90stang5speed Rear Mounted Turbo Project Thread

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 90stang5speed, Apr 26, 2011.

  1. No pics but a little long winded update.

    I had tried a few times to adjust settings in my tune with no real progress so I decided to look up the factory settings for the LMAF. I loaded that tune into the TWEECER and went for a start. At that point Murphy’s Law (AKA Travis’s law) jumped up and kicked me in the ass. The battery that I have had on slow charge for a week was dead. I took the new bat out of the aveo and put it in the mustang. It fired right up but seemed to start missing. The AFR was around 17+ at idle. The warmer it got the worse it ran. By the time it was 170*, AFR was at 19-20 then the idle slowed down & the car died. After several attempts to start I decided to check fuel pressure. With just the key on fuel pressure was only 20 PSI!!!!!! I unplugged the loud ass oil pump so I could hear the fuel pump. It was making noise but didn’t sound quite right. I went to adjust pressure & it wouldn't go up. ARRRRGGGGGG!!!!!! 20 PSI is where the gauge sits normally when the car is off. I added a gallon of fuel then checked the resistance on my fuel gauge sending unit wire. I had 35 ohms so I know I have enough fuel in the tank. I cracked the feed line and drained the 20 PSI off. Then I flipped the switch on the fuel pump and saw that massive amounts of fuel were spraying out. So now I was thinking that my new regulator must have gone bad. I tightened up the fuel line & flipped the switch on again. I looked at the gauge & to my surprise, it now read 65 PSI. I said what the hell & went for a start. It started & idled in
    the 11's-12's. While it was running I dialed the pressure back down to 42 PSI. It now idles around 14.4-13.8 I snapped the throttle open & there was less hesitation. AFR goes to 17+ when I snap the throttle open. Then iit drops into the low 12’s or mid 11’s. The AFR goes to 12-13 when the throttle closes & hangs out there for a couple seconds before coming back up to low 14's. I have no idea what had happened but seems to be running better now. Also the slow hot start went away with the battery swap so I'm headed to autozone to see if my battery is in the free replacement period. I'm kind of wondering it something was in the tank & the pump sucked it up. When I turned the pump off, whatever it was maybe floated away? It’s always something.

    Oh, one thing I forgot to mention, I found the main ground to the body for the battery & the pump was a little loose & I could move the pump ground. Since the fuel pump & oil pump are on the same power circuit, I wonder if that loose wire caused the oil pump fuse to blow. The oil pump is fused. The fuel pump currently is not. After this issue, it will be getting a fuse. I got a new bat from AutoZone. I welded in a ground stud, a 3/8 (9/16 head) bolt to the roll cage floor pad. Then I soldered the grounds that were previously twisted & taped together. I started the car & all is well so far.
  2. 131 IAT's @ full boost

    Stick a fork in it, its done. Here are the final results. On the dyno it made 353 ft/lbs torque and 325 RWHP on 8 lbs of boost. The IAT held at no than 131* with a 1.5 loss of pressure on the way up from the back (on a very hot engine with hard pulls). That should put the flywheel HP and torque well over 400 which was the goal for this build. There was one pull made when first setting the controller that was over 450 ft/lbs of torque and 403 RWHP at 10.5 lbs. I ask the tuner to turn it down to 8 for safe, beat on it all you want day to day driving (and also I'm afraid that it will get away from the wifie and get her hurt). Anyway, "he" wanted to go up to 14 and felt the engine would handle it. It may have but it is a stock block and crank and I wanted it to stay together. To me, once you breach the 400 mark it becomes useless unless you can put it on the ground.

    I wanted to share the super low intake temps so all the kids can stop worring about the "hot" rear mount crap. Link is below

    I think I fixed the link now? I suck @ stuff like this.
    Page back for the pictues.67 Evil Eleanor is the poster. It should inspirational for you.
  3. thanks for sharing the story but, the link only took me to another forum. Not sure which post is yours. as for me & my build. it has been put on hold for a while but I finally ordered the breather filter for the catch can from summit & it should here soon. Talk about good customer service. I was going to drive to the summit store in GA. to get it but, because they didnt have it in stock there when I called, the sales rep waved the shipping charges & sent it to me. I built the air filter box and when it was done, I realized that it looked retarded so that plan is getting scrapped. That was a waste of $20 and a lot of my time.The side scoops are going to be redone also. They are going to be taller & stick out of the car a little less. I have started making some patch panels for the beat up quarters. Once I get the filter I will post up pics of the homemade catch can. I will also take pics as I go of the quarters & scoops. With any luck, a co-worker might be getting me a deal on some 2x2 steel for the through floor subframes but we will have to wait and see how that goes.
  4. Well if your source doesn't work out, there is still Econo steel here in Birmingham. I just got a bunch of steel for my painters car, and they charge about .60 a lb. for the stuff sitting outside under the covered bins. I got 30' of 1" square .125 wall, 10' of 1.1/4 x 1.25 round tube; and 8' of .062 wall 2" square tube. It cost 59.00.

    Maybe I could get you the two pieces you need cut to length and ship to you? Should be able to do it out of one 10' length.

    P.S. If you're gonna redo those scoops, think about whether or not air will probably ever get forced into the openings anyway (remember the yellow car in earlier posts) Air deflection off of your front end might not be of benefit to small air grabbers hanging out, so you might as well turn those openings into similar holes.
  5. Thanks Mike for the advice about the scoops. You are probably right about the air deflection and the scoops not really forcing any air into the turbo or the heat extractor box. While my first attemp at the side scoops didnt look all that great, I dont think I want a big 4" gaping hole in the side of the car either. The next attempt will kind of resemble some of the newer style mustang side scoops. If I can find a pic of what Im talking about, I will edit this reply to include the pic. As for the 2x2 steel, if my co-worker fails to get it for me. It might be a good excuse for a road trip to check out your car & pick up some steel. To blackened88lx, I know this project isnt exactly a popular one but, This is my first project so its also a learning experience in many areas at the same time. It will never be a show car. Im going for performance over pretty right now. As my skills improve, maybe someday I will build a fast car that looks good doing it. until then we can all just drool over Mikes creations and wish to have such talent. Here is a pic of the side scoop concept. I like the way the scoop fallows the curve of the wheel well opening. The scoop is still kind of boxy so I think its something I will be able to fab up. The scoop is going to be wider than what I have now & it wont stick out as far so it should look a little better.
  6. STOPPPPPP!!!!.
  7. ok tried to post a pic but it came out as a link so just click on that in my last post.
  8. you didnt happen to use the "hose clamp method" to install your springs did you???
  9. "hose clamp method"? Im not sure what you are talking about there but it looks like you brought my thread back from its coma before I could. The wife has put my progress on hold for quite some time now.
  10. I think he was asking if you have been hit in the head really hard.
  11. LOL. Ok, well it wouldn't be the first time someone has made a comment like that in this thread. thanks for explaining it.
  12. no thats not what i meant i was just joking, ive been in your shoes, everyone thinking im crazy/unsafe, before haha
  13. I recently installed some mustang springs similar to the ones you installed E'Samuelo. I put them in my 85 camry. The install went well with the use of your thread. Made sure I wore safety glasses though, just in case. Then, I drove straight into a tree doing 30 mph on a 250 shot. Followed by this:

    View attachment 179360
  14. ok. all jokes aside guys, I hope to have some more pics to post by the end of next weekend. I have finished the PCV catch can & have started on the drivers side qt panel mod. once I get that tacked in I can redo the side scoop. Im doing all this in the drive way so we will see how the weather looks by then. Its not fun welding in the rain lol.
  15. I think 8 pages ago you were talking about Maf sensors. Maybe switching to a slot style sensor? I am in the process of upgrading to a slot style sensor.. 05+ mustang or pretty much any ford or most Mazda sensors. Looks to me like they use 1 sensor for just about every vehicle. The one I bought on eBay can be used on 05+ mustang, expedition, fiesta and about a hundred other vehicles. It's the same sensor as my 2010 Mazda cx-9. just depends on what size tube you put it in. There is a Maf transfer calculator floating around on eectuning.org that you can use to help you get started with the Maf transfer. Oh and by the way I paid 10$ plus 6$ for shipping.. It's a ford sensor not a replacement. It is used but looks brand new. Just wanted to throw that out there to save you a couple of bucks since your up in the tuning part of it.. This is what one of the guys on eectuning.org recommended. He said he does it all the time for customers.Better than spending 200$ for the same thing with someone else's name on it.
  16. thanks for the info. I will have to research that more before I buy a maf.
  17. a little update

    Nothing picture worthy but, I finished the front half of my brake upgrade. I put 86 SVO calipers, pads & MC up front. I still need to pick up the rear rotors, calipers, mounting brackets & adjustable brake valve. for the first time in over a year, I took the car around the block a couple times to rub the rust off the rotors & found that I have an oil leak at the rear of the intake. I also found out that putting the BOV inside the car under the passenger seat was a bad idea. I snapped the trottle open once while going around the block and while I only built 0.8 lbs of boost, when I let off, the BOV blew out quite a bit of air. I will be relocating it to the front fender well. We are in the process of buying a house & packing up the old house so the car will be sitting again for a month before I can do any more to it.
  18. I need to read the posts better

    Man I never noticed you had mounted the bov in the cabin area. That seem a bit extreme. Its loud under the hood, especially with the import style trumpet bell hanging off them. I love the sound, but not that much.
    I am glad to hear from you and that you are still trucking along.
    The other idea I had(don't really do it) is to hook 6'to8' foot of dryer hose and a long stick to bov and when you let off the throttle hold it over people's sun roof and or side windows. That should turn so heads.: shock:
    Make sure the BOV and wastegates are pointing down so that water won’t freeze in it or crud build up effecting its operation.
  19. Good idea on the relocation of the BOV, good luck on the relocation of you.