93 Mustang Fuel Pressure Question

[93gtmustang]

I was changing my spark plugs and noticed that the plugs from cylinder 4 and 5 where a little white in color. It may be a little lean.

I have my fuel pressure set at 40 psi with vac. off.

How much more should I bring up the fuel pressure to correct it?

I've read that the computer will scale back the injector duty cycle if the pressure is too high.

Is there anyone running a similiar set up as what I have below.

Any help would be great

Thanks





1993 GT Mustang / Ford Racing GT-40 Crate Motor B-303 Cam / 24 lb. Injectors / Stock Ignition / MSD EFI Blaster Coil / Edelbrock 5.0 Upper and Lower Intake with BBK Phelonic Spacer / Professional Products 70mm Throttle Body / C&L C.A.I. w/76mm MAF / Stock Air Box w/K&N Panel Filter / Holley Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator / Electric Fan / BBK Underdrive Pulley's / A.C. Removed / BBK Short Headers / Flowmaster Exhaust / Tremec T-5Z / B&M Short Throw Shifter / Alum. Driveshaft / 4.30 Gears / Detroit Locker / Moser 31 Spline Axles/ Subframe Connectors / Line Lock / Driveshaft Loop / BMR Upper and Lower Control Arms / Lakewood Adjustable Drag Shocks/ Holley 190 lph Fuel Pump /

 

[93gtmustang]

anyone?

 

[jrichker]

Plug color in EFI engine cars can be misleading. The computer runs the engine right up next to the lean boundry to reduce emissions and increae fuel mileage. Spark plugs may show a white insulator and the cruse fuel mixture still be good.

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.