Suspension 91' Mustang Ball Joint Questions?

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by Exile, Apr 9, 2013.

  1. I have a 91' Mustang, and am wanting to replace/upgrade everything on the front suspension. (ball joints, tie rods, steering rack, struts, springs, bushings, ect.)

    I read that when it comes to replacing the ball joints that your really suppose to replace the whole a-arm with new ball joints?

    Is it a must to replace the whole a-arms as well? Or is there a way to just press the old ball joints out, and press new ball joints in?

    If I do have to replace the whole a-arms will UPR's tubular a-arms work with my stock k-member? Or are UPR's tubular a-arms only meant to work with UPR's tubular k-member?

    These are the parts im upgrading with.

    Moog ball joints
    Moog inner/outer tie rods
    Tokico Blue struts
    Ford Racing "C" springs
    Prothane bushings
    Cardone performance suspension steering rack
  2. I think a lot of people choose to upgrade to tubular a-arms but I don't think it's necessary. I replaced my balljoints last year with new Moog replacements. Press the old ones out and press the new ones in. I just rented the balljoint press tool from Advance Auto.
    Exile likes this.
  3. What he said^. No need for new A arms. You can bring it to a shop and they can press the balljoints/bushings out & in for you if you don't feel comfortable. The factory arms are fine for most people and you keep the stock wheel location and attaching points.
  4. Ford recommends replacing the entire arm. When you press the BJ out, you enlarge the hole slightly. I did read about 1 guy who had the BJ pull through the A-arm late down the road.

    Many guys have done it with no issue however.

  5. Yep we know Ford "recommends" replacing the A arm, but countless people have simply replaced the BJ. The moog one has slightly larger taper and that is why I said you can do it once an an A arm. If you hog out the hole when removing the old BJ you are screwed. Also if you are good at welding you can tack the new one in just for an extra measure of safety but I think thats overkill. Sure wish some vendor would pick up the slack and make a repop A arm.
  6. I just did the same thing last year but used Bullit springs. I rented a press from O'Rielys and pressed the old ones out. I tried several times to press the new Moog ball joints in but could not get them to go in straight.

    I ended up taking my control arms and ball joints to a Pep Boys close to work. I dropped them off at lunch and they were ready to go by the time I was on my way home. i think it cost $70 and it was well worth it.
  7. a little finger smear of grease goes a long way when pressing them in

    Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
  8. I tried to replace my ball joints, as one was squeaking really bad. I rented the press and got one out, but when pressing the new one in, it fell right out.
    So i busted the A arm because I made the hole bigger. Which sucked. So I bought AJE racings replacement arms from LMR with the spring cups, and
    after too much time spent and not enough knowledge, they fit just fine.

    I talked to many people, and every one of them advised against welding new ones in. The reason is this:

    You are welding two different types (different alloys most likely) and two different thicknesses of metal together. You will have to heat the thicker
    up more than the thinner, which can cause strength issues in the arm, which is stamped steel, and the thinner. Even if you have a great welder do it,
    it still isn't as "safe" to have it done correctly. IMO, I wouldn't have them welded.

    If you can save the old A arms, then gold star for you, I broke mine and it cost me $400 for new ones. But now my entire front end is new. I can certainly feel the difference. Plus I lost 16lbs up front because of the new arms. take that how you will.

    Overall, even though I had to spent the extra money, and at the time that sucked, but I'm glad I have new arms, and ball joint with grease fittings.