Engine 89gt-overheating-questions

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by stang89bidges, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. the spring is always nonattached just push it in and be sure its away from the pump end some. its not gonna move once its in if its not loose in the hose...
  2. That scares me a little. It's brand new only like 2 months old. The spring was inside the water pump inlet. Lower radiator hose. Original factory 1989 water pump did this? Man they certainly don't make em like they used to... :flag:

    PS: Water is being sucked out from the lower hose and pushed into the radiator through the upper hose correct?
  3. Yes goes in engine from lower comes out upper.
  4. sorry I didn't chime in sooner
  5. Good thought! I just replace the heater core two winters ago. Went with aluminum.

    This brings me to a new question. I have a flow restricter inside the heater hose at back of engine just before going into the heater core. Do these cause problems or is it a good thing to have? Daily driver with a SC.

  6. Unless you like replacing heater cores, the flow restrictor is a MUST. Always installed to the core inlet side.

  7. Any parts store should have these. If no on-hand then they should be able to get within a day. Buy a brand that you know of. Goodyear, Motorcraft, etc... Stay away from Yokafootachooey, Grantatelli, etc.
  8. LoL, I have one installed. It's metal. Old school.

    PS: The inlet side of the heater core is the connection on right? Correct? Er, facing the firewall, 2 tubes coming though, its the one on the right?
  9. [​IMG]

    You can kinda see how the hoses lay. Holler if you need something better than that pic and I'll see what I have.

    Oh... and the Summit Brand rad hoses are damned good too. I have one with roughly 50,000 miles on it and another with over 100k on it.
  10. My experience with two foxes spread out over 44 years and half a million miles
    other than one stuck thermostat, the only non-straight forward cooling issue I ever had was due to both heater cores eventually beginning to leak. My 5.0 did exhibit one of the scenarios you outlined wherein if I required the cooling system to dissipate the maximum amount of heat the engine is capable of generating by operating the engine at maximum output (consequentially generating triple digit speeds) the cheap arsed low ball auto retailer aluminum single core non-5.0 radiator couldn't keep up ;)

    You've got a 2.3L four banger single core radiator on your forced induction Five Liter Mustang
    an prolly a leaky heater core ;)
  11. But it's brand new! You really think it's already gone bad on me?
  12. Sorry what is brand new?
    What I'm a sayin' is: my understanding of this thread so far is...
    you've gone so far as to remove your water pump ! at least you've not pulled the heads heh
    in an attempt to trouble shoot 3 possibly different issues? (wait did I miss the non-stuck thermostat lol)
    1. loss/leaking of coolant
    2. burping coolant after running
    3. a misdiagnoses of coolant in the exhaust tract due to a blown head gasket?

    1. possible heater core
    2. a single core 2.3L radiator installed on a forced induction Five Liter
    3. um I think you'd know if it was trashed to that extent ;)

    So bypass the heater core just to test to see if loss/leakage ceases
    (if you've made the thermostat wacky return it to normal configuration)
    then just know that if you jam yer foot in the motor keep an eye on the water temp gauge,
    I'd imagine you can notice the heat build-up right away and should see a return to normal range
    upon easing off on the engine power output.

  13. /thread
  14. Another great find. More money... Do radiators grow on trees somewhere?

    I also just made another online order today when I found out my water pump studs were completely damaged due to oldness and heat. Nobody had them local. $60 friggin bucks...:drink:

    I'm leaving the radiator alone for now. What started as a $500 worth of upgrade and little things here and there to replace the aging components of the 25 year old car quickly turned into a $1200 money pit of maintenance.

    I know I know, I'm...... :dead:
  15. If were you able to remove the studs from the block without having one snap off in the block requiring it be drilled out and then having to fuch around with a heli-coil or some such nonsense you can now rub your lucky rabbits foot, pat yourself on the back and have a cold one, while yer up can I get a soda? ;)
    stang89bidges likes this.
  16. yeah don't bother getting a radiator just know that you can easily use your right foot to generate far more heat than your lil radiator can dissipate in a timely manner

  17. Welcome to the show. Now you understand the term 'supporting mods' and know that they go on first. :jester:

    What's even better in that now you are here. There's TONS of people here that can help you to avoid this kind of thing with your next mod. :nice:
    #37 Noobz347, Apr 14, 2014
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2014
  18. Would you like a glass full of ice with that soda sir? Coming right up!

    Guys I really appreciate the advise. As soon as I get my new studs in from latemodel and get my water pump and some of those upgrades bolted on I will go ahead and bypass the heater core and see what happens. If it is the heater core, it may be a rough 4 hours of labor but I have 2 things going for me.

    1. I know how to do it from 2 years ago.
    2. They are only like $30.

    Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I was in the middle of my wishlist getting purchased when this overheating problem started... Here's that thread check it out, maybe some of your wisdom can help out with some of it too. Like i'm already contemplating sending the fan back and waiting to upgrade that to a dual fan with a new radiator. There is a nice kit on latemodel. - http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/89-gt-wishlist.876131/
  19. Get Lincoln Mark VII Fan, a fan controller, and upgrade your alternator to a 3G the RIGHT way.
  20. Regarding the 3G alternator, what do you mean the right way?