90stang5speed Rear Mounted Turbo Project Thread

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 90stang5speed, Apr 26, 2011.

  1. i just read the thread man and i dunno. i do salute you for thinking outside the box, but i think if you have got to have it in the car with you ida put it in the trunk, and facing 90 degrees the other way. so if it does fail then it will just blow to the sides of the car and out the hatch, then through your fuel tank, but thats another bridge that would need to be crossed.

    you do have the skill to turn it sideways. even if you do it in its location its in now. id scrap the box it sits in and just turn the damn thing sideways, then figure out your pipe routing after that.

    to be honest id still be worried about it hitting you if it blew up if it was in a box that was made from 1" steel.
  2. Thank you for your suggestion. I don’t remember if it was suggested before but, the 90* turn is something to look into. That would change that whole plane of rotation thing. The part that would suck is the T4 flange is a rectangle so that would have to be cut & rewelded. The exhaust would have to be rerouted as well as the plumbing going back to the engine. I want to keep the box but, it would need to be to be modified as well.
  3. You must be 10.5 to 11.3(ish) under boost!
    Don't run it lean.
    Start with 3-5 psi until fuel readings are rich, start pig rich to cover you ass.:nono:
  4. none so far

    I have never seen a rear mount fail and blow up the housing. Dave Martis(American Iron),D'vans drift car all had them inside the cab .No issues .Period.

    I did see some crazy diesel rigs that were spraying NOS (into the turbo)and running 50-70 psi of boost that did.

    The compressor side will be 120 to 140 degrees after dyno pulls so the hot side won't be much more than that.

    We did mount most of the turbo units under the cars for the most part.

    If you mount the turbo in the front, it will make less power, you will have to run more boost and be @ more risk for engine damage(way more heat). On any app front or rear mount the tune is key.

    Anyone that wants you to change is scared of things they don't understand or only know enough to be dangerous.

    I know it works and I just don't respect anyone that has not tried something, but is an expert on it and "knows" it won’t.

    Guys like that would still be running front engine set ups in Top Fuel, propellers on aircraft instead of jets.

    There were aircraft in WWII that ran rear mount turbo’s.

    If front mounts make more power, than you should tape a running blow torch to the turbine side so You can make more power. NOT!:eek:
    Horsepower PER pound of boost IS the question, not how much boost you can make.
    I make no claims to any company(now) , but I know firsthand the technology works.
  5. We still use props.... one of our newest jets is a prop plane. Props is a way more sophisticated system and way more moving parts but it is highly effective and is cutting edge technology..... ok I'm done with my $.02 of aviation knowledge.
  6. They still use top fuel motors in funny cars...
  7. Props to props

    They are neat until the sound barrier.
  8. 11.2-11.8 is a safe boost AFR
  9. Call STS

    I would go on the rich side when starting out. There is zero benefit when starting out lean. None.
    Call or email the tuning dept/tech line and ask them.
    The boost comes on fast and is way different from tuning a front mount or blower.
  10. I just talked to Rick at STS just the other day with a few questions & sent him some pics of my setup. We talked about AFR & a few other things that he saw that could be done a little better with the exhaust system.
  11. Good deal

    So what was the verdict on the A/R ratio?

    With special focus on where to start........
  12. With the A/F Ratio, I think he said to start some where around 11 & go conservative with timing to and slowly tweek each. Snow Performance recommends 12.5 with meth injection. I will aim for about 12 as I get everything dialed in.

    As for things he saw that I could do better, he said that I should go back & delete the exhaust cut out of what used to be the X pipe. He said that will cause so unwanted turbulence. He recommended that I upgrade the header collectors from 3 bolt to a V band style also.

    I made a little progress last night in building a homemade catch can for the vent tubes coming off the valve covers. Its not picture worthy yet but, it coming along. I need to buy a clamp on style breather filter & some hose to run to the catch can from the valve covers.
  13. Good job

    Keep up the good work!

    The Meth kit is supplying quite a bit of extra fuel. I remember a guy running 600rwhp with dinky stock injectors and the only supplemental fuel was the meth kit ! I would never recommend or do that, but it proves a point of how much additional fuel it can provide.

    I would like to run the v-band style on my N/A 70 mustang. They are cheaper hedders with the slip style flange and I am convinced they will suck. I am bummed out a bit because they are coated, and I would need to grind off some of the coating to weld on them.
    I have Hooker Super Comp's on my 71 and they have the welded flange, way better but I have even have had some issues with those over the years.

    I really think you will like the vband set up. Let me know what it costs.

    The wastegate dumping back into the exh is cool too. Someday if you get some time and $$$$ you could make a 2nd tail pipe with it if you wanted.
    STS sells the little flanges to the wastegates separately.
    We would do that for f-body guys that freaked out only having a single exh pipe, and didn't want to look like a v6 dude. :flag:
  14. 3" V band

    I have found a 3" V band clamp & flanges in a kit on ebay for about $20 plus shipping. So for about $55 you could do both headers.
  15. Cool

    Wow I guess I can aford it!:nice:
  16. Yeah, the price isn't too bad. For 60 bucks I can get the 2x2 steel for my through floor subframes so I will probably do that first if I can get funding approval from the boss (WIFE).
  17. Thanks for the link. Someone else had pics of the car but, to read the write up on it was nice. Thanks again. Now if I could just get some work done on mine so I could post up some more build pics it would be nice.
  18. 60??? Whachutalkinbout Willis? You still haven't found yourself a local steel supplier?

    In Birmingham, they have steel suppliers that also sell "drops" that sit exposed outside in bins barely covered by a metal roof.

    So you see, There are steel suppliers, and then there are steel suppliers.

    I bet I could get a piece of .125 wall 2x2 in an 8' section (which should be enough to build the SF connectors) for 20-30 bucks. You only have to run a flap wheel over the steel to get rid of a little bit of mild surface rust.

    At the rate you're going, you're gonna have 73 gajillion just in steel by the time you get finished.:rlaugh:
  19. That 2x2 .125 wall only come in a 20' section. They will cut it into sections so I can transport it but, you have to buy the whole thing. I dont want to spend big bucks on metal so I have been cutting sections out of my old fenders & hood for patching & small gauge stuff. My heat extractor fan duct is actually made from a used 15w40 5 gal metal bucket lol. Wait until you guys see what I do for the air filter box. Just as a hint, remember the comment about having a grenade behind my back.