Engine 89gt-overheating-questions

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by stang89bidges, Mar 26, 2014.

  1. Run a 4g, fused wire, and do not reuse the factory harness for power. Adding an additional FAT ground wire is also recommended.
  2. You mean this guy?


    I got the power wire installed on Sunday. The video on latemodel states at the end that the battery fits with the fuse holder installed just above it. Well, it doesn't when you upgrade your battery to an 800 Cold Cranking Amp battery! Actually it fits but just barely. Some day I may move my battery to the hatch.
  3. Yup.. That's the one. A lot of folks go through the hassle of putting the 2g pulley onto the 3g.

    You don't really need to unless your audio system is an amped nightmare.
    stang89bidges likes this.
  4. I upgraded my positive and negative battery leads to 2AWG also. Those cables aren't cheap but I think they will be well worth it especially when I get the electric fan in the mix. I already installed new headlamps that are HID and ran from ballasts. I think that alone was already playing havoc on my electrical system.
  5. Question. When installing the new studs should I use some anti seize?
  6. Not necessary but yeah you could use a sealer on the bolts that invade the water jackets
    a touch of anti seize on the others. Just know that since you have replaced these studs now you will never have the magical experience that so many have enjoyed time and time again of snappin' em off in the block ;)
  7. so why all the resistance to a new rad? its gonna get hot in a few weeks and regularly overheating that engine will end up costing you allot more....

    from where i sit desertdawg and noobz have pretty much layed it out for you...

    anyway resto aint cheap but result is more than worth it, looks like from your other posts your wishlist is coming along nicely....

    perhaps everyone can give you an idea for inexpensive rad
  8. Which bolts invade the water jackets? Crap I'm a little worried. I sprayed some oil in all the holes to clean them out with all the gunk that was in them after taking the old studs out. Then I sprayed air into them after they sat for 24 hours. Did I just shove dirt, rust, and oil into the coolant system?
  9. No resistance, just out of quan... It has had that single core radiator on the car for over 2 years with no problems. I hardly ever get on it. It's a daily driver and I am that guy in the far right lane just chillin like its ill 90% of the time. I like to know that my car will last a long time, but every once in a while I feel the need to blow a camaro or anything foreign off the line at a stop light when their ego gets the better of them :burnout:

    It's an easy install later when I have more money and I certainly intend on doing this asap! I just ordered the brake upgrade from MM and those studs with more door parts also so i'm cutting myself off from spending any more savings... You know how it is ;-)
  10. aw gee man don't mind me, I'm just going from memory (they say that's the first thing to go? ;) )
    of when a buddie called me up all distraught saying that he'd snapped two off while changing
    the water pump. I was able to coax one out that was busted above the surface. He'd tried to drill the other to use an ezy-out but the bit had walked damaging the threads, ended up jury riggin' a heli-coil in there.
    As I recall they were the one's near the water passages. Use sealer on those and the threads.

    yeah buddie I hear that! View attachment 117006
  11. for sure I get it! i think we're all in that boat ....
  12. Well, got everything back together. New electric fan installed. New water pump. Flushed Coolant system. New 180 degree thermo. New rad iator cap(pressure tested 16lb). Still leaking fluid.

    It is only leaking fluid from the overflow. What is happening is the coolant is leaking out of the rad cap for some reason and filling up the overflow to the point of spewing out of the top of overflow's(overflow tube). No leaks anywhere. No leaks in new heater core either.

    I'm pretty sure what's going on. I'm back to thinking it's a blown head gasket. What I think is happening is the gasket is barely leaking and it's on the exhause side of a port. Therefore when driving it's pushing exhaust pressure into the coolant system and therefore causing 17+ lb's of pressure into the coolant system and therefore opening the rad cap and letting too much coolant into the overflow.

    Sucks to be me! I'm going to run a cylinder test sometime this week hopefully and that should tell me if the gasket is blown.

    Edit: I also wanted to say that when I drive it slow for a week(keep low rpm's) the water lasts much much longer in coolant system. Doesn't leak out as quickly. But when I get on it just once, it starts loosing water from the cap very rapidly and when I take radiator cap off I have to fill it quite a bit with fluid agian. And the system isn't overheating while fluid is in the system. So this tells me there is extra pressure from somewhere causing the rad cap to open and let water into overflow tank and then fill up and leak out of overflow.

    When I let the car cool(with the overflow tank full from driving) it sucks that water back into the radiator. When I park and let cool and come back and check under car there is always a small puddle under car but it's very very small. I think mostly it leaks out at a small constant rate while driving. But when I get on it it leaks violently out the overflow tank there is so much pressure pushing water from radiator to overflow it sprays all over the side of battery.
    #54 stang89bidges, May 28, 2014
    Last edited: May 28, 2014
  13. I don't envy you, but I do wish you luck... My cooling system was a nightmare when I got my car. 3 water pumps, timing cover, few thermostats, 2 radiators, electric fan then back to mechanical, and head gaskets - finally got a good cooling system now.
  14. Well hopefully, the third time will be a charm ;)
    (next is a spun rod bearing)

  15. I have always heated the crap out of pump bolts that snapped before doing ANYTHING ELSE. I use the hand torch with the yellow bottle.

    For drilling, I have a set of spacers lying around (you know the ones... plastic box with all different sizes). I'll either tack on a spacer or hold it in place by other means to keep the bit from walking to the threads. The easy out that I use is pyramid shaped. Smack it in with a hammer and back it out with the t-handle.

    To date: No Windsor water pump bolt has failed to come out.
  16. Yeah thanks guys. I went the slow and long route with this troubleshooting but I have certainly learned a LOT about the cooling system of a car.

    FYI: Closed system. It does suck the hot water that escaped into the overflow back into the radiator through the little hose. My overflow would be completely full after a good drive. Then I would let cool and the water was mysteriously gone! And no, it wasn't on the ground... :p
  17. I laffed, assuming the overflow reservoir is functioning properly, checking coolant level is a
    visual affair
    stang89bidges likes this.
  18. Hahaha, good one. Wasn't expecting that when I clicked on the link. :crazy:

    I got my car up to the garage this weekend finally. I intend on performing a cylinder test before I start ripping off my heads but I wonder how hard it's going to be to get to the dam spark plugs... I think this will be a perfect oportunity to go ahead and change out the spark plugs. Been running them for 3+ years now.

    That is the only thing that makes sense to me(head gasket leak) is that since the car never overheats(unless too much water shoots out the reservoir) its shooting exhaust into the coolant system and filling up with too much pressure and causing the rad cap to depress and allow water out and into the overflow.

    I wouldn't think it's a cracked head since the car still runs like a champ.

    Oh yeah, and now I have a squeeling belt something comming from the engine bay. Appears my belt tensioner is on it's way out... Another cost...