Progress Thread 92 Coupe Resurrection Thread

Just make sure that the oreilly controller will handle the load of the fans.

My car still gets hot sometimes. I have giant fans, giant radiator, and a new water pump. Wonder if my t stat is bad too?

Possibly. I can say I'll likely have to rethink my stat choice. The 180 with the 3 core rad, dual fans runs about 170 without the ac. I've not driven it with the ac on but imagine it might creep up to 180 at the most. Seems I overkilled my cooling system. :)
 
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I didn't get many pics of the work completed.

Here is a shot of the fans/rad before we installed them.
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The bearded wonder is my buddy from Dallas. He was up (brought me a lot of parts, he is thinning out his collection). He also picked up a VERY nice t-top car freshly painted to take back home for a coyote swap.

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So for anyone who has a 3g alternator.

My stock dummy gauge fluctuates still. I was concerned enough that I took apart all the looms to ensure I had no loose connections etc. All checked out. Cold engine, at idle the alt puts out 14.4 at both post on the back and verified on the battery as well. Turn on all accessories, all remains 14.3-14.5 as it should.

If I drive the car around for say an hour the gauge slowly creeps and bounces some more. Last night once I got back from the test drive I checked the post and it was 13.9 (same on battery). No dimming per say or any odd items (both fans were running, lights on, but no blower motor/ac.). I am slightly concerned that my brand new late model restoration 3g alt isn't putting out the power it should. Or maybe I'm just being paranoid due to everything else we've done to the car ends up having new parts fail. I wish I would have taken a measurement with the ac/blower running as I expect it would have put me in the 13.5-13.7 range (IIRC my measurements from when we first installed it).

I will go ahead and admit I did NOT add any more ground and didn't last night initially. I've got the cable and will run it from the motor mount to a sway bar mount. Would insufficient grounding cause some output fluctuations like this? (Spare me the lecture I know I need a bigger one since my power wire is bigger).
 
I didn't get many pics of the work completed.

Here is a shot of the fans/rad before we installed them.
6605F26E-040B-490A-B2E4-827C5F6365A6_zpssfmaboge.jpg

The bearded wonder is my buddy from Dallas. He was up (brought me a lot of parts, he is thinning out his collection). He also picked up a VERY nice t-top car freshly painted to take back home for a coyote swap.

3D6F83BC-649C-44CD-B5A4-60EA8FD22802_zpscfqm73f3.jpg
Ohh look who's having a problem w/ pictures.......That makes three of us.

Photobucket has some sort of problem w/ this forum squeak. ( Or, more likely, this forum has a problem w/ photobucket) It obviously doesn't happen all the time, but on the pics like the one above that doesn't post properly, you can try and use the IMG link, and just copy and paste that b itch directly into your post.
 

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I used the same img link I always do Mike. I agree that photobucket and this forum don't always get along. I can link that same pic any number of places but from time to time they won't work on here. I read those other threads about the same issue but none of the explanations mean anything to me (I can point an click computers but no diagnostic ability here).

take 2 on the pic.
3D6F83BC-649C-44CD-B5A4-60EA8FD22802_zpscfqm73f3.jpg


EDIT: It's seems to be only certain pics. No matter how many times you attach them via the IMG link, they still won't work.
 
I used the same img link I always do Mike. I agree that photobucket and this forum don't always get along. I can link that same pic any number of places but from time to time they won't work on here. I read those other threads about the same issue but none of the explanations mean anything to me (I can point an click computers but no diagnostic ability here).

take 2 on the pic.
3D6F83BC-649C-44CD-B5A4-60EA8FD22802_zpscfqm73f3.jpg


EDIT: It's seems to be only certain pics. No matter how many times you attach them via the IMG link, they still won't work.
Yeah, I tried to attach that image myself,........no worky. Just got the same "attached image" at the bottom of the page I have been getting now for several weeks.
 
I know I can do that Hoopty. If I have a file that I "really" want on here I'll use that link. I dump all my pics from my phone into photo bucket albums (then delete off my tiny 8 gig iPhone) for later reference. I've taken more pics of this car build than my second daughter (don't worry, my wife has taken plenty for the next 10 years lol).

Anyway, back to the 3G question above. What should I be seeing as reference for volts at the post and batt when it's charging? I've read a TON of threads and haven't found the smoking gun answer yet. (likely missed it I'm sure).
 
Waiting to install are a new(used) short block that will get: 3 bar GT40 heads (with new springs, valve job/seals, pedastool roller rockers), F cam, 96 explorer intake, Accufab 70MM TB/Spacer, 75 MM Pro M Maf w/24# injectors, CAI, head studs, new oil pump, arp oil pump drive shaft, new balancer, new motor mounts/trans mount. Full T-5 swap with aluminum drive shaft. We also plan on doing 3.73 gears with a new clutch pak (once we remove them from Bob's cobra and reinstall the 3.31's we just took out lol).
This should make for an awesome combo to drive on the street. Plenty of power under the curve and very reliable. We will work on the suspension sometime next year too (rear control arms etc).
The plan is to slowly build the motor/etc over the fall/winter. My goal is to be dropping it in Feb/March of next year. We will also need to repaint the engine bay and replace one side of the sheet metal since it was previously cut for turbo piping.
 
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I use the same IMG code provided by photobucket, but I remove the URL code that comes along with it. I've never had problems posting photos like y'all do. Maybe try removing the URL code like I do?
 
Thanks!

I got a hair up my tail end and decided to run it over to the exhaust shop to have the tail pipes finish welded in. We were able to get them lined up much better and they sit like they should now. We ended up having to cut the tip hanger on the passenger side and re weld it to get them close. And no, for some reason I did NOT snap a pic while it was on the lift... I'm a failure apparently. :)

No more banging the mufflers off the subframe rail anymore. woot woot.

On a side note, hot day, in traffic with the AC blasting ice cold, it's NICE to see the car sit dead on at 180. I still think a 195 is the best choice for this combo but I'm not too worried about it at this point. I will have to put some thought into what I want to run on the new gt40 combo. Likely just rock the 180 again and deal with it (I'm assuming I can have the car tuned to compensate for this).
 
Oh and the car has come a LONG ways in two months from this:
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To THIS:
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Man, I've got to get some real pics of it here soon. I'm tired of pimping it out of my garage and driveway. :) First up, clay bar, buff and wax job.
 
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I've been busy. I finally got the rear seat material installed. It still has some "out of the box" wrinkles on it. They have mostly worked out since this pic. I'm not overly thrilled with the fitment of the material. It seems corners that are round on the factory seat seem to be made more "square" with the material. No worries. It looks a million times better than a cigarette burned and faded black cloth (my fronts are leather).

Old seats removed.
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Notice the top of back portion is faded horribly.
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New lower material installed (PITA)
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I also rehabbed some truck panels as my car had nothing in there before.

Notice the vert piece hiding the unsightly rear seat backing brace/etc.
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