93 mustang convertible 331 and turbo

[oldno7]

Was wondering if this blue print motor would work good with a on3 turbo kit

Specifications

• Brand: BluePrint Engines
• Part Number: BP3313CTF
• 375 HP / 405 FT LBS
• 9.5:1 Compression Ratio

Block
Hand picked seasoned block
Square and parallel decked
Align honed main bearing bore
Cylinders honed on computer controlled machine to within .0002 straightness and roundness
Cylinders are sonic tested for thickness
2-bolt main
4.000" Bored .040" over
1-piece rear main seal
Rotating Assembly
New BluePrint cast steel crankshaft
3.250" stroke
Forged I-beam 5.400" connecting rods
Hypereutectic pistons
28oz external balance
Cylinder Heads
BluePrint Aluminum Cylinder Heads- HP9008
60cc chamber
2.02" intake/ 1.60" exhaust valves
190cc intake/65cc exhaust runners
Camshaft
Roller
.543 Intake .554 Exhuast
218 Intake / 226 Exhaust duration
@ .050 - 112 degree LSA

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I ran Marshall blueprint engines through Bing and you will not be happy with the complaints that came up. The engine I bought had poorly knurled valve guides, and used a lot of oil, producing smoke in that pattern. They blamed it on the carb (the oil was not diluted!) and had the mechanic put new rings in. The carb was not flooding, it still smoked oil, and I did not get my money back. Then the oil pump shaft twisted like a piece of licorice on the way home from the re ring. Here is another complaint of many. I do not know how they have a good BBB rating.

https://www.ripoffreport.com/report...ty-engine-twice-and-inspection-dept-co-325061

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

It's a hypereutectic piston. Probably with a ring set gapped for a N/A configuration.

Hyper eutectic pistons are used because they grow very little in the bore when they get hot. Consequently, that allows the builder to set the piston skirt clearances fairly tight when they finish hone the engine. The benefit to you is the piston is much more quiet in its normal day to day operation, and less piston rock in the bores......which equates to longer cylinder life/less overall wear. So in the application they are spec'd in, a good fit.

When a power adder enters the picture, ( nitrous/turbo/sc) that all goes to hell in a hand basket.

The piston is brittle. It doesn't tolerate pinging or detonation.......at all.

The ring set won't tolerate the additional heat either. As you add boost, the piston gets exposed to more heat ( the byproduct of more power) if there isn't sufficient ring end gap to allow for the commensurate expansion that will happen to the ring when exposed to that heat,......the ring ends butt.

And can literally cut the top ring land right off of that hypereutectic piston.

When you look for an engine suitable for boost, the piston is what matters most. It is what gets exposed to the additional cylinder pressure and heat that comes with a boosted engine. You'll want a forged piston.

And all forged pistons are not created equal. There is a true forged 2618 alloy piston, and a 4031 alloy piston. A 4031 alloy is what you'll typically find in most crate engines listing the piston as forged. A 2618 alloy is what you'll typically get when you order a custom "race" piston. It's typically the strongest and most forgiving alloy with regard to how well it will tolerate heat and the abuses that may occur as you tune the engine for boost.

But it grows a lot in the bore, and that requires a lot of cylinder wall clearance, and that excessive clearance means a noisy piston.

( ask me how I know that)

Don't be afraid of the 4031 alloy. It runs tighter,..it's quieter,...and more than adequate for all but the highest power builds.

 

[JD1964]

If you're planning on anything near 500 rwhp, the stock blocks are sketchy. That's about their limit before they split. A stock 351 block can handle more like 750. An aftermarket Dart block would be a good start too.

 

[JD1964]

Another thing. If your plans include boost, chill out on the ridiculous high lift cams. Boost don’t care about high lift. It’s jamming the air in there anyway.

 

[oldno7]

Where is a good place to get a motor set up for boost. That won’t leave me broke

 

[General karthief]

No such a place.

 

[oldno7]

Would this one work better

347 Ford Stroker

-Professionally prepped 302 Ford block
-Thermo cleaned
-Magnafluxed for cracks
-Bored 90 degrees off mains
-Square decked 90 degrees off mains
-Block clearanced for stroker
-Align honed
-Honed to size on a CV616 Sunnen hone
-New cam bearings and stainless steel freeze plugs installed
-Your choice of color no extra charge
-Cast steel 3.400 stroker crank (Eagle or Scat)
-Scat 5140 I-Beam rods with ARP bolts
-Forged pistons
-New moly rings
-New Clevite rod and main bearings
-New Competition Cams Thumper Cam installed 35-600-4 (227/241 @ .050, 490/475 Lift) (Other Cam options available)
-New Lifters
-True roller timing set
-Timing cover installed
-New degreed harmonic balancer installed
-Complete oiling system with new pan (front or rear sump)
-Balanced, blueprinted and fully assembled
-Edelbrock E-HP Force heads made in the USA with 170 cc intake runners installed
-Hi-performance head bolts
-Fel pro gaskets used on complete engine
-Competition Cams full roller rockers

 

[90sickfox]

Sounds decent. With a bloated engine you really don't need as much strike as a 347. My engine is a 331. If I knew what I know now I would've built a performance block with bigger bore and less stroke. Then I could crack up the boost.

Forced induction is today's replacement for displacement. More boost = more power.... plus 13psi sounds way better than 5psi