fuel too. Disconnect it from the engine and blow air though it. If you find gas, the regulator has failed.

5.) Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.
A.) The PIP sensor in the distributor tells the computer when to fire the injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed.
A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector circuit to see if the injectors are firing. The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and try to start the engine: it will flash if the injector is firing.

I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.
B.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
C.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.

The injector power pin is the VPWR pin in the black 10 pin connector.


D.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the EEC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.
E.) TPS voltage exceeds 3.7 volts with the throttle closed. This will shut off the injectors, since the computer uses this strategy to clear a flooded engine. Use a DVM, a pair of safety pins, and probe the black/white and green wires to measure the TPS voltage.
On a 94-95 Mustang, probe the black/white and grey/white wires to measure the TPS voltage.
It should be .5-.1.0 volts with the key on, engine not running. Note that if the black/white wire (signal ground) has a bad connection, you will get some strange readings. Make a second measurement using the battery post as the ground to eliminate any ground problems. If the readings are different by more than 5%, you may have a high resistance condition in the black/white signal ground circuit.

6.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.
A.) Failed IAB or improperly set base idle (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car. See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently. If you removed the distributor, there is a good probability that you installed it 180 degrees out of time.
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
E.) No start when hot - Press the throttle to the floor & try starting it if you get this far. If it starts, replace the ECT.
F. ) Engine that has had the heads off or valves adjusted. Do a compression test to make sure the valves are not adjusted too tight. You should have a minimum of 90 PSI on a cold engine.
 

omarimoe

Active Member
May 4, 2014
174
13
28
29
Turns out the pump is shot. I got to checking things today and since the fuel pump is what i suspected originally I figured id start with the fuel system. I have power at all the injectors and they pulse. all the relays click/operate. the fuel filter is brand new and clear. I get very little pressure at the rail on prime then nothing. I can hear the pump kick on but sounds very faint not like before or like it should. If i hit the throttle body with starting fluid the car fires right up and runs as long as i keep spraying the fluid.

All this lead me to believe the pump was shot so i dropped the tank today and i am surprised the car ever ran at all. the hanger assembly and pump look like they have been through WW1, theres all kinds of floaties and junk in the tank, and what i thought was just a little bit of old gas turned out to be a gallon or two of the nastiest mud colored varnish/paint thinner i have ever seen. I ordered a new 155LPH Walbro fuel pump and new hanger assembly. Anyone have any advice on cleaning the tank out? Should i just dump out the old gas and blow it out with a garden hose and then let it dry? I have a radiator place down the street from me that has one of those big vat's of whatever to clean radiators. Worth asking them if they would soak it/clean it out for me?
 

Spaz

Member
Jan 5, 2013
80
11
19
48
Pennsylvania
I think most radiator shops can clean and pressure test a gas tank also. Check the price before you do it though because a brand new gas tank is $113 w/ free shipping from latemodelrestoration.com. Backing up a little bit. You said you got a new electric fan and radiator. Then you said you "still have to set timing..." Why would the timing be different? Just wondering if you did anything else because to put in an elec. fan or radiator you don't have to be anywhere near the distributor.
 

omarimoe

Active Member
May 4, 2014
174
13
28
29
I think most radiator shops can clean and pressure test a gas tank also. Check the price before you do it though because a brand new gas tank is $113 w/ free shipping from latemodelrestoration.com. Backing up a little bit. You said you got a new electric fan and radiator. Then you said you "still have to set timing..." Why would the timing be different? Just wondering if you did anything else because to put in an elec. fan or radiator you don't have to be anywhere near the distributor.
I just never had a chance to set timing with a light. Im guessing right now its somewhere between 10-14 degrees.
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
9,901
6,685
204
In the garage
I wouldn't bother messing with the old tank. It's 20+ years old and crudded out. Get a new one for $100 from LMRS with the stangnet discount code and be done with it. Make sure you order new filler neck seal and O ring seal for the pickup.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Grabbin' Asphalt

omarimoe

Active Member
May 4, 2014
174
13
28
29
I wouldn't bother messing with the old tank. It's 20+ years old and crudded out. Get a new one for $100 from LMRS with the stangnet discount code and be done with it. Make sure you order new filler neck seal and O ring seal for the pickup.
The tank itself really doesn't look all that bad just the fuel and floaties that are in it. My new pump wont be here until Thursday - Friday anyway so in the mean time ill see what the radiator place wants to clean it and if its only like $50 ill just have them do it. I also have to go to ford and get new gas tank strap clips because one of them was rusted and stripped so I ended up having to cut it off. Anyone have a part number for the little clip with nut that slips in the body? Its the one that the gas tank straps bolt onto ober the rear end.
 
Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
S Car died while driving, so I left it!! Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 8
A Car starts but dies Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 2
Andresquintana.mma Engine Runs perfect, dies when warmed up, starts perfect. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 10
Mixveez Bad idle and dying in neutral. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 5
91GTstroked Engine Gas smell in cabin, car died on highway. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 19
maisonmays22 Cannot figure out why my engine dies at idle Digital Self-tuning Forum 11
MSTNGGRL1995 Rough, loping idle and random attempts to die 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech 1
Josh_J Starts then dies SVT Tech Forum 4
J 1991 GT just up and died while driving Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 4
G 98GT, runs fine when cold, dies after warm 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 1
7 Need advice other than its a ford.my son purchased a 94 mustang gt 5.0 he was driving earlier and it dies now no fire 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech 8
$ Crank then dies unless I give it throttle 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 2
M Electrical 1993 LX 5.0 runs for only 30 seconds at a time before dying. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 1
N Please Help I'm Having Trouble with my 1994 Mustang GT 5.0 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech 6
2 Electrical foxbody runs and then dies going down the road band you turn the switch back off and on and it fires right up don’t even have to crank back up Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 11
dvelek Motor dies when Volt meter jumps around and winds up at 11 Volts 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- 0
J Engine 90 LX 5.0 won't keep running, dies at idle Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 2
G Engine Two problems fox dies when wot and... Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 15
0 dies at idol when put in park 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 1
M Mustang 02 v6 misfire car starts but dies right after 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 2
R Need help with car dying SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech 2
R 08 GT Starts and then immediately dies 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech 15
Y Supercharged 302 (carbed) dies when braking hard 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk- 1
A 94' Cobra Dies with AC is on 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech 41
R 2000 mustang runs rough and dies when warm SN95 V6 Mustang Tech 10
Mustang Christine Car dies in idle?? Out of ideas?? Please help!! 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk- 2
C Assistance NEEDED PLEASE - Dies Coming to Stop SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech 3
C mach1 died while driving 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 2
1 Just bought 1983 Mustang GT dies when put in nuetral Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 4
G 1996 cobra dies at idle. 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 1
9 95 GT Help! - 2500rpm Rev then Dies 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech 11
9 1995 Coyote Swapped Cobra Dies. 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk- 1
9 1995 Coyote Cobra ?s Car dies 1994 - 1995 Specific Tech 1
C 2000 3.8 Rpm Drops low and Dies during slowing down, stopping, engaging clutch or braking SN95 V6 Mustang Tech 13
B Electrical 90’ lx dies while driving or idling randomly please help Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 13
shufixer Remote start on 2000 GT issues after instal, anti theft kicked in car died 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 4
Hudson N My 1991 keeps dying, help. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 12
nickyb Engine 1993 died then cranked no start,then started? Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 10
F Engine 1990 Hard Start. Engine dies when throttle applied Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 16
B 2015 battery keeps dying 2015+ (S550) Mustang -General/Talk 2
FetusLasVegas Engine 89 GT Dies at idle, surging around 1-1.5k while cruising Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 40
Calcul0n Engine 1993 GT - Engine dies when letting out clutch in gear. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 6
Ryan96MustangGT Car dies when turned off 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 2
Eulers Engine '87 GT - No Ignition - Motor Died Suddenly Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 14
S Engine 95 5.0. Car dies when I turn the wheel at idle Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 6
W Engine 85 49,000 miles just dies Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 3
G Starts Then Dies Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 11
B 2012 V6 Mustang dies and won't restart until cooled 2005 - 2014 Specific V6 Tech 0
T 2004 V6 Battery died @ idle with AC on SN95 V6 Mustang Tech 1
J Engine 88 LX - Dies at highway speed fires up with key off/on rotate. Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech 3
Similar threads