Paint and Body 90 LX Passenger Door Alignment/Adjustment

cturboaddict

Founding Member
I'm working through my drag car build, and while waiting on some parts, I wanted to tackle some of the body panels/alignments. Front fenders are coming off for a tube front end in the next week or so, and I noticed that the passenger door's alignment is a bit off.
The gap at the rear is really wide between the end of the door and the quarter window. You can literally see in through the door/weatherstripping to inside.
The front gap at the A pillar is very tight.
The door when closed sticks out slightly proud of the rear body panel.

Door opens and closes fine. There is no wiggle in the hinges when the doors are wide open.
Below are a few photos, (as well as some drivers side photo for reference, as it fits fairly well) my thoughts were to adjust the striker to allow the door to close a bit better, and then loosen the hinge bolts to slide the door a bit back (open up the A pillar gap). Any thoughts or direction is appreciated.

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90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Looks like the door striker needs to go in some.

With my hinges all the way back I still have a slight gap at the rear of both doors. I still can't see in the car or even the seal itself. A panel prying stick is great to help get the gaps even. You'll also need a jack at the back of the door. The door will have to be open about 2 inches with the jack under the bottom near the back. The door will drop when you loosen all 6 bolts. The hard part is adjusting for the hinge sag in the door. This means you have to jack it up higher in the back than where you want it. On the front of the door I used a panel popping stick to raise the front of the door.
 
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cturboaddict

Founding Member
Looks like the door striker needs to go in some.

With my hinges all the way back I still have a slight gap at the rear of both doors. I still can't see in the car or even the seal itself. A panel prying stick is great to help get the gaps even. You'll also need a jack at the back of the door. The door will have to be open about 2 inches with the jack under the bottom near the back. The door will drop when you loosen all 6 bolts. The hard part is adjusting for the hinge sag in the door. This means you have to jack it up higher in the back than where you want it. On the front of the door I used a panel popping stick to raise the front of the door.
Don't know if I've ever heard of a "panel popping stick"? I'm getting ready to yank off the fenders anyway, Figured that's the best time to sort this out before putting on new weatherstripping.
 

Monkeybutt2000

Advanced Member
Aug 11, 2019
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Loosen the hinge to body bolts just enough so that when you use a drift and a hammer,you can monitor how far each hinge moves. If you want to match the drivers side gap, unless you have a taper gauge or flat mm gauge you'll have to come up with something on your own. I've got lot's of tricks as I do this daily at my job.