93 Few Interior issues - locks, windows, lighter, console lid

stangone50

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Mar 21, 2016
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Hey guys This is for a 93 GT hatch with 37k.
Console lid - Im not sure whats goin on but it opens and closes. The problem it seems like the lid is set a bit too far back and I have to push it forward while I hold the button to open it.
Do I have to unscrew the lid and mess with the alignment or something?

Power window - Its the passenger window. Passenger side switch works fine. On drivers side when i try to put up the passenger window, it will randomly stop until I let go of the switch and press it again.

Door lock - The drivers side switch works to lock and unlock both doors. My alarm remote works to lock and unlock both doors. The passenger side switch will not unlock and will lock sometimes. I can hear it trying to lock but unlock seems dead, no sound.

Lighter - It works but I need to hold it in. Tried with another lighter and same thing. It wont stay in till its hot then pop out like it should, I have to hold it for it to get hot. Fuse looked ok but had a small crack in the housing. Replaced fuse, same issue.

Thanks guys
 
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stangone50

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So I got the console lid working again. Seems like it needed adjusting and is just out of alignment for some reason. It was like I had to tighten the screws while pulling the lid away so it would be more forward when it closed. Its close to 1/4 inch away from where it wants to naturally sit. I wonder if I am missing a bushing or shim?

I pulled all the door switches. They all look brand new on the connection side. I hit them with a wire brush and put them back in. The window seems to be working again with both switches. The passenger side lock/unlock button is still not working and I also noticed the print is worn which is odd, maybe it was replaced before, idk.
I am assuming since the driver side switch that controls the passenger side works and all locks work with my alarm remote that it is just the switch...anyone agree with this?

For the lighter I think I had the wrong lighter in there. I had an extra one and noticed the sleeve part was longer than the one I had in there and it worked normally.
 
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Olivethefet

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Is this an aftermarket alarm? This is a 93 right? Windows and locks can be a pain. Your lock issues could just be the switch. There is a lot of info on here about the wiring and how to check it. I had to replace the after market alarm in my car and it kicked my butt! I burned up at least one switch.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Sounds like you got a handle on some of it at least. As for the response time, give it a minute, we have members all across the country so time zones are in play.
Veryuseful.com for wiring diagrams. Check power coming into the switch and then out is the place to start.
 

stangone50

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Hey guys thanks!
I am pretty sure its a factory alarm, the car has only 37K and yes 1993 GT.
I can fix/replace it if I know whats the problem but I dont know how to test/diagnosis.
 

Olivethefet

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I wasn't sure if it was factory, and couldn't remember when/if the Foxes came with an alarm from the factory. I would guess even the factory would use relays like an aftermarket just integrated better into the wiring harness. Here is a post from my thread where I was working on the door locks.

For anyone that is interested, this is what my issue was with wiring up the keyless entry and how I sorted it out. The first thing you have to do is locate the door lock wiring harness behind the drives side kick panel. I've seen in at least one other post where someone was able to dig the wires out by removing the dash speaker on the drivers side. I had my dash off to work on the heater core and AC evaporator, so the wires were right there easy to get to. My car has been through a lot in the past, so there is some sketchy wiring in a few places. It already had keyless entry installed in it at one point, but all that was removed. The wires were already cut so I didn't have to worry about cutting them or not. This is a picture showing the wiring harness you are looking for.

576644-3cbc9df96d3abc315760a7ed22eff57b.jpg


The wires you will need to cut into are the pink/light gray(lock) and pink/yellow(unlock). My wires were already cut so it narrowed the search down. Just to verify things I stuck a needle into the wire first so that I could use a multi-meter to check for continuity then to verify voltage when you hit the lock unlock button. I didn't take a picture of that. These are the wires that you need to cut or tie into.

576645-d98ce5d1318d670a56dc9c60227f8bca.png


This is how the relays need to be wired up.
1551812172352-png.png

In this diagram the pink/light gray wire is represented by the green wire and the pink/yellow wire is represented by the pink wire. Terminal 87 needs to be able to carry the load of the circuit when energized. It needs to be a decent gauge wire, I used 14 gauge, and it needs to be fused. I used a 14 amp fuse. If you wire terminals 30 and 87a backwards you will create a dead short and, if you are using a fuse, blow the fuse or if you are not using a fuse you will burn up the switch and possibly the lock actuator solenoid.

576648-994dc3fcb755a9c5b8ee85065ac1e05e.png

The previous owner already had one of those clamp on jumpers attached further down in the wiring harness on the black/white wire. This wire is always hot when the battery is connected. The connection looked good so I went ahead and used it to supply voltage to both 87 terminals and 85 and 86. You'll have to look at how the outputs work on your keyless entry to determine if it is sending a negative signal or positive signal. I think most will provide either signal depending on how you decide to use it. In my case I used the negative signal, so terminal 85 on the unlock relay receives a negative signal from the keyless entry to trigger the relay. Terminal 86 receives a negative signal on the lock relay. This wiring diagram is specific for a keyless entry sending a negitive trigger signal. If you are using a unit that is sending a positive trigger signal you will have to wire it up a little different. If you need that wiring diagram just send me a message or you can find it on "the 12 Volt" I am running power to the keyless entry receiver from a different source. Its coming off the brake light relay and has a 7.5 amp fuse on it.

I think I covered all the bases. Hopefully this will help someone down the road. My car is a 92 other year models might use different color wires.
This is the first post on page 7 of my thread. If you go back to page 6 you can read about how I screwed up and fried a switch or two.


If your car has a factory alarm all this info might be irrelevant. Also, 93 might be slightly different. Take this info with a grain of salt! Good luck.

The guys over here:

https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/multiple-wire-car-door-locks.asp#5w

Were a lot of help with trouble shooting the electrical.

Here is a wiring diagram. It helped me, but it doesn't have anything on it about the factory alarm.

1573596677834.png
 

stangone50

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Mar 21, 2016
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I hope you can get the issues figured out, wiring can be a pain. Got any pictures of your car? I would love to see it.

Thanks

Chris
Hey sure I got tons of pics! Heres a couple...
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This car has only 37K, pretty much all stock. I have subframe connectors, bassani x pipe, mac mufflers and a tilt steering wheel conversion. The rest is stock! The interior is clean af. Only the drivers seat has some wear. The rear leather seats look like they have never been sat in!
I may hit up the junkyard and grab a switch and see if it works. I suck at diagnosing but Im assuming that since the driver side works and it works with the alarm, it cant be the motor or actuator.
 

stangone50

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I have another question guys about my thermostat. I replaced my water pump cuz I had a leak in the gasket. I barely drive the car but sometimes I notice the temp needle goes pretty high like close to 235 then back down around 200. It never over heated but the needle gets high enough to make me concerned. Usually I go on short drives and it stays cool under 200 and the needle does not move. But it can happen on hot summer days here in myrtle beach and when it happens the needle just seems all over the place. It gets hot then cools, then gets hot until it kinda steadies around 200. When I refilled it Im sure I let it run for a while till the thermostat opened then I added coolant as needed. I have no leaks. Oil is clean and coolant is clean and full. I put a 180 thermostat in but I did not drill a hole in it like the stock 195 thermostat had. Should I put a new 195 in it and drill the hole this time or just drill the hole in the 180?
 

stangone50

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Mar 21, 2016
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I think I got everything sorted out now.
Pulled a door lock switch from an old f150 at the junkyard, not sure of the year but same switch and it worked! I got it for 7 bucks, cant believe new oem these switches are close to 50 bucks!

I guess this thread is done. Mods can lock it up, unless someone has an answer about the thermostat.
Thanks guys!
 
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91TwighlightGT

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Based on your description, I would lean more towards a restricted radiator (your car being low mileage, it could be really full of crud in the radiator if it is original and the coolant wasn't regularly changed) or possibly a fan issue. Check the plastic fan for cracks, as well as make sure that there isn't damage to the shroud.

Does the overheating happen at idle, at speed, or all the time?
 

stangone50

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Mar 21, 2016
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Based on your description, I would lean more towards a restricted radiator (your car being low mileage, it could be really full of crud in the radiator if it is original and the coolant wasn't regularly changed) or possibly a fan issue. Check the plastic fan for cracks, as well as make sure that there isn't damage to the shroud.

Does the overheating happen at idle, at speed, or all the time?
I did a coolant flush a couple years ago. The over flow container did have some crud built up at the bottom. The fan and shroud are good, I will check the fuse. It happens just driving around town if its really hot maybe after 15 minutes or so. I never drive it for more than 20 minutes and usually around 45 mph as thats the speed limit around here. It usually settles around 200 after it jumps up but I feel like thats even high and the needle should stay under the 200/half way point, idk. I dont drive it much and it only happened a couple times that I remember, I need to really pay attention next time.

One time about 5 years ago the car died on a really hot day and wouldnt turn back on for like an hour, then never happened again. It just does not like to drive in the heat it seems and it sucks cuz Id like to take it out more in the summer without having to worry about this stuff.
 

91TwighlightGT

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It is probably worth it to check it with an infrared temperature gun. The factory gauge isn't exactly the most reliable thing and it's very possible that the car is running in the normal range. I would also test the fan clutch to make sure it is working properly.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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Do yourself a favor and install a aftermarket gauge. You can install it under the dash if you don't want to poke holes in the dash or get a gauge pillar pod.